So ya all want a BBO build?

[Roy from Pa]

OK. 64" tip to tip shooting for 45# @ 28" draw.
Here are the materials all ready for glue up.
Osage quarter sawn sister billets for the belly, 1/4" thickness parallel x 1.75 wide..
Maple core lams tapered from 3/16th" at riser to 1/16th" at tips x 1.75" wide.
The belly and core lams have been Z spliced together.
12.5" long Osage riser, 1 inch thick x 2" wide.
Buffalo horn tip overlays 1.75" long x 5/8th wide, tapered to a knife edge on the riser facing end.

[Roy from Pa]

Prior to glue up, I stack them together as they will be glued.
I run a weighted string end to end to get them straight.
Clamp them down straight and I drill 2 holes in the grip area of the riser and a hole on each side of the tips.
After glue is applied and lams all together, I push toothpicks into the holes, keeps everything aligned while clamping up.
When drilling the holes at the tips, I angle the drill bit away from the boo.
I lay a short piece of wooden arrow under the string so the string doesn't get interfered with by the nodes.

[Shredd]

     Git 'er done...  Enjoy your build..

[Flem]

Wow a how to on the bench! Go Roy

[mmattockx]

OK. 64" tip to tip shooting for 45# @ 28" draw.

Osage quarter sawn sister billets for the belly, 1/4" thickness parallel x 1.75 wide..

12.5" long Osage riser, 1 inch thick x 2" wide.

Awesome. I just want to say I am deeply jealous of all you guys down south with a good supply of osage. Nothing even remotely comparable up here and it all costs too much.


Mark

[Roy from Pa]

I wrap the bow in plastic wrap to keep the form clean.
I use a 3.75" high center post placed at the center of the bow.
I use 2.75" high mid limb posts, placed half way between the flares and end of tips.
I use 5" high end posts.
I first clamp the center post down, then do the 2 mid limb posts.
Then I affix the remaining clamps, alternating their direction.
I use 2 inch pieces of boo which is flattened on the top to protect the boo from damage from the clamps.
I also placed a lam pad under the belly for more clamp protection.
I run the clamps down snug, then tighten a tad more.
I use unibond 800 for glue up and I weigh the resin and hardener to a 1 to 12 ratio.
This bow is 1100 grains resin and 90 grains hardener.

[Roy from Pa]

I place the form in the drying box and the temp from two 75 watt bulbs keeps it at 90 degrees.
I let it in the box for 24 hours.
The form is 1" thick 6" wide 6 feet long hickory with 1" angle iron bolted to the sides.
Add the 30 some clamps and it's a bit heavy to lift into the box.
So the wife helps me:)

[Mad Max]

This is a old how to 
 

[Roy from Pa]

Maxi-boy, shut up ya old fart:)

You can change the amount of deflex / reflex by the position of the mid limb posts. Moving the mid limb posts closer to the riser yields more deflex and moving them farther out towards the tips yields less deflex. The more deflex you induce causes more of the limb to work. I have also used 6" high end posts. I just decided to go for 5" on this bow. With this form, you have plenty of options for whatever you want the bow to look like and perform, just by making different height posts or moving them either direction.

[Mad Max]

- ---------- -

[Bowjunkie]

Lookin good there pal.

[Roy from Pa]

Thanks Jeff.

Guys, Jeff is the one who taught me all of this.

His bows are awesome works of art.

Anything ya want to add Jeff just jump right in bro.

[Mad Max]

Pictures jeff

[Bowjunkie]

Ok. I'll try to keep an eye on ya. 

I'm going to be grinding some hickory this afternoon. Making some test bows and going to upgrade my tillering tree. Lots of testing in the coming weeks. Tiller/limb balance stuff.

[mmattockx]

The form is 1" thick 6" wide 6 feet long hickory with 1" angle iron bolted to the sides.
Add the 30 some clamps and it's a bit heavy to lift into the box.

I was just thinking to myself "how much does all that steel weigh?" and I got to this comment. I was thinking I must be a complete wimp for a second there.

Do you anchor the blocks to the form in any way or just let the clamps hold everything in place?

Looking good and I'm learning things already.


Mark

[Roy from Pa]

Let me know what ya do to the tree please:)

Those 3 long clamps holds everything down on the form.

I make them pretty snug.

[kennym]

Lookin good Mr Roy!

Jeff, did ya show him again on this one?   

[David Flanrey]

Looking good Roy.

[Roy from Pa]

Nock it off Sister McKenzie, go skin your doe:)

Thanks David.

Here is what I make for padding the back of the boo backing with so the clamps do not indent it.

You get any type of damage to the boo backing and it will prolly result in a failure.

I cut 2 inch pieces of bamboo, grind a little off the edges, then grind the back flat so the clamp doesn't slide off it.

[Mad Max]

That’s a pretty good drawing for someone from PA