Author Topic: Cracks in the fade  (Read 1544 times)

Offline Mike L.

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Cracks in the fade
« on: March 15, 2021, 10:54:58 PM »
You know how you’re supposed to sand the fades so they’re paper thin?  I was using some of that reinforced tape with the strings in it, doing my dry run, and the riser stuck to the tape and fell on the floor, cracking the paper thin part.  When that happens, is there anything that can be done? 
Mike L.

Offline Mad Max

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2021, 12:09:44 AM »
glue a 1/8" lam on the back  of the riser and reshape it again.

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Offline Mike L.

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2021, 01:09:18 AM »
Good idea!
Mike L.

Online mmattockx

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2021, 10:50:28 AM »
the riser stuck to the tape and fell on the floor, cracking the paper thin part. 

How is it cracked? Across the grain or along it?


Mark

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2021, 11:19:04 AM »
Basically the ends chipped off.  There is one small crack that runs about an inch up the grain (along the grain) but it’s an eighth of an inch from the edge. 
Mike L.

Offline Mad Max

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2021, 12:33:05 PM »
Basically the ends chipped off.  There is one small crack that runs about an inch up the grain (along the grain) but it’s an eighth of an inch from the edge.

If all of the fade is there, a crack is fine.
I leave my fades thick (1/16") until just before glue up
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Offline Mark R

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2021, 01:45:43 PM »
I hate when that happens I do the same as Mad Max

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2021, 02:21:39 PM »
I glued an 18” piece of a .070” walnut lam to it, then reshaped the fades and it seems to have worked out really great.  I had done 3 dry runs but was struggling with the ramps.  After I glued on that lam, I realized I had been putting dowels on the wrong side of the fire hose... duh.  I’ve been doing Kenny’s FHLB for my last several builds and only tried the 64” DR once.  This time the ramps and fades looked good before glue.  I’m curing at 95 degrees for 12 hours because I don’t want the lignum vitae to sweat out all the oil.  As always, thanks for the support! 
Mike L.

Offline Mad Max

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2021, 03:09:15 PM »
If you have a riser blank 16" long and you need a 18" riser you can do the same thing.
I've done it several times :thumbsup:.

when I build my forms, the gap between the upper and lower form is about 1-1/4" but at the fade area I go down  to 3/4" :thumbsup:
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Offline Mad Max

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2021, 03:18:48 PM »

This will be on the same form as the risers in the second picture.
Roughly shaped


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Offline Mike L.

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2021, 04:59:02 PM »
 That upper riser is 16”, but you add a lam to the back to make it 18”, that’s whet you’re saying?  Does that one have the lam on it yet?

That’s a really cool looking riser shape.  You glue it up with the back glass one piece? Is that solely an aesthetic choice?
Mike L.

Offline Mike L.

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2021, 04:59:43 PM »
What kind of wood is that top one?
Mike L.

Offline Mad Max

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Re: Cracks in the fade
« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2021, 05:42:06 PM »
That upper riser is 16”, but you add a lam to the back to make it 18”, that’s what you’re saying?

Yes for reply #8

Sorry, Totally different risers in the pictures
For reply#9  that riser Blank will be shaped to fit the same glue up form as the 2 risers in the 2nd picture, they are longer like 22".
Don't remember the wood on that Riser blank, I still have not built a bow with it
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