Nock left on RH bow

[Wudstix]

Nock left on right hand bow is weak or stiff spine?
 

[1/4 away]

Spine is too stiff.

[The Whittler]

Weak

[Pine]

Weak

Most definitely. 

[bowmaster12]

 Nock left right handed shooter indicates weak spine

[Wudstix]

Backing down front end weight or longer shaft would fix that.
 

[Wudstix]

Dropped 75 grains of point weight and it helped, shot another arrow 5/8" longer and dropped another 25 grains seemed to get it flying straight, perhaps with a tad nock high. That could be release since I was rushing it this evening. Think adding another 1/4" to arrow length will be the ticket.  These are 2219 and add @50+ grains over woodies which gets me a smidge over 10 gpp.  Quiet!!!
 

[Archie]

Your arrows are weak.

Longer shafts make spine weaker, as there is more leverage for the tip to bend the arrow. 

[Wudstix]

The lighter points and longer arrow brought the bare shaft arrows more in line (?)
 

[McDave]

The lighter points and longer arrow brought the bare shaft arrows more in line (?)
 

The lighter points and longer arrow work in opposite directions, as lighter point increases spine, while longer shaft decreases spine.  Maybe you’ll hit the magic balance between the two, but it would seem easier to me to work on one or the other.

[Archie]

I remember having problems years ago, and someone I respected said that if you are shooting fairly close to your target, it can skew your results.  In effect, in this case a stiff arrow looks weak because the arrow has snapped in the opposite direction and hasn't had a chance to snap back yet during the paradox process.  It made sense, and when I moved back to about 20 paces, I was able to tune my bow effectively.  If I remember correctly, that was my problem.

[Wudstix]

I'm shooting at 15-17 yards.  I dropped point weight until I got close and then adjusted arrow length a tad.
 

[Kokopelli]

Couple of questions ................ ????
(1) What is the draw weight of your bow @ 28" ??
(2) What is the draw weight of your bow at your draw length ??
(3) What is your draw length ??
(4) How long are your arrows ??
(5) Are you testing fletched or bare shafts ??
(6) If bare shafts, have you added a few glue lines in the fletch area to compensate for the weight of the fletch ??
(7) Do you shoot with a canted bow ?? If so, the tuning charts would need to be tilted to match the cant.
(8) Could the material you're shooting into affect how the arrow acts ??
(9) Are your results consistent day to day ?? Hard to tune if you're having a 'bad day'.

You mentioned 2219s. That's a fine arrow for a heavy poundage bow. My first impression is that it might be a bit stiff.

[Archie]

I have never worried about how much my glue weighs.  I doubt that most of us have the shooting form and release that is good enough and consistent enough to make a few grains matter.  If it did, the dirt picked up on our arrows while stump  shooting, or rain-soaked fletchings, would be an issue.

Heavier tips, longer draws, and longer shafts weaken spine.  The opposite makes arrows stiffer. 

And since everyone's release varies, you may dial in with different specs than another guy with the exact same arrows you have.  Ken Beck's video on bare shaft tuning was very helpful to me.  Black Widow sells it.

[Roy from Pa]

[Kokopelli]

Archie, Greetings from Arizona.
The point that I was making is that the fletch weighs aprox. 10 to 15 grains. Removing it to shoot a bare shaft can change the f.o.c. balance slightly and possibly affect the spine.
Adding lines of glue / weight to the fletch area eliminates the possibility of a couple of variables.   

[Wudstix]

McDave, there were a couple steps I didn't elaborate on.  Dropped point weight then added 1/4".


67# @28"
66+#@27 3/8"
Arrow 29 1/4"
Bare shaft
Duct wrap to simulate fletch
Shooting into worn out foam block target with added foam behind to prevent pass through.


Plan to four fletch 2219 at 29 1/4-1/2" with 190 grain VPA head.

[Kokopelli]

Wudstix;
It sounds like you should be pretty close. With that poundage, 2219s should be hitting like Thor's Hammer.
Just for yucks & giggles you might try putting on a 125 grain point to see if bare shafts get better or worse.
Another thing to look at is if your bow is center-shot or not. If it's not you might need a weaker spine to snake around the sight window.
Tuning can cause madness sometimes. I have a Howatt Hunter 70# @28 that sends 2213s w/125 grain points out like lasers at my 27 3/4" draw. Go figure.......... Took a while to figure that one out. 

Good luck !!!

[Wudstix]

The Science of traditional archery is fun.  Working on my PhD!!!  I know what point weight I want/have and what poundage arrows I need, just trying to get a back-up set of aluminum for my woodies.  2315
fly good for building muscle tone, but prefer 22- size for aluminum shafts.  These will keep my arrow weight under 700ish grains. 
 

[Wudstix]

Did it again and with set of heavy Hickory arrows.  Starting at 32 1/2" 90-95# nock left and nose down with 190 grain Ribtek.  Trimmed the taper off three times to get at 30 1/8".  Still a slight tail wiggle at 10 yards, but straight in target.  May trim 1/8" at a time to get fine tuned.  Right now at 863 grains and 12.96 gpp.
    Hitting like Thor's hammer!