Help tune my arrows (pics)

[vermonster13]

Not the weight so much as the reduced flex along those five inches from the feathers and glue lines, you are shooting 30"+ arrows and everything is magnified at those arrow lengths. It takes much less weight up front to effect spine and less on the back to do the same.

I keep going back to the 15 yard groups, everything is pretty much left and grouped there. Unless your form is real good, thirty yards is a long shot for someone just starting out, especially with a new bow.

[JC]

As I said, we have different views.

His 30 yard groups are much smaller than the 15 and a much clearer spine indicator. The first 3 pics where not decipherable for any spine determination in my opinion because all the arrows were scattered. As long as there is no riser contact; If the arrows were too stiff, the bareshafts would always land to the left of the fletched arrows for a right handed shooter, again, in my experience. Your mileage may vary, I'm just telling you how it always works for me.

I'll bow out of this one now...hope you resolve the problem.

[wtpops]

Just a thought if they are real stiff would the bear shaft contact the riser and kick the shaft giving a false weak reading on the target

[Shawn Leonard]

I have to agree with JC on this for sure. The only other explaination is they could be way weak and he is getting an opposite reading. We need the exact bow specs first. I always shoot the three fletched arrows first and than shoot at them withthe bareshafts, even a shaft that is not spined very close will hit pretty close to what you are aiming at unless they are way off. I have shot shafts that were 25#s overspine and still hit within a couple inches of my aiming point and than the bareshafts were 8-10"s left. Shawn

[amicus]

I was not able to do any shooting last night, so no update. Hopefully today. Thanks Gilbert