Riser jig

[IanBB]

So I've seen a few excellent jigs on here for doing risers and I want to make something to hold the riser block to get the fades perfect, I currently do them by hand on the sander. I don't have anywhere on my belt sander that I could attached a runner guide or roller and was wondering if anyone had any good ideas for how I could make an attachment to work with my sander to taper the fades. Most of the sander I see on here have an area under the belt where a shelf could be attached, mine is separate.

[Flem]

So you are wanting to be able to use one of the two end pulleys, but need an additional  square, flat surface mounted to your sander?
It looks like your sandpaper width is enough that you would not have to mount anything under the belt, but could maybe scab a plate onto the existing  frame or table. looks like some drilling and bolting are in order.
Max is the guy you want to hear from, he has done machine mods and from the pics he posted, he's got skills!

[Mad Max]

Crooked Stic has a NICE pattern sander setup on the end above the Motor

[Flem]

I don't know why I have been thinking about your problem, especially since this seems to be a chum thread.
But it would be easy enough to clamp an "L" shaped piece onto your existing table (plywood, recycled counter, etc)
with a strut under the unclamped portion for support. Excuse the crude markup, I tapped into my inner Chicken.

[Jeff Freeman]

Like this

[Flem]

  Exactly!  Nice one, how do you attach your table?

[Jeff Freeman]

Like this

[IanBB]

Nice Flem, that's probably the way to go. I probably shouldn't worry too much about drilling into the existing base.

I was also thinking of a jig for powerlams, I could probably get both with a new table.

[Jeff Freeman]

Find a flat spot of the drum to set your table at and then choose your taper or parallel sled to run through. J

[Flem]

Nice Flem, that's probably the way to go. I probably shouldn't worry too much about drilling into the existing base.

I was also thinking of a jig for powerlams, I could probably get both with a new table.

I got nuthin' here. It's all Jeff!!

[IanBB]

Looks like you have a very similar machine Jeff.

I'll see if I can pattern something similar. I like the idea of being able to fit different attachments to the wooden table. I don't think I have ever used the metal table to hold any other jig apart from the square attachment.

Do you use that to do riser fades?

[Jeff Freeman]

Yes I do use it for riser fades. The end with rubber drum and the small table. Make sure you have it setup square. JF

[Jeff Freeman]

I found the flat spot on this end I like it better for doing the riser fades. JF

[Jeff Freeman]

I can move around my desk collector wherever I want clamp it to the table. Or like right now my table is a big workstation, lol JF

[Flem]

Thats a really nice set-up Jeff   Did you recycle a counter top for that?

I don't know if you folks have Building/ home recycling stores over in the UK, but they are a great source of cheap materials for projects like yours. That or craigslist

[Jeff Freeman]

Yes recycled countertop from my work. Action boo under the edges for extra stability. JF

[Crooked Stic]

Use the drive drum end. have the drum turned flat except for the las inch on either end.
I used steel for a table but alum. will work. Use the cover plate bolts on your motor to mount the plate. Will need spacers and shim stock to get it squareA simple rub pin for your jigs is the cheaper way to go.

[IanBB]

Jeff - you've given me some good ideas, I'll have a go at making something today.

Crooked Stic - my issue with using my drive wheel is that mine is made from rubber and doesn't adjust. I can see how in yours you're able to attach to it, I can't do the same on mine.

Going to have a go and see what I can come up with. I may as well drill into my table, couple of small holes won't cause any problems.

[Mad Max]

Stic
How thick is your plate???????????

IanBB you can mount to the motor bolts like stic did, rubber should work as long as it's flat

[IanBB]

Max - I have a plate I can attach, I'm not too keen to use the motor bolts. It works so well it doesn't need me taking it apart and not getting it back as good 


Had a little play earlier with an idea I'm having. Hopefully the pictures tell the story, it works pretty well as is. Keeping it square would just require a slightly wider plate of wood to hold it and some purpose clamps. This was just rough.

So an offset guide which moves on a pin that allows you to copy the underneath of the form. Thoughts?

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