T/D recurve help-along

[Balding Kansan]

Do you have 2 dowels on each end?

1 dowel at each limb.

[Balding Kansan]

Lets keep going
1st bow is always a learning lesion
Lay out and sand you tip taper as accurate as you can

I need to double check a couple things with this. 8” from the nocks, I got that part. How much should I leave from limb tip to nocks? I laid out an inch, but that seemed like a lot. And at what width am I aiming for at the nocks?

[4 point]

If your limb holes measure the same it’s your limb pad angle. It’ll all work out. Might just take a little more tillering.

[Mad Max]

x2 what 4 point said

What stack taper did kenny send you .002 or .003?

3/4" and 3/4"

[Shredd]

Use super glue on the blow out
lets see a side view of the bow on the table

You may not be able to see it, but the left limb is actually lifting the riser block just a little off the table. The right limb clears the table by a tiny bit.

 Try switching your limbs, top for bottom... if you get the same results it's your limb pad angle...  You'll be fine...  If it works with your tillering make the side that riser lifts off the table the top of the bow... since the riser is already tilted it will be more in line with the angle of your grip...

[Balding Kansan]

Use super glue on the blow out
lets see a side view of the bow on the table

You may not be able to see it, but the left limb is actually lifting the riser block just a little off the table. The right limb clears the table by a tiny bit.

 Try switching your limbs, top for bottom... if you get the same results it's your limb pad angle...  You'll be fine...  If it works with your tillering make the side that riser lifts off the table the top of the bow... since the riser is already tilted it will be more in line with the angle of your grip...

That’s a good idea, but I intentionally drilled the index pins different! Seemed like a good idea at the time. Maybe not so much now.

[Balding Kansan]

x2 what 4 point said

What stack taper did kenny send you .002 or .003?

3/4" and 3/4"

Looks like .242 stack and .002 taper. If I’m reading the invoice right.

[Mad Max]

With a .002 you need to taper the whole limbs.
I will get back to you

[Mad Max]

6" from the nock make it 1.4 ( fat 1-3/8" ) wide, taper to the riser end 1.75 wide
then taper the last 6" to the nock .750 (3/4")
Lay these lines out as close a possible

[Balding Kansan]

6" from the nock make it 1.4 ( fat 1-3/8" ) wide, taper to the riser end 1.75 wide
then taper the last 6" to the nock .750 (3/4")
Lay these lines out as close a possible

Got it, and thanks for the clarification on the 1.4”, that threw me off a bit! Kinda like when Bue said he finishes his limb widths down the the 64th’s, you all are working on a level of tolerances my brain doesn’t comprehend and my equipment isn’t capable of doing!!

[Mad Max]

 

[Balding Kansan]

I got the limbs laid out but not cut yet.

And started some riser layout. I think it looks pretty sharp considering I free handed it and I have zero artistic abilities. I set the deep part of the handle at the centerline of the riser, the shelf 1.25” above that. Handle depth at 1.75”. Then just started making lines until it looked like something.

Oh, almost forgot, I marked the site window 1/8” past center. I assume I could get away with that and not break anything. We (Kenny) offset that I beam to keep more of it in the riser and less taken out in the window cutout.

[Mad Max]

Check it 10 times cut it once
 

[Shredd]

 

[OldRawhide42]

I would only cut it to center. Then sand the rest just to be safe.

[kennym]

Yes, cut shallower than you plan to go, so you can radius the corner of shelf.  Helps strength...

Also you can radius back to belly a bit if you like, and I like to make a higher spot on shelf right above low part of grip.

[Balding Kansan]

Yes, cut shallower than you plan to go, so you can radius the corner of shelf.  Helps strength...

Also you can radius back to belly a bit if you like, and I like to make a higher spot on shelf right above low part of grip.

Yes sir, I’ve reviewed your website build a few times. I’m on board with everything except the part where you freehand the site window through the table saw. I don’t have the stones for that maneuver!! I may try my sliding miter saw though to do the same thing.

[Shredd]

  That sliding miter... I hope hope you can lock it for depth of cut while you slide it...  Not familiar with them...

  I cut all my windows on the proud side of half way and then sand down and slightly round off the whole window...

[Balding Kansan]

  That sliding miter... I hope hope you can lock it for depth of cut while you slide it...  Not familiar with them...

  I cut all my windows on the proud side of half way and then sand down and slightly round off the whole window...

Yes, it has depth stops. I’ll take it easy.

[kennym]

Try to cut glass into wood so it doesn't pull glass slivers off.  Don't ask how I know that! 

Same with hand sanding edges of limbs, always go from center to end, glass has fibers kinda like wood grain, you can pick up a sliver under edge of paper.  Don't ask how I know that...