Does this seem right to you?

[PennDude]

I picked up an Obert Black Hunter off Amazon for a $100 because all of my other bows are 50# and I needed a 35# bow.  No regrets.  This Chinese bow shoots!  That being said, I used 3Rivers Spine Calculator to get my arrows in the ballpark for tuning.  What I found was 3Rivers Spine calculator was suggesting way too weak of an arrow.  What ended up bare shafting good for me were a GT Traditional 600 spine 29 1/4" long with a 75 grain point and a GT Traditional 500 spine 29 1/2" long with a 100 grain point. 

One would think that these would be way too stiff, especially since I draw 27".  What's the deal here?  I actually want to run more point weight with a longer arrow.  At this rate I'll have to drop down to a 340 spine and that's doesn't seem right at all given the 35# draw weight.

[Jon Stewart]

Unless you are stuck on carbons try 1916's

[kennym]

Seems way too stiff, you may be getting a false reading ...

If you still have the weak ones try a heavier point.

Maybe a test kit of arrows and points would help, you can always keep them after bare shafting, you know you will be setting up another bow... 

[Alexander Traditional]

I say what kennym said. I'm shooting 1916 out of 50 pound bows. I've never shot anything that light maybe an 800 spine shaft. Maybe someone that actually shoots that light will get in here.

[PennDude]

I’ve tried heavier points on both spines. I’m getting nock left with those heavier points.

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

You need to shoot a couple bare shafts along with a couple fletched shafts of the same arrows.

If the bare shafts group to the right of the fletched shafts, then they are too weak.

If the bare shafts group to the left, they are too stiff.

This is for a right hand shooter.

Shooting too stiff of an arrow can cause a "false weak" reactions because the nock of the arrow is hitting the side of the bow and kicking it to the left.

[Joedirt199]

What are you using for your side plate material? The bow is not cut to center so the weaker spine is needed to clear the riser. I kept thinking I was getting weak readings as I went higher up the spines but I think it was hitting the riser as it was noisy. I went to a thinner strike plate and it helped. I may look for a thin piece of leather to get as thin as possible.

[Yooper-traveler]

Penn, if it’s 35#@28” and you draw 27”, then it’s 32-33#.  Either way you are showing false.  in both my long bows and recurves that are anywhere from 33 to 35 pounds I’m running 1816 aluminum’s, and 700 to 800 spine carbons. 35-40# woodies also.  I also have a longer draw than you do. 

I don’t know if Lancaster sells single arrows anymore but you might check there to build your own test kit.  Big Jim’s dark timber are really a great arrow and it’s hard to beat that price. 

[supernaut]

Did you scale the bow to make sure the limbs were 35# @ 28"? I only ask because the limbs on the Black Hunter/Galaxy Embers are notorious for being off the marked poundage by a good bit at times. I ordered my Galaxy from Lancaster a couple years ago and had them check the poundage on the limbs for just that reason. Best of luck to you sir!

[PennDude]

I did a fair amount of point swapping in my arrow tuning process. I even put some 250 grain points on, and still saw better flight with the 75 and 100 grain points. My strike plate is some sort of synthetic fur that came with the bow. Maybe I need to put something thinner on there.

[PennDude]

Video I took yesterday with a fletched arrow. I can not detect any deflection as the arrow exits the bow. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tHkGlOEoOnU&feature=youtu.be&t=0m36s

[Joedirt199]

Yup get a weston spring scale and verify the pull weights of your bows. Since I got mine I have found a lot of my cheaper bows don't pull to marked weights. The scale comes pretty stiff so you have to break in the marker tab to move smoother. I also tied a 50 lb dumbell to it and bounced the weight on it for a while to smooth things out. Sprayed some silicon lube up in there and now it reads my dumbells and bar weights accurately. My 50# black hunter is actually pulling 45# at 27-28"

Heard the strike plate material they provide doesn't last long anyways, on the cheap side.

[McDave]

What ended up bare shafting good for me were a GT Traditional 600 spine 29 1/4" long with a 75 grain point and a GT Traditional 500 spine 29 1/2" long with a 100 grain point. 

One would think that these would be way too stiff, especially since I draw 27".  What's the deal here?  I actually want to run more point weight with a longer arrow.  At this rate I'll have to drop down to a 340 spine and that's doesn't seem right at all given the 35# draw weight.

Taking what you've written at face value, the .600 spine GT bare shafts good for you.  If something is bare shafting good, there is no false weak.  False weak happens when a shaft shows weak, not when it is bare shafting good.

My assumption is that you didn't buy the 35# bow to hunt with, so why are you worried about more point weight?  A 75 grain point is sufficient to provide a reasonable FOC for target use.

I would have guessed an .800 spine arrow would work better for 35#, but .600 is in the ball park.

The only suggestion I have is to use GT ultralight shafts rather than GT traditionals.  As long as you're using the bow for fun, why not have some fun with it?

[PennDude]

What ended up bare shafting good for me were a GT Traditional 600 spine 29 1/4" long with a 75 grain point and a GT Traditional 500 spine 29 1/2" long with a 100 grain point. 

One would think that these would be way too stiff, especially since I draw 27".  What's the deal here?  I actually want to run more point weight with a longer arrow.  At this rate I'll have to drop down to a 340 spine and that's doesn't seem right at all given the 35# draw weight.

Taking what you've written at face value, the .600 spine GT bare shafts good for you.  If something is bare shafting good, there is no false weak.  False weak happens when a shaft shows weak, not when it is bare shafting good.

My assumption is that you didn't buy the 35# bow to hunt with, so why are you worried about more point weight?  A 75 grain point is sufficient to provide a reasonable FOC for target use.

I would have guessed an .800 spine arrow would work better for 35#, but .600 is in the ball park.

The only suggestion I have is to use GT ultralight shafts rather than GT traditionals.  As long as you're using the bow for fun, why not have some fun with it?

I’m not “worried” about this and I’m certainly having fun. I just find it a little strange that this bow is bare shafting such a stiff arrow. Maybe there’s some user error here? I really don’t know. I’m just looking for answers. If I could get a heavy enough arrow to tune well with a single bevel 2 blade broadhead, I wouldn’t hesitate to hunt with this bow.

[Tomas Stieber]

Are you bare shaft tuning?

[McDave]

For one thing, if your draw length is 27”, you could cut your 29.25” arrows down to 28” - 28.5”, which should allow you to use a 125 or 150 grain point or broadhead, assuming you were in tune with 75 grains on a 29.25” shaft.

[PennDude]

For one thing, if your draw length is 27”, you could cut your 29.25” arrows down to 28” - 28.5”, which should allow you to use a 125 or 150 grain point or broadhead, assuming you were in tune with 75 grains on a 29.25” shaft.

Agreed. However I actually wanted to go with a longer shaft so my point is closer to point of impact.  So I may end up going with a 400 grain arrow in the future.

[McDave]

If you’re serious about hunting with it, you might consider putting a 20 yard fixed crawl on it. Then you could be point on at 20 yards (or whatever distance you picked) regardless of the arrow length or weight.