Why cut arrows?

[Lori]

Back quiver, plus 32" carbon shaft plus a three inch broadhead. Those puppies are going to be sticking way up there. Watchout for low power lines, branches and lightening. Full length with wood arrows, turns it all into a rather large guessing game for spine.

[Tom0728]

Lstok88 i just made my own square with wood and yep I cover my block with sandpaper and spin. Im not into the idea that foc from only weight perspective increases penetration,to me it always seems that by using a stiffer shaft due to added weight is what makes the whole deal work. Look at slow mo video on some light arrows.....they bend like crazy.

[cacciatore]

    I have a 29" draw.
So I cut to 29" BOP.
    So I draw to the BOP, Kinda like a draw check.
I don't like excess arrow sticking out....
   All of my arrows regardless of material, Are Give or take 500 grains with 125 grain Tip's.

If I ain’t wrong Fred Asbell was used to have his hunting arrows touching the riser at full draw.

[cacciatore]

I personally fine tune my arrow with the point then I cut the arrow as needed

[MnFn]

I may be the odd ball here, but I have shot arrows 29” or so for so long that it is ingrained in my brain I think.  When shooting, I  “see” the arrow tip in my perifial vision. I do not use the arrow tip as an aiming point but my mind apparently does subconsciously factor it in.

I didn’t realize that until once long ago I was visiting RMSG in the Denver area.  I saw a nice Poison Dart bow, complete with bow quiver hanging up in the target range area and what appeared to be full length skinny arrows.

I asked about it and was told that it was Tom Clum’s personal bow and was offered the chance to try it out.  Immediately I had a nice  group of arrows in the target but as I recall the group was about 8-10” low.

Could I get used to that eventually? Probably, but for the change in shooting various bows and some of the reasons listed above I choose to keep my arrows at 29”.

[A Lex]

I may be the odd ball here, but I have shot arrows 29” or so for so long that it is ingrained in my brain I think.  When shooting, I  “see” the arrow tip in my perifial vision. I do not use the arrow tip as an aiming point but my mind apparently does subconsciously factor it in.

^^^ This, and 29ish inch arrows for me too.

I am a tad OCD though, and I guess that's why I like continuity in my set-ups. I choose the components (same type for all my 3 bows) and tune from there, trim shoot, trim shoot etc. My arrows have always come in at that 28-3/4 to 29-1/4", and they shoot great for me (I draw just a fuzz under 28")

I've tried tuning longer arrows, but my brain just will not co-operate, and it won't compensate for the longer shaft length. I simply cannot hit where I look with them. I end up aiming instead of simply looking at my spot and shooting. Unfortunately the aiming thing doesn't work so well for me.

My thoughts, for what they are worth, are the advantages (of which a good many are mentioned in above posts) of a properly tuned arrow that is an inch to an inch and a half longer than ones draw length, do out-weigh any ease of tuning benefits there may be. 

But....if your set-up tunes perfectly, and your arrows consistently hit where you look, then by all means use the full length shafts.

That's the beauty of traditional archery, we are all different and we all like different things, so if it works well for you, then it's the right thing for you.

Best
Lex