T/D recurve help-along

[kenboonejr]

I picked up the rigid oscillating belt. Out of the box it was not squared up with the table, but a couple minutes with the instructions and it’s good to go.

I think I’ll start with 80 grit and get the limb edges close, then switch to 120 to get a little closer. Maybe finish down to the actual limb with a block by hand.

So I am in the process of my first one also.  It was a little intimidating how much built up epoxy was on the edge of the limbs when it came out of the press.  I was a little scared of taking off too much of the limb.  However, now that I have done it I will tell you I had plenty of room cause what goes in the press is a little larger than the final limb shape.  But when I first was doing it I was a little stressed thinking I would take too much off.  I ended up using 40 grit on a belt sander and it was great.  Gets it off fast and still had plenty of room to work with the limb shape.

I am down to finishing my riser now so hope to be completed soon.

[Balding Kansan]

Thanks guys!

Hey how narrow can I go on limb width? I’m at 1.75 now, but need to take a little more off.

[Balding Kansan]

How bout you pay shipping? Final offer!

Kenny 1/4" thick 9" long, taper  3-1/2"
3-1/2" tapered --1/2" from the taper to the riser and 5" for  the flat.
If you not made it all ready

Need to revisit this part, how much of a pad am I aiming for? I thought we were going with 4”, but looks like I have about 5.5” worth of flat area on the wedge.

[Mad Max]

How bout you pay shipping? Final offer!

Kenny 1/4" thick 9" long, taper  3-1/2"
3-1/2" tapered --1/2" from the taper to the riser and 5" for  the flat.
If you not made it all ready

Need to revisit this part, how much of a pad am I aiming for? I thought we were going with 4”, but looks like I have about 5.5” worth of flat area on the wedge.

4”
See the line where the wedge startes to taper, you want a 1/2” from there to the end of the riser

[Buemaker]

I use 1 39/64 width on my recurve limbs.I use 1 3/4 glass and lams.

[Mad Max]

Taper the last 8" from the NOCK to 3/4" first, then we will see what it looks like braced

[Balding Kansan]

Thanks guys.

I have not cut my limb tips off yet. They’re still 2” longer than design. I assume I should cut them off then do your 8” taper?

[Mad Max]

I taper 1st the cut them off, less width to cut off
Doesn't really matter
 

[Balding Kansan]

I feel like I got a lot done today. Cut the limb pads - used my miter saw and despite squaring the blade up to the table before the cut, it still didn’t come out square. I think it may have deflected a little on the phenolic. But I got them squared up on the belt sander.
Then I proceeded to mount the limbs. I used a fairly cheap jig and it showed its inconsistencies but with some tweaking they came out fine. First 1/2” insert went in just fine. The 2nd got stuck on me and was sticking out about an 1/8”. So I ground it off flush. I don’t know if the CA setup too quick or what but it hit
A wall and wouldn’t thread anymore.
Then with a string line and a square I lined the limb tips up with centerline of the riser and drilled the index pins. Set them in CA, Coated the other end with wax and mounted the limbs again before the CA setup.
That’s where I left off for the day.
My concerns: 1. while the limbs are mounted and the riser laying on its belly on a flat table, one limb (lower) touches the table and the upper does not. Apparently my limb pad angles have some deviation, can this be corrected with tillering? I shoot 3 under if that helps out any?
2. When I was drilling the Bolt holes the drill bit blew out some of the fiberglass on the backside of the limb butt. I was going to soak it in a little superglue or leave it alone? It’s not really bad at all.
Overall I’m very pleased with how it all fit up.
Again, sorry about the crooked pictures.

[Balding Kansan]

Pictures

[Balding Kansan]

.

[Mad Max]

Use super glue on the blow out
lets see a side view of the bow on the table

[Balding Kansan]

Use super glue on the blow out
lets see a side view of the bow on the table

You may not be able to see it, but the left limb is actually lifting the riser block just a little off the table. The right limb clears the table by a tiny bit.

[Mad Max]

If you put your limbs beside each other do the tips and bolt holes line up?
I believe it will be OK, you may have 1 limb longer than the other or the limb pad may be off a little.

[4 point]

I think you’ll be fine. I don’t think I’d mark your nocks off the riser center line with out making sure one limb isn’t gonna be shorter than the other. I would mark your nocks measuring from the limb butt then check the center of your nock to nock measurement. One thing I do see is your bolt head looks close to the top edge of the riser block. Might cause problems when you shape your riser. Could just look that way from the picture angle.

[4 point]

Sorry Max posted while I was typing. We kinda said the same thing.

[Balding Kansan]

If you put your limbs beside each other do the tips and bolt holes line up?
I believe it will be OK, you may have 1 limb longer than the other or the limb pad may be off a little.

Yes, the limbs mirror each other perfectly.

[Balding Kansan]

I think you’ll be fine. I don’t think I’d mark your nocks off the riser center line with out making sure one limb isn’t gonna be shorter than the other. I would mark your nocks measuring from the limb butt then check the center of your nock to nock measurement. One thing I do see is your bolt head looks close to the top edge of the riser block. Might cause problems when you shape your riser. Could just look that way from the picture angle.

I think I’m following you, but The limbs are the same (laid side by side) so I don’t think this would apply correct? And yes, I’m kicking myself for not putting the bolts down further. Lesson learned on that one.

[Mad Max]

Lets keep going
1st bow is always a learning lesion
Lay out and sand you tip taper as accurate as you can

[Mad Max]

Do you have 2 dowels on each end?

what stack taper did you use .002 or .003?