So ya all want a BBO build?

[Longcruise]

Aaaaaaaargh... I been hacked!! 

[Roy from Pa]

Looks like ya gots ah virus, Mike 

[Longcruise]

You guys ARE a virus!   

[Mad Max]

You guys ARE a virus!   

 

[Flem]

Holy Crap it's like pulling teeth to get a straight answer! Had to go to another thread to get it.
Looks like you loose 1-1.5" from the form to shot in.

Hope that wasn't your last tooth

[Roy from Pa]

Remember it's a wooden bow, not glass.

[Flem]

Remember it's a wooden bow, not glass.

Got it. Just wanted some perspective.

[Roy from Pa]

Started with 2.5 should end up 1.5.

[Pat B]

...and adding more reflex can be counterproductive by over straining the wood just getting to brace.

[Roy from Pa]

Yup Pat, too much reflex can cause problems...

I backed off a little on this bow.

[Pat B]

I use pieces of 2x4 on edge to raise the tips so just off the form comes out about 2 1/2" to 3" of reflex and after shoot in I usually get 1"+ to flat profile, sometimes a bit more depending how aggressive I get with the tillering.

[Roy from Pa]

That's about how mine work out too.

I've found that more reflex over 3 inches just causes more headaches when tillering.

[Mad Max]

Good info Guy's

[oldandslow]

How do flatten your Bamboo, Roy?

I run it through my drum sander.

All I want is a flat surface to layout my bows pattern.

The nodes hardly affect the flattening process.

Then after I cut out the boo to the bows shape, I then taper the boo thickness to 1/8th at riser to 1/16th at the tips with my edge sander and a toothing plane. That's how I get the boo backing to a flat tapered surface.

Is the bamboo backing 1.75 at the widest point?
And what does it taper to at the tip?
Thanks

[mmattockx]

Is the bamboo backing 1.75 at the widest point?
And what does it taper to at the tip?
Thanks

A ways back Roy said they are 5/8" at glue up and he narrows them down to 1/2" or less during tillering.


Mark

[Roy from Pa]

Those were the measurements for the belly and core lam in the rough.

The bamboo backing is pre shaped/cut to the exact shape of the bow prior to glue up.

I don't have time right now to explain the layout of the boo. Xmas eve now.

If you look at the first pictures of the materials then look at the later pictures of the bow after it was cut out, you will understand then.

[kennym]

Ahh Santaroy , come on... 

[Roy from Pa]

Mark the center of the backing, whether it be boo or hickory or whatever.

Measure down 3/4" from that center line and mark that.

Measure up 2 inches from the 3/4" below center line for the arrow shelf " top of grip".

Measure down 2 inches from the 3/4" below center line for the "bottom of the grip."

That gives you a 4 inch grip area which I make 3/4" wide.

From the top and bottom of the 4" grip, measure out 2 inches, that will be the flare "widest part of the bow"

I make the flares 1 1/4" wide.

From the flares I do a straight taper to 1/2" wide at the tips.

These pictures are the best I have now, but they show you the outline of the riser area.

Disregard the yellow crossed out line, was prolly a brain fart back then:)

Oldandslow, that will be $19.99:)

[oldandslow]

Thanks. Merry Christmas!

[Roy from Pa]

 

Merry Xmas

I made up a bow pattern like above, out of 1/8th thick board and all I do is lay it on my backing and trace it out.

Do the same and use a lead pencil and trace out the outside of the stencil.

Keep working at it till you get it right.