Tuning help

[Petrichor]

Definitely not 400. My 50 lb shoots 400 with 200 up front. 600 is right and I would quit bareshafting. I’d switch to slow mo video or paper tune.

[Roy from Pa]

BARE SHAFT PLANING

Somehow, bad information has been passed down from archer to archer for many years on the correct method to bare shaft tune. Some might be familiar with or heard of a technique of bare shaft testing that requires getting close to your target and analyzing nock left/right/up/down patterns for tuning purposes; That is not a good method and causes great confusion! Bare shafts sticking in a target at an angle or flying through the air sideways can be caused by shooter as well as equipment and you can not tell the difference reliably. The correct way is bare shaft "planing"; Determining adjustments based on bare shaft groups in relation to identical fletched shafts at longer distances. A fletched shaft always goes close to where it's pointed, bare shafts or wide broadheads will not. So, by "reading" the relationship between bare shafts or wide broadheads we can fix tuning issues while not allowing form issues to confuse us.

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

[Petrichor]

BARE SHAFT PLANING

Somehow, bad information has been passed down from archer to archer for many years on the correct method to bare shaft tune. Some might be familiar with or heard of a technique of bare shaft testing that requires getting close to your target and analyzing nock left/right/up/down patterns for tuning purposes; That is not a good method and causes great confusion! Bare shafts sticking in a target at an angle or flying through the air sideways can be caused by shooter as well as equipment and you can not tell the difference reliably. The correct way is bare shaft "planing"; Determining adjustments based on bare shaft groups in relation to identical fletched shafts at longer distances. A fletched shaft always goes close to where it's pointed, bare shafts or wide broadheads will not. So, by "reading" the relationship between bare shafts or wide broadheads we can fix tuning issues while not allowing form issues to confuse us.

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

This! Although I have moved away from this method also. But this is the way to do it. And for the love of god. Please don’t try bareshafting a broad head. Results could be epic.

[GCook]

That's my final test when bare shaft tuning.  I start at 10 or 12 yards and when I get close back to 20.  When I'm pretty confident, bare shafts and fletched shafts hitting same point impact and bare shaft flight is straight the final test is broadhead flight. 
IMO if your form or release are so inconsistent you can't tell the difference  between a bad release and bad arrow flight then you are not ready to bare shaft tune or hunt anyway.

[Bamaguy2522]

Roy, they helped a lot. Thanks again!

[flntknp17]

I always recommend people who are really serious about tuning watch some reputable videos or read some books on the way olympic archers tune their recurves....sure they use sights, but that it irrelevant to tuning; it's still a recurve with an arrow and finger release.  A well-tuned olympic bow will shoot fletched and bare shaft arrows exactly the same all the way to 90 meters.....the fletch is really there for stability in wind or on a poor release.  As was mentioned above, a good method is shooting groups with fletched and unfletched arrows at longer distances and observing the results.  I always recommend "The Simple Art of Winning" by Rick McKinney as a good book for this sort of thing.

Matt

[Roy from Pa]

 

[BigJim]

I didn't notice it mentioned or asked anywhere, but I did see where you said you shot three under....


ARE you using two nock points?  One under the arrow and one above with about a 1/16" play so they don't pinch the arrow at full draw?  This alone has solved more issues for customers of mine than most any other thing!
Now, if your arrow nocks are too tight on the string, this can be a mute point.

I would say that a 600 spine arrow is the correct spine and about 100-125 grains up front or whatever makes you happy. Overall length is something that should be tuned from personal observation.

Charts are ok if you "really" know what you are doing. I find that most might have fair or even good information, but few "really" know. Draw lengths are often exaggerated even if not intentional.  A static measurement means little. So often we change what we are doing when actually shooting and again when tuning.

Arrows kicking to the left for a right hander are most likely too stiff and not too weak especially the lighter the weight of the bow. The arrow tries to kick to the right, but hits the bow on the way by and kicks back to the left..

None of this means anything if your arrow is striking your bow because you are only using one nock point!

BigJim