So ya all want a BBO build?

[OldRawhide42]

I only make glass bows. But I am learning a lot here. A big thank you for doing this.

[Roy from Pa]

I'm learning a lot too, LOL.

 

[oldandslow]

Trying to picture the tiller process on a  glass bow...

[Buemaker]

Don’t mean to steal your thread, but here is one of mine with Osage belly kindly supplied by Roy.

[Buemaker]

Schmack, upside again. Have to stay on my head taking pics. I have figured it out now, but this is pics from some time ago.

[oldandslow]

Looks very nice.

I'm outta osage...need another belly wood.
Purple heart is easy to get.

[Mad Max]

Dang roy
sorry about that

[Pat B]

Roy, sometimes on these glue up a limb can take more reflex as wood is removed due to internal stresses. This situation can be hard to determine until you get there. We all have bows break or hinge or take set, sometimes our own fault, sometimes due to unseen anomalies. That is what keeps us coming back for more. The adventure of the unknown I guess.      
 Sorry for the losses guys but like George Tsoukalsa always says...if you ain't breaking them you ain't making them.

[Roy from Pa]

All fixed ya crazy Norwegian.. LOL
Thanks guys, it's all part of making wooden bows.

[mmattockx]

Don’t mean to steal your thread, but here is one of mine with Osage belly kindly supplied by Roy.

Is there a full draw shot of this one?


Mark

[Buemaker]

It is some time since this one was made, this pic was taken before finish sanding and I think I adjusted left limb a bit. Probably come out upside down.

[oldandslow]

Found some more Osage...let the misery begin...again

[Roy from Pa]

Nice, Bue.

Wade, see that curve the length of the bow?

That's what you are shooting for.

[Mad Max]

Trying to picture the tiller process on a  glass bow...

Glass bows are design, thickness taper and width taper.
If it's out of wack, you can sand the glass on one side or trap it (sand the corners from fade to tip 45*) on the strong limb

[oldandslow]

Nice, Bue.

Wade, see that curve the length of the bow?

That's what you are shooting for.

Was eyeing that up...got my next bow in the warmer now!👍

[Bvas]

But don't feel bad cause I lost mine too.

This is how that little wood stove gets so hot.

Sitting around the “bow shop” making firewood.   

[mmattockx]

It is some time since this one was made, this pic was taken before finish sanding and I think I adjusted left limb a bit. Probably come out upside down.

I find it interesting that all the R/D in the unstrung shape comes out when braced, usually you can see some of that original shape even when drawn.


Mark

[Roy from Pa]

LOL Bvass

Here we sit like birds in the wilderness waiting for Bvas to make a bow:)

 

Z splices look pretty good, core lam is gray elm, belly is Osage.

Used EA40 for glue.

[oldandslow]

Btw how hot would be too hot for a hotbox?
Been wondering that for a while...

[Mad Max]

This is from Binghams Archery---This is for curing EA-40 epoxy

Oven Curing Thermostat
Oven Curing Thermostat. It is vital that you cure your epoxy within a certain temperature range. For your riser and your bow, you need the strength and temperature resistance that a temperature cure can give you. We recommend 150-180F. For tip overlays, a 24 hour room temperature cure is sufficient. Our thermostat will cycle the lights to give you the proper temperature range that you need. In other words, for your bow to hold up under all temperature conditions, you need a heated cure. Try our thermostat. It is very reliable.

In conclusion, our oven curing thermostat is the best way to regulate the temperature that you need for your heat box cure. With our quality materials and many years of experience, we can help make your next project a success. Please think of us for your next project.