My Version of a Target Bow...

[Shredd]

   Being that I been shooting more and possibly getting into competitive archery I think I should give myself every advantage I can get to being more accurate... I decided it's time to build myself a target bow... 

Some of you were right, a recurve can be just as accurate as a long bow I was hooked on the tale that a long bow is more forgiving and thus more accurate... I been shooting my recurve... It has a much smoother draw, which is pleasant to use and I been hitting the mark with it, so I will be using those limbs on this new endeavor... Plus with the added 6 to 8 fps the flatter trajectory will be a bonus...

   Question:  With the smoother draw than my long bow the draw weight actually feels lighter than my longbow... Do you think I can go a pound or two heavier and not over bow myself??  Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate...  Which, I am on the edge at 40#...

[Roy from Pa]

Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate...  Which, I am on the edge at 40#...


If you want to be more accurate, drop down in weight a few pounds, not go up in weight, and make the bow longer and completely center shot.

A lighter bow with a lighter arrow will give you a flat trajectory just as well as a heavier bow with a heavier arrow.

You aren't getting any younger...   

[Shredd]

Thanks Royster...

[OldRawhide42]

I would go down in lbs . If you are on the edge at 1 shot what is it going to be after 60 shots.
What kind of target archery are you thinking about .

[Mad Max]

longer Recurve 68"

[Shredd]

What I mean by on the edge is I can handle 40# pretty comfortably for about a 100 shots or so... But if I went up a couple lbs. I think I would struggle a little...

   I am only familiar with 3D now but I am open to other kinds of archery...

  I was talking to a guy on FB who is a really good shot...  He practices with all poundages of bows... Lighter bows to refine his release and I Would guess heavier bows for strength...  I am thinking of taking this approach but no more than a 45 to 47# bow...  Don't need to be hurting myself...   

[Roy from Pa]

Listen up here buttercup....

Does 60, "SIXTY",  ring a bell?

That is OLDER than dirt...

And it only gets worse, ask me:)

Make a 66" to 68" longbow or recurve @ 38# and make it center shot.

Get some Goldtip Ultra light carbon shafts in either 600 or 700 spine and they will fly light bullets...

Put on 3 inch feathers at a slight helical, I don't think too much of guys who shoot vanes:) 

[mmattockx]

   Question:  With the smoother draw than my long bow the draw weight actually feels lighter than my longbow... Do you think I can go a pound or two heavier and not over bow myself??  Remember this is a target bow and I need to be totally comfortable to be accurate...  Which, I am on the edge at 40#...

You want a longer, heavier bow with the smoothest draw possible. I agree with Roy that making it full centershot is a good idea. If they are legal for what you are doing then use stabilizers as well. Basically you want to end up as close to an Olympic recurve as your rules will allow.

If you want to draw a heavier bow there are bow exercises that will help your strength and endurance. If you look up Jake Kaminsky on youtube his channel has videos on strength training, form, and lots of other aspects of target archery.


Mark

[Shredd]

   I made a mock-up riser out of a 2x4 to see how the limbs would look at brace and at 28" draw...  The limbs are a hair on the straight side but since the bow is so long, down the line I may be making a set of limbs with a 1" to 2" longer butt wedge to make a shorter snappier limb Or I can shorten the limbs an inch or shim them...  The riser is 20" long and 12*...  Bow is 68" ntn...  Limbs come in about 39.5# at 28".... The bow in the pic is at 7 1/2" brace...

   Tip...   No matter how careful you think you are and if you are only gonna to string up the bow for a few seconds to take a peek at it...  Always, always install some side keepers on your mock-up riser...  How do I know this??  I am an expert in the unpredictable scissor bow...

[Mad Max]

 

[kennym]

Lookin good Rich. Great string angle , should reduce finger pinch ...

[Roy from Pa]

I like it..

down the line I may be making a set of limbs with a 1" to 2" longer butt wedge to make a shorter snappier limb

That will make her quicker for sure, that is how my bear take down is, a 25" riser and short limbs.

[Shredd]

It's called the Bue effect...   

[williwaw]

Nice bend Rich, 

can you snap a pic of it sitting on the tree unbraced?

thanks


edit:  are these the limbs?  https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=172648.msg2922268#msg2922268

[Shredd]

 I thought should add this for those who are not up to date...

  The Bue Effect is when you have a longer bow with shorter, snappier limbs...

[Roy from Pa]

Ah thanks for the clarification, Rich.

I thought BUE stood for your "Bows Usually Explode"

 

[Mad Max]

Groves Spitfire recurve 69", Long heavy riser




"""Groves recurves swept competitions around the world"""

[Roy from Pa]

Nice..

That yours?

[Mad Max]

Nope

[Shredd]

I cut the riser 1/8" past center, after sanding I might remove another 1/32"...  Do you think that is enough?? I didn't want to take too much stock off the window area... I always round off that area somewhat...  I plan to go without a strike plate to keep the arrow as center as possible... I will just put a couple of extra coats of finish there...  Is that ok?? or do you guys prefer something soft there to act as a button?? Or should I plan to install a button?? That will take me off center though, or is that ok??

   I am familiar with target bows but not all the small details and tricks to shooting an arrow straight...