1st Recurve Bow Build - Limb stuck in form?

[Crooked Stic]

Rule # 2 always keep a dead blow hammer at reach. 

[kenboonejr]

I use a centering drill jig to drill a 1/4" hole dead center of the riser and form to pin every thing down, no lams slipping around.

So in their plans, the form can account for 3 different size bows, 58" 60" and 62" and there is a hole you drill in the form and they give you a metal pin to put in the correct hole for the size bow you are building.  They said to leave 3/8" of the pin sticking out and this is for the limb to rest against.  The problem with that is when you stack all the laminations and wedge, that 3/8" only comes to a certain point in the wedge.  Which means your bottom glass, tapered lam and the wedge can rest firmly against the pin, but the parallel and top glass can slide over the top of the pin. 

It seems to me that pin should be the full height of all the laminations together to keep any slippage from occurring.

[kennym]

I drill the hole slightly bigger than pin with enough depth to put a spring under it. Then the pressure strip can push it down and still catch the limb material.

It will take a little messing to get the hole right depth.

[kenboonejr]

I drill the hole slightly bigger than pin with enough depth to put a spring under it. Then the pressure strip can push it down and still catch the limb material.

It will take a little messing to get the hole right depth.

Okay that makes sense.

[Mad Max]

I use a centering drill jig to drill a 1/4" hole dead center of the riser and form to pin every thing down, no lams slipping around.

So in their plans, the form can account for 3 different size bows, 58" 60" and 62" and there is a hole you drill in the form and they give you a metal pin to put in the correct hole for the size bow you are building.  They said to leave 3/8" of the pin sticking out and this is for the limb to rest against.  The problem with that is when you stack all the laminations and wedge, that 3/8" only comes to a certain point in the wedge.  Which means your bottom glass, tapered lam and the wedge can rest firmly against the pin, but the parallel and top glass can slide over the top of the pin. 

It seems to me that pin should be the full height of all the laminations together to keep any slippage from occurring.

I make my own wedges and lams so I would make all of it 1" longer and use the pin to keep it in place.

[BrushWolf]

Leave a 1/4 of the butt end without smooth-on and use super glue to glue it all together. You are going to cut the first 1/2 off anyway keeps stuff from slipping and sliding.

[Birdbow76]

Saw your video of the limb build and wanted to offer a few tips. Wiping the metal pressure strip with wax along with plastic wrap between the taped down bow, pressure strip and hose will help everything come off the form easier and keep things from getting a build up of tape residue and epoxy. Air it up slowly and ease it to max pressure rather than going straight to 60-70 psi and letting air out...this will prevent your lams from sliding around as much and prevent air bubbles. For more control and not having as much epoxy to sand off the edges try using a thin, flexible 1 1/2" putty knife to apply your epoxy. For better performance on your next bow use a core wood like maple, actionboo, etc... with the nicer but heavier woods like bocote as .030 veneers under the glass, that way your limb will be a little lighter and more responsive. Bowbuilding is an addictive hobby and I hope you enjoy the process.

[kenboonejr]

Saw your video of the limb build and wanted to offer a few tips. Wiping the metal pressure strip with wax along with plastic wrap between the taped down bow, pressure strip and hose will help everything come off the form easier and keep things from getting a build up of tape residue and epoxy. Air it up slowly and ease it to max pressure rather than going straight to 60-70 psi and letting air out...this will prevent your lams from sliding around as much and prevent air bubbles. For more control and not having as much epoxy to sand off the edges try using a thin, flexible 1 1/2" putty knife to apply your epoxy. For better performance on your next bow use a core wood like maple, actionboo, etc... with the nicer but heavier woods like bocote as .030 veneers under the glass, that way your limb will be a little lighter and more responsive. Bowbuilding is an addictive hobby and I hope you enjoy the process.

Thanks so much for that feedback.  I actually did wax the pressure strip but I think I put the plastic wrap over the pressure strip instead of under it like you said.  As far as putting air in I actually started with a bicycle pump, but for some reason in the mold I couldn't get it above 30 PSI.  When I tested it for water leaks I pumped it all the way up to 60+ PSI with that pump, but in the mold, it wouldn't get above 30.  So that is when I took the compressor to it.  That makes sense though about it sliding around if it is pumped up too fast.  You also confirmed my thinking about the foam brush I was using to apply it with.  I felt like I was using too much epoxy and that brush didn't seem to hold up real well.  My wife actually picked up several of those thin plastic putty knives you mentioned at Lowe's yesterday and I am going to try gluing up the second limb in just a little bit using those plastic putty knives instead of the foam brush.  So thanks for giving me confirmation on that.

As far as what you mentioned about using something different for the core wood.. could you explain that a little more.  Again this is my first build, and I am finding out quickly if it wasn't for this forum the video and book from Bingham's although good - leaves a lot of things out and the video just makes it like everything fits so easy and it goes so quick.   So the kit I have, each limb has the 5 parts.  The inner and outer glass, then a tapered and parallel bocote lam, then the wedge.  So in your description for a lighter faster limb, what would the layup look like?

Thanks again for the feedback.  I am learning a ton form doing this as well as from the fine folks on this forum!

[Mad Max]

before you drill your holes in the riser and limbs tells how you plan on doing it.

[Jeff Freeman]

I think we've all had those mistakes learning how to glue up a bow. Things get slippery. And you're nervous as hell, want to make sure it turns out right. Strive for the best. JF

[kenboonejr]

I think we've all had those mistakes learning how to glue up a bow. Things get slippery. And you're nervous as hell, want to make sure it turns out right. Strive for the best. JF

No kidding on being nervous man.  I just glued up my second limb and put it in the hot box about 20 mins ago and I was only "slightly" less nervous.

[Jeff Freeman]

It will get better, remember you're supposed to be having fun 🏹 JF

[Birdbow76]

You would be adding 1 more layer of wood to your limb. Clear glass on the outside followed by thin parallel veneers of heavy, exotic wood and make the inner lamination a taper of actionboo (laminated bamboo).

[kenboonejr]

You would be adding 1 more layer of wood to your limb. Clear glass on the outside followed by thin parallel veneers of heavy, exotic wood and make the inner lamination a taper of actionboo (laminated bamboo).

Yea ok that is what I was thinking when you said that.  So the thickness and size would be adjusted in the design then for hoped for draw weight at draw length then.