ASL Grip Dimensions and Shaping

[boxerboxer]

I'm in the process of figuring out an ASL build and have most specs figured out. That said, something I've been struggling to find info on is grip dimensions. I know everybody has their little details they prefer, but what I'm shooting for is something pretty close to the straight grip on a HH bow. Not having shot one before I figure that's as good a place to start as any.

The bow I'll be building will be 1.125" at the fadeouts with a 14" riser. My hands aren't particularly large or small. I was thinking 4-4.125" belly glass to belly glass, and 2" deep including the back lam stack (0.58ish), but not sure how wide they normally would be. 7/8" seems like it could work, and then with a leather wrap I'd be around 1.125ish or maybe a little less.

The other thing I'm wondering is how to shape the profile. Pictures seem to indicate that from the back to the belly the handle has sort of a teardrop shape, but I'm not sure how pointy I want it. Obviously a sharp edge would be uncomfortable, but if anybody had a cross section drawing that would give me some idea that would be helpful. I suppose I can grab it as I go from time to time to see how it feels.

[Longcruise]

It's difficult for us to anticipate what will work for you.  I can only relate to my own experience but here's a few observations.  First,  size of the grip in relation to your hand is important. 

 Your 4" length is a good choice. Watch that it doesn't get too long and the glass to glass measurement accounts for the angle of the glass.  If the glass is .040 and is over a 040 lam, at a 45 deg angle that adds .160 of length at each end and thus lengthening the grip area by .320.  It's not a bad thing functionally but it doesn't have that "hill" look.

On the depth,  it's just my opinion that it's better to end up a little smaller than larger.   This one below was 2.25 before the leather wrap.  It was difficult to grip but the addition of the leather wrap with the flesh side out made it a comfortable shooter.  Still if it was even 1.75" deep with the wrap it would still be a good fit for me.

The other consideration on depth is torque.   The deeper the grip, the longer the lever and the easier to torque the grip.

I suggest starting with a "racetrack" flat profile and shoot it for a while before making any changes.  You can always take more off and it's easier than rebuilding with Bondo.

[Flem]

If you are unsure of what style grip to go with, it's best to go with what feels familiar. The classic "Johnson"
for instance.

[boxerboxer]

If you are unsure of what style grip to go with, it's best to go with what feels familiar. The classic "Johnson"
for instance.

I'm not sure what a Johnson grip refers to and had trouble finding anything useful searching, but I'd like something as close to the standard HH straight grip as possible. It's part of what appeals to me aesthetically about that style of bow. If I find I can't shoot that grip I probably won't spend any time on ASLs after that because I don't want a dished or locator grip on an ASL. No practical reason, just doesn't grab me.

[Longcruise]

If you are unsure of what style grip to go with, it's best to go with what feels familiar. The classic "Johnson"
for instance.

I'm not sure what a Johnson grip refers to and had trouble finding anything useful searching, but I'd like something as close to the standard HH straight grip as possible. It's part of what appeals to me aesthetically about that style of bow. If I find I can't shoot that grip I probably won't spend any time on ASLs after that because I don't want a dished or locator grip on an ASL. No practical reason, just doesn't grab me.

Given that,  just start with the "racetrack"  and evolve it toward the teardrop if you don't care for the racetrack.  Nice thing about the ASL is you can start shooting a virtually finished bow and continue to evolve the grip.

I've never tried the dished.  I prefer the straight teardrop.  I've used it on some R/D longbows too and like it with that style too.

Keep us updated.

[Shredd]

Yeah... Just grip your johnson... That always feels good...    LMAO...

  Joking aside...  Take a 2x4 about 20" long and make a mock up of your bow riser...  Make about 3 to 4 different ones... Tie enough rope to each end to reach to a full draw... Now draw them all back with 40 to 50# of pressure and pick out the one that feels best to you... Wrap some leather around them if you have to... No one can tell you what feels good to you... 

[algstick]

I build my hill style bows to have a 4" grip length and the depth to be 2" from fiberglass backing to wood, I end up with 2 1/8" once I apply the leather. I like the feel of a very slight dish (1/16" maximum) and a fairly sharp teardrop shape. I narrow the grip width down from 1 1/8" at the fadeouts to 1" thru the 4" long grip section. I have a couple of custom bows that were built this way and I mimic the shape to some extent on my own builds. I experimented with shapes a bit until I found what suited me the best. I would suggest you build a couple and do the same,,,,, don't kid yourself you will not build just one.