Repairable? Lookin for opinions

[stan v]

Ok, I'm rethinking this thing.  TY!!!

[Buggs]

Something to consider with these old bows is that they might not have been glued up with epoxy. It was not used exclusively like it is these days and this could be especially true with any bow laid up with woven glass.
Epoxy compatibility  with a variety of old adhesives could be a problem.

[stan v]

This bow is from 65-67 best I can tell.  I have made contact with an old school bowyer who says it's fixable.  I have to ship.

[Buggs]

You have any pictures Stan?
What did you use for epoxy on your repair?

You did not say if your bow has a split in the glass, like the OP's. Should be able to tell with some magnification.
If not, you might have a bigger problem. Like glue failure, if as you say the de-lamination is traveling down the limb.

[stan v]

You have any pictures Stan?
What did you use for epoxy on your repair?

You did not say if your bow has a split in the glass, like the OP's. Should be able to tell with some magnification.
If not, you might have a bigger problem. Like glue failure, if as you say the de-lamination is traveling down the limb.

And that's a concern I have with any repair at this point.  I'm 50/50 to bite the bullet and give it a go by shipping it out and see what happens or trashing the whole thing.  It just seems fixable to me.  I have photos but havn't messed with posting them.  If I do it'll be on another thread.  I've torpedoed this one enough.

I used gorilla 2 part 5 min epoxy.   It's holding

[Buggs]

In the future, I would stay away from 5min epoxy for long term repairs. I have found that quick epoxy's and others that are not 100% solids start out brittle and get worse with age. I would not use EA-40 either, it's really thick and will not flow into tight spaces. A thin epoxy, heated and applied to a heated surface will naturally wick into any voids.

Still don't know if your bows glass fractured or splintered or just de-lam-ed?

[stan v]

Still don't know if your bows glass fractured or splintered or just de-lam-ed?

I'm not sure what's going on with the fiberglass.  It appears to have delamed.  I have another referral near Houston I've reached out to for an opinion on what's the best way to approach this problem.  If he responds with an interest I'll take bow to him.  I just started picking these old bows up and have a great desire to pass them on to grand kids.  This is the only one (out of 6 purchased) that I've had any problem with at all. 

[Kirkll]

From what I know, when it's on the belly side, it's an underlay. But yeah along with the rest, either heated and peel it off and re-glass it. It. Or glue it down and do an underlay. I would probably if I had the time and want to. Heated up and reglass the belly side. JF

Where on earth did you come up with that definition?  An “Underlay” ???  The term underlayment is used as a flooring base used under carpet. Typically partial board. But I’ve never heard this term used in any other context.

  regardless of which side of the limb or riser it goes on , belly or back, these are still overlays. 

Now the layer below the overlay could be considered and underlayment I suppose….   

I did not notice how old this thread was…. I wonder if he ever got it fixed and if it held up?   

[Kirkll]

I would not use EA-40 either, it's really thick and will not flow into tight spaces. A thin epoxy, heated and applied to a heated surface will naturally wick into any voids.

Hey Buggs,  You would be surprised what you can do with EA 40 and a heat gun. That stuff thins down nicely with heat. i put my two parts in a microwave prior to mixing and it will liquify the resin in 15 seconds in the winter when its cold. i only use 10 seconds in the summer weather..... after mixing it, applying the heat strips in the form liquifies it again right before it starts to kick off.

granted.... a thinner epoxy has its place, and may be easier to use than EA 40....But for flexibility after curing smooth on is hard to beat.     Kirk

[Buggs]

I'm with you on the heat, Kirk. I like to have the heat gun in one hand and the spreader in the other when applying epoxy. But for repairs where you are needing to get the stuff into spaces you cant access with tools, a warm thin epoxy is going to wick better than warm EA-40.

[Kirkll]

Yup… I agree with you on that one Buggs…. Same goes for the thin grade superglue. For hair line cracks in wood, that stuff is incredible. I’ve fixed some checking issues in risers with thin superglue that did an excellent job. but it really isn’t flexible enough for doing a limb repair in an area that is going to see much flexing.   Kirk

[stan v]

Sounds like I have 2 methods here.  I've ordered loctite 420 and syringes, which I have researched.  But, the EA-40 can be warmed enough to flow as well?  I think I can introduce some acetone and maybe sandpaper a little between glass and core to roughen up the edge of the delamination area at least. 

Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct?  All this for a $150 bow!

[Buggs]

Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct?  All this for a $150 bow!

Be a hell of a lot more if you have to pay someone to do the repair.

[Kirkll]

Then I can use the EA-40 to overlay the tips, correct?  All this for a $150 bow!

You can use the EA 40 for replacing tip overlays too, but I prefer super glue for those. Mostly for easy of application.

But….You need not replace the tip overlays on that repair if you don’t want too. Just file the new grooves, and be sure and round them over nice and clean into the belly side of the limb.    Kirk