T/D recurve help-along

[Balding Kansan]

You can take a hand held belt sander and clamp it on it's side... Inspect sander before you buy it and make sure you have places to clamp it and it will be able to lay flat... Next step up would be a harbor freight 6 x 48" sander and secure it on it's side... I done it and a few other guys done it... Works well...

 Tooth pick should work... There is very little shear but you might want to go a hair thicker to be on the safe side...  I have a hole in my form and use a 4 penny nail... The good thing about using a nail is that it is metal and if any epoxy squeezed over to the nail, you just heat it with a lighter and it will pull right out...

Any reason to shy away from an oscillating belt/spindle sander?

[Mad Max]

At a later date you can make a pattern sander with it

This is mine


Longer shaft with 3 flats so it wont slip in the  chuck.
See the rub collar and the bearing for the hole to the right

[Shredd]

I am not familiar with them...  Maybe someone else will chime in...  They kinda look rinky-dink to me and maybe for a hobbyist...  And if it is not operating at a perfect 90* you are just gonna have to buy another tool that does and that is adjustable so you can fine tune the angle...

[OldRawhide42]

I think your belt / spindle sander would work if it is square.  It also helps if you keep the angles the same.

I have a ridge belt/spindle sander and it is NOT square to the table.

[Mad Max]

Find a belt sander like Shredd said to mount it on it's side.
Most people have a edge sander.
Mine get's used more than any tool in the shop $850.00 when I bought it.
Btw what tools do you have in your shop?

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-6-x-80-edge-sander-w-wrap-around-table/g0512

[Balding Kansan]

Find a belt sander like Shredd said to mount it on it's side.
Most people have a edge sander.
Mine get's used more than any tool in the shop $850.00 when I bought it.
Btw what tools do you have in your shop?

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-6-x-80-edge-sander-w-wrap-around-table/g0512

That grizzly edge sander is pretty awesome, but probably not practical for me for a few bows a year. Nothing special as far as tools in my shop: 10” table saw, 10” sliding chop saw, 12” bandsaw (that I absolutely hate), palm sanders, hand stuff, overhead crane/trolley (does that help? Haha), framing guns, finish guns, real guns, 13” planer, Probably some other stuff tucked away somewhere collecting dust.

[Mad Max]

Drill press?

[Balding Kansan]

Drill press?

Nope! No drill press.

6” Joiner! That’s the one I forgot. Built somewhere around the year 1829. Weighs about 1.5 tons. 

[Balding Kansan]

I have an idea……..why not under mount a spindle sander with a fence setup for a guide? Like the sketch.

[OldRawhide42]

I think a table saw then the jointer .

[Birdbow76]

I've got a 6x89" edge sander, a 4x48" combo and the Ridgid oscillating edge sander and find it to be the most versatile. For $269 it works pretty good and I know alot of bowyers use them. If you don't abuse it and use a good quality belt one will last for several years. The thing I like about the Ridgid sander is it's big enough to profile limbs and small enough to shape handles.

[Mad Max]

I have an idea……..why not under mount a spindle sander with a fence setup for a guide? Like the sketch.

The sanding sleeve will clog up really fast, a belt will work much better.
I've been down that road before.

[Shredd]

I have an idea……..why not under mount a spindle sander with a fence setup for a guide? Like the sketch.

The sanding sleeve will clog up really fast, a belt will work much better.
I've been down that road before.

   True, True...  Go with the belt...

[Balding Kansan]

You got it. I’ll find something here in the next day or so.

So I guess my next step is to sand the glue off the limb edges. My lams are 1.75” so I’m guessing I need to be super careful I don’t dig into the actual limb any. And get the riser block cleaned up. Then cut the limb pads, which we already discussed.

My centering jig came in today, it appears better than I expected but I’ll test it out on some scrap to check if it’s really centered.

[Shredd]

  Good stuff...     We be watching you...  Don't screw up..!!   

[Balding Kansan]

I can’t handle this pressure!

[Shredd]

I can’t handle this pressure!

You'll do fine... Take your time and enjoy the process...  We are all pulling for you...

[Balding Kansan]

I picked up the rigid oscillating belt. Out of the box it was not squared up with the table, but a couple minutes with the instructions and it’s good to go.

I think I’ll start with 80 grit and get the limb edges close, then switch to 120 to get a little closer. Maybe finish down to the actual limb with a block by hand.

[Mad Max]

 

[Shredd]

   If you are taking off snot, use 50 to 60 grit and start out sanding your limbs on a slight angle to the platen or use the roller on the belt sander ... It will remove it a lot faster... When getting close to the limb then use the flat of the platen... Stay with 50 or 60 grit and just take your time and be careful...  After you cut your limbs out still sand with 60 grit until your almost to the line then go to 120...