T/D recurve help-along

[Balding Kansan]

Done.

Do you apply the smooth on to both mating surfaces or just 1 side?

[kennym]

Both sides of every mating surface.  Maybe I should say  all but the exterior  surface of glass. 

[OldRawhide42]

I put tape on the washers and wax them. It stopes them from sticking to the limb.

[Balding Kansan]

10-4 thanks guys.

[Balding Kansan]

I think I’m ready.

[Shredd]

   Are you sure??   

Have a rag or two handy for wiping off your hands and such...  I am not sure if it was mentioned or discussed earlier, but are you gonna pin the lams to the form?? Pretty important for accurate alignment...

  Things should go relatively easy... You are only building half a bow...   

   Good Luck and enjoy...

[Balding Kansan]

Dang it! I forgot the pinning part!!!! Mad man max told me to, just completely forgot. Sad part is, I was thinking I needed to do it before I started then I got excited and pressed onward.

[Balding Kansan]

It turned out really good, I think. Everything looks flush and aligned.

The pinning part for the next limb, I was going to put a toothpick thru the stack at the butt end. Is that correct?

Can I lightly tap these epoxy buggers off the edge of the limb or will pull the wood off with it?

[Mad Max]

I've never used a tooth pick before.
what king of belt sander do you have? or a rasp will work

[Mad Max]

I do use 1/8" dowel from Lowes on my 1 piece recurves on the belly ramps.
I use a centering jig to drill 1/4" hole in the form and the lam stack
https://www.amazon.com/Center-Dowel-Self-Centering-Doweling-Drilling/dp/B081RGDJ28

[Balding Kansan]

I've never used a tooth pick before.
what king of belt sander do you have? or a rasp will work

I don’t have a belt sander yet, but am planning on getting one.

Got the 2nd limb glued up this afternoon and into the ‘99 F-150 oven.

[Shredd]

You can take a hand held belt sander and clamp it on it's side... Inspect sander before you buy it and make sure you have places to clamp it and it will be able to lay flat... Next step up would be a harbor freight 6 x 48" sander and secure it on it's side... I done it and a few other guys done it... Works well...

 Tooth pick should work... There is very little shear but you might want to go a hair thicker to be on the safe side...  I have a hole in my form and use a 4 penny nail... The good thing about using a nail is that it is metal and if any epoxy squeezed over to the nail, you just heat it with a lighter and it will pull right out...

[Mad Max]

Good tip on the nail Shredd

[Balding Kansan]

You can take a hand held belt sander and clamp it on it's side... Inspect sander before you buy it and make sure you have places to clamp it and it will be able to lay flat... Next step up would be a harbor freight 6 x 48" sander and secure it on it's side... I done it and a few other guys done it... Works well...

 Tooth pick should work... There is very little shear but you might want to go a hair thicker to be on the safe side...  I have a hole in my form and use a 4 penny nail... The good thing about using a nail is that it is metal and if any epoxy squeezed over to the nail, you just heat it with a lighter and it will pull right out...

That’s good stuff, thank you.

[Shredd]

 

[Balding Kansan]

Looking ahead here to my next step, other than finding a belt sander.

I guess I should get my riser block cleaned up from the epoxy squeeze out and cut my limb pad angles (18 degrees). To do this I was thinking I’d run them through the table saw/miter gauge unless someone has some objections. I wondered how the blade would like cutting that epoxy?

Then I was looking at those centering jigs, but the takedown insert size isn’t available in the jigs I was looking at. So I thought order one anyway and redrill it to the correct size. Or add a bushing of the correct size.

[Mad Max]

Table saw will work, Carbide will cut right threw it.
The blade needs to be really square.
Rough cut the angles first then finish cut about a 1/16"
27/64" (.421)--7/16" (.437) close enough for a 1/2"-13 insert.
you need a 1/2"-13 tap too.

Do you have the 1/2"-13 insert?

[Balding Kansan]

Table saw will work, Carbide will cut right threw it.
The blade needs to be really square.
Rough cut the angles first then finish cut about a 1/16"
27/64" (.421)--7/16" (.437) close enough for a 1/2"-13 insert.
you need a 1/2"-13 tap too.

Do you have the 1/2"-13 insert?

Yes I have the inserts and I have the tap as well. Do you use smooth on the set the inserts? Or something else.

[Crooked Stic]

I been using CA for inserts.

[Mad Max]

Use the smooth on for the inserts because your going to have a little bit looser fit.