Options for an underweight bow

[Kindo]

Well, I’ve run into my first major blunder trying to make a few bows... (dang this is addicting!)

My first few I had used Gordon’s glass through one retailer, but being new, I wanted to explore some other supplier and see what they had for wood etc. On top of that, the clarity seemed very mixed on the Gordon glass.

On my recent build. I used another supplier who had great service and beautiful wood. They also sold Bear Paw glass which I decided to give a try without doing any research. My stack is right on when compared to my other bows (two around 50# with Gordon glass) but I’m coming in at 40# with BP glass.

After doing a few quick searches, I found that the BP glass has had issues with this. I will say; however, that the BP is much more clear than the Gordons.

Here is where my screw up comes in. I already epoxied on my tip overlays prior to checking my weight. My bow is currently a 62” mild r/d longbow. Can I cut this one down a bit and attach new tip overlays? Leave it as a lighter weight bow? What do you folks recommend?

Also, I ordered components to make my dad a 40# bow but fear it may come in around 30 now after what happened to this bow. Do I just order another core lam to build the stack up to compensate?

As always, thanks for all the help everyone!

[skeaterbait]

If you are happy with how it turned out, aside from weight, finish it up and have a light spare. If you really want/need this one to get closer to weight, shorten it up a inch or so on each end. If you are already addicted, I say make it a spare or a gift for someone who needs a lighter bow.

And just a hint, pics are king around here.

[Flem]

Give the 40# bow you just made to your Dad. Add some core wood to compensate for the glass in your next build.

[Kindo]

Thanks for the input so far. The catch is, my dad wanted a specific looking bow (black walnut/maple riser) with curly maple limbs. I’m sure he’d be happy with this bow, but perhaps I can utilize this mishap to learn a few things. I just don’t want to ruin anything as that turns into a 175-200 screw up since I have to order all my lams etc.

The bow is looking good, but at the same time I wanted to try something different to trim up the riser a bit. For my first few, I’ve had the shelf at 1.25” above center of bow but it leaves a bit more riser material on top (this is more of an aesthetics thing but I’d also like to maybe tinker to see how it changes the shooting characteristics.

I’m thinking of moving the shelf up to 2” above center and that should make me need a slightly longer lower limb correct? Could I move the shelf to 2” above center, and just trim the top limb down? That would bring my top ramp to end right at the posterior aspect of my shelf.

Sorry, this is all pretty new to me and sometimes I just vomit my ideas out.

I’ll try and get some pictures so this makes more sense.

[Kindo]

I’m thinking I could move the shelf up, trim the limbs accordingly? Or would I potentially run into issues where I may not be able to trim enough to remove the already epoxied tip overlays?

[Roy from Pa]

I would leave it as is and not mess with it.

You could always give it to someone getting started in trad shooting.

Make another bow, ya know you want too:)

[skeaterbait]

I’m thinking I could move the shelf up, trim the limbs accordingly? Or would I potentially run into issues where I may not be able to trim enough to remove the already epoxied tip overlays?

Don't worry too much about the overlays, you have to sand the glass anyway to epoxy new overlays, just take your time in sanding the old ones off and you'll be fine. If you have already filed in the string grooves that could be a bit different but in most cases when you re-narrow the tips you would take those out.

That said, I agree with Roy, keep the success and make your adjustments on the next one.

[Kindo]

Fair enough, gents. I’ll leave her as-is. Hopefully, she’ll be a looker/shooter when it’s all wrapped up!

In regards to cutting in my arrow shelf/handle. What considerations do I need to make if I want to move the shelf up 2” from center of the bow? Currently, I’ve been cutting it in at 1-1.25” above center and the bows have been shooting well. Not necessarily making the changes on this particular bow but for future builds?

Thanks again!

[Roy from Pa]

In regards to cutting in my arrow shelf/handle. What considerations do I need to make if I want to move the shelf up 2” from center of the bow? Currently, I’ve been cutting it in at 1-1.25” above center and the bows have been shooting well.

I would "not" move the arrow shelf up to 2" above bow center...

1.25 is pretty much the normal.

[Kindo]

Sounds good, Roy. So is it safe to say the “smarter” option would be to maybe change up that ramp to bring the end point of it closer to center?

Kind of like this picture?

[Roy from Pa]

I'm not a glass bow guy, someone else will answer ya though..

[EvilDogBeast]

I add a detail cutout in the area between the ramp and the top of the grip/shelf area.  Many others here do as well, which is where I picked it up from.  Take a look at some of the finished bows posted here for examples.

[kennym]

I try to make both ramps the same til the riser is thick enough to not bend at all. I made a couple with different ramps clear to the fades, they both changed tiller later.  I retillered them but don't know if they stayed, they were ones I helped buddies build.