My tree is setup, " those black vertical lines on wall ", replicate where my middle finger will be on the bow string when shooting. The line on the right is for split finger, line in the middle is for 3 under and line on the left is for if I want to setup for a fixed crawl nocking point. My pulley at the bottom can be moved to align with either of those 3 lines to keep straight downward pressure on the bow.
I assume my nocking point on the string is going to be set at 3/8th above the shelf, and that's how I set it on my bow string. I nock the arrow under that nocking point, an arrow nock is about 1/4" high, so I figured out where my middle finger will be and set the tree up according to that. So my bows are tillered for equal limb timing according to where I am going to hold the bow string.
People who just tiller a bow for the old 1/4" positive idea, then have to keep adjusting their nocking point to get the arrows to fly right up and down when tuning the bow. I never have to do that and the bow is tillered to shoot perfect from the start of tillering.
In the above video, that bow is being setup for shooting split finger. Notice the tree pull rope travels straight down the black line on the right. That tells me those limbs are bending exactly the same way, balanced! And when I shoot an arrow, those limbs hit brace at the exact same time. No hand shock, very little noise, and great accuracy.
Bingo....
Bow tillered for split finger.