BANDSAW BLADES

[Sologuy]

Guys...What are you using for bandsaw blades to cut out bow after glue up ? Im referring to fiberglass lam bows btw. Im wondering about cut quality vs burning/ sharpness, longevity....
Also...1/2" blade most use I assume ??

BTW, I have a 14" Shopfox Bandsaw

Thanks  guys

[jess stuart]

I haven't used my saw to cut out limbs in years.  I cut the sight window out before glue up.  I wrap it in plastic wrap put it back in place, glue up.  Grin the limbs to shape, it's works for me.  Blades last much longer too.

[Shredd]

   I cut the limb tapers with a table saw and the riser with a 3/8" or 1/4" bandsaw blade... the blade gets trashed from the glass but I can still cut about 10 risers out with 1 blade...

[Mad Max]

I use a 4-1/2" hand grinder 36 grit to rough shape the limb taper and finish on a edge sander.
The only time I used a band saw to cut the site window it wondered off on the bottom side.

[mmattockx]

   I cut the limb tapers with a table saw and the riser with a 3/8" or 1/4" bandsaw blade... the blade gets trashed from the glass but I can still cut about 10 risers out with 1 blade...

What tooth count on the blade?

The only time I used a band saw to cut the site window it wondered off on the bottom side.

How do you cut the window then?


Mark

[Shredd]

 I'll have to look... I am guessing 6 tpi...  And a high tooth count on a 7"  or smaller circular saw blade...

[Sologuy]

   I cut the limb tapers with a table saw and the riser with a 3/8" or 1/4" bandsaw blade... the blade gets trashed from the glass but I can still cut about 10 risers out with 1 blade...

Wow... a table saw for limbs..... thats seems crazy lol...obviously they are flat... my form has a lot of R/D

[kennym]

You can buy a high dollar carbide blade for your bandsaw , guys say they cut 200 bows out with them.  I haven't had quite that but OK ...

I rough grind the limb edge tapers with 36 grit on a 6" disc sander.  10 minutes on a bow to rough in. Then final on my edge sander with 40 grit.  Limb can get hot on that one so slooow...

I never cut glass with my bandsaw anymore. 

I cut the sight window with multiple passes on table saw.  Always cutting glass into wood.  Do part from one side and finish by turning bow around.

[kenboonejr]

I cut the sight window with multiple passes on table saw.  Always cutting glass into wood.  Do part from one side and finish by turning bow around.

So you are running the riser perpendicular to the blade then and just cut it kerf by kerf to cut it out?  I cut mine on the bandsaw and had the same problem @MAD MAX had in that the lower part of the blade ran out to far on me.

[kennym]

Yes, I mark the desired window on both back and belly, then stand behind the saw and pull the bow to me.  Only cut to line on first side, then turn bow around and cut from other side to keep cutting from glass into wood so it doesn't rip glass off the bow.

I'm not advising doing it this way, just saying it's how I do it.   

Use an old carbide blade with more teeth than my usual 24 tooth for ripping woods.

[Sologuy]

Yes, I mark the desired window on both back and belly, then stand behind the saw and pull the bow to me.  Only cut to line on first side, then turn bow around and cut from other side to keep cutting from glass into wood so it doesn't rip glass off the bow.

I'm not advising doing it this way, just saying it's how I do it.   

Use an old carbide blade with more teeth than my usual 24 tooth for ripping woods.

Your a brave man lol... BTW...Im the one who sent order for materials and talked to you about Dale Stahl,CNC...etc....  jfyi

[kennym]

Yep I sent an email this morn 

[mmattockx]

I'll have to look... I am guessing 6 tpi...

Do you think a higher tooth count more like a metal blade would last longer?

Yes, I mark the desired window on both back and belly, then stand behind the saw and pull the bow to me.

This could be done using a crosscut sled for those that are worried about the safety aspect of it.


Mark

[Shredd]

I tried the metal blade... I don't think I liked them... I think they may have clogged up and seem not to last much longer...

[Flem]

Stic uses a Lennox Bi-metal blade and his results look good. Personally, I don't want glass dust in my bandsaw, even though its a P.O.S.

[Sologuy]

Stic uses a Lennox Bi-metal blade and his results look good. Personally, I don't want glass dust in my bandsaw, even though its a P.O.S.

I have a bandsaw dedicated mainly to cut bows...glass...   Its a matter of blade now.... Is he using carbide tooth blade from Lennox ? I have Lenox CT on my 'wood bandsaw'

[Horsey]

The Lennox Tri-Master, 3TPI is the way to go.  I know I have cut out more than 100 bows per blade.  I use mine on a 14" Jet bandsaw.  Make sure to buy the 1/2" blade and not the 3/8".  For some reason the 3/8" blades are made from thicker stock than the 1/2" ( I know that doesn't seem right). The thicker blade does not handle the small diameter wheels on the 14" saw and blade breakage will occur quickly.

--Mike

[Mad Max]

I had a cutoff band saw when I did my Ironwork and the Lennox blades were the way to go.
I bought some cheep ones one time and threw them in the scrap bend after about 2 days.

[Sologuy]

The Lennox Tri-Master, 3TPI is the way to go.  I know I have cut out more than 100 bows per blade.  I use mine on a 14" Jet bandsaw.  Make sure to buy the 1/2" blade and not the 3/8".  For some reason the 3/8" blades are made from thicker stock than the 1/2" ( I know that doesn't seem right). The thicker blade does not handle the small diameter wheels on the 14" saw and blade breakage will occur quickly.

--Mike

Thanks...Think Ill go with it

[Flem]

That good to know, Horsey. Never thought about thickness of the blades