Thanks Mark. That would work well for a concave back.
I decided to shape the handle. I start with the lines marking out the center and outside of the 4" handle area. On the center line I draw a circle 1 1/4" in diameter and 2" out on either side of the center I draw a 7/8" circle. I then connect these circles with lines and out to the end of the fade at 1 1/2" wide. This outlines the handle.
with a #49 Nicholson and farriers rasp I start shaping.
as I'm working on and around the handle area I keep adding these reference lines to keep me on track
more shaping all around the handle.
While shaping the handle and fades I decided to shorten the fades from 4" to 3" to get a little more working limb.
Here is the bow as it stands now. This bow was built symmetrical but this pic doesn't show that.
I made a new string for the bow and braced her for her first sweat. Sweating, like exercising helps to set the tiller. I kept her braced for an hour and when unbraced she still held 1" of reflex. I still haven't determined top or bottom limb. As I shoot the bow in she will tell me what's up!
More to come...