T/D recurve help-along

[kennym]

But the 10.25" wedge has a 2.75" flat on the butt for the bolt. so that will cut off if you make it 8.25"

We just went with Binghams design, but if it changes, I'd be happy to make different wedges...

[Mad Max]

How thick is it kenny?
7.5" of taper on the wedge?
May have to make new ones

[kennym]

.375x1.75 x10.25 with a 2.75 flat then tapered to 0

[Mad Max]

 

[Balding Kansan]

I have an old Osage riser block I milled a couple years back to make a longbow. I don’t think it’s 1.75 wide but I’ll check. I could probably come up with some new wedges if it’s got the width.

We’d be looking for 8 1/2” long x 1.75” wide x 5” flat spot at 1/4” tapered to nothing over 3.5” of run?

Then you mentioned pinning the butt ends, so I assume we’re going to cut an inch off leaving a 4” flat.

I may have a solution. If I knocked an 1/8 off these wedges, it’d leave me with 5 1/2” of flat, then would leave me 1/4” tapered to nothing over around 4 1/2”.

[Mad Max]

Changing things up a little
I looked at a older bow I made.
Use the wedges you have, Don't thin it down.
So your wedges won't have a flat after you finish the bow, just the wedge part.
The Bezels that come with  the take down bolt kit will allow for the bolt being crooked because of the tapered ramps.
With this setup you want your bolt in the center and your dowels on each side of the bolt.
when you make your form for the limbs, make it 2" longer (1" for the line up block and 1" to cut off the wedge later)at the wedge area.
make the wedge 8-1/2" long, cut most of the flat part off.

So your wedge and form are 1" longer now, you can screw a line up block on that 1" area, it will keep everything from sliding around so much.

[Mad Max]

Wedge all the way

[Balding Kansan]

I understand. I’ll get the template cut out and start on the form. It’s blistering hot here and makes the shop pretty miserable so it may be a couple few days. Thanks a lot.

[Mad Max]

 

[kennym]

I wish we had known what wedges to make the first go.  Since this is your first go on this design, just tell me some specs and I'll send you what you need on my dime...

[Balding Kansan]

My fault Kenny. I put the cart in front of the horse on this deal. I think we have it worked out but if not I’d kindly pay for a couple more!

[kennym]

How bout you pay shipping? Final offer!

[Mad Max]

How bout you pay shipping? Final offer!

Kenny 1/4" thick 9" long, taper  3-1/2"
3-1/2" tapered --1/2" from the taper to the riser and 5" for  the flat.
If you not made it all ready

[Balding Kansan]

Yeah! What he said!

[Balding Kansan]

On the top half of the form at the butt end, do I need to profile out for the wedge and additional limb thickness or leave it alone?

[Mad Max]

Leave it for now, as long as there is room for the hose on the dry run I would not mess with it.
Easy to take off, hard to put back on.

[Balding Kansan]

Well I messed up my first 2 attempts routing out the form. The 1st one I didn’t leave any room on the ends to let the router clear the template. So I cut a longer piece of form material. My thought was to use the router base to run along the template with a straight cut bit, which worked just fine until I got to the radius. It’s obvious now that it won’t cut the same radius as the template. My router is a little laminate router so I was making multiple passes. I will get a flush cut with a bearing and see if it can eat the whole board in one pass or burn up.

[Balding Kansan]

Well I messed up my first 2 attempts routing out the form. The 1st one I didn’t leave any room on the ends to let the router clear the template. So I cut a longer piece of form material. My thought was to use the router base to run along the template with a straight cut bit, which worked just fine until I got to the radius. It’s obvious now that it won’t cut the same radius as the template. My router is a little laminate router so I was making multiple passes. I will get a flush cut with a bearing and see if it can eat the whole board in one pass or burn up.

I think I have it worked out. I should be able to do the same thing with the router but use the “drop” or negative side of what I’ve cut off. Works in my head anyway!

[Balding Kansan]

It worked. Waiting on the hose plugs from big Jim and some new wedges from Kenny and we’ll be set.

[Mad Max]

Check to see if the routed area is square to the sides all the way down.