No Need to bareshaft wood arrows???

[frassettor]

I contacted Black Widow about some woodies.. They reffered me to one of the nicest fellas that is doing their arrows now. I told him what I will be shootin  and he told me either 65-70, or 80-85 spined arrows will work. He is sending me a couple of arrows to try I asked him about bareshaft tuning the wood arrows and he said no need to, you just have to have them 2 inches past your riser.  Not that I am doubting him, he had to go before I had the chance to ask him "why". I dont have enough experience to know myself, .... So does this make sense?, and why .

Thank You

[Stringwacker]

My experiance is that wood shoots with great results in a much wider range than aluminum and carbon.

With carbon or aluminum, I am a bareshaft disciple of extreme as I have found that I need it to be matched perfectly to the bow for me to get good arrow flight.

On the other hand, wood seems to shoot great within a 20 pound range of *ideal*  Wood can be bareshafted to get close to the ideal spine though I find the natural vairances of the wood tend to prevent a perfect match. Regardless, the ideal 5 pound spine group can be found quite easily.

I'm sure that the fellow would send you arrows that will fly well. As far as just needing it to be two more inches...we'll I haven't heard the merits of that.

[Charlie Cole]

I just use feathers.

(poke, poke.)

Seriously, though, I've never bareshafted wood arrows. Stringwacker's probably right on this one, but I'm sure somebody with more experience can give a more definite answer.

-Charlie

[frassettor]

Im shootin a 58 lb  BW  PLX longbow  If that matters.

[R H Clark]

I think some folks who have a lot of experience can pick wood or aluminum shafts that will be very close.Maby he has spined enough Widow bows at different draw lengths that he knows what he is doing.

I always bareshaft carbon because just a little difference in length really changes spine.

[Brian Krebs]

oh good grief.........

[Aggie1993]

I shoot cedar and do not bareshaft them.  I shoot 57-59@29" with an 8125 14-strand string and my 70-75lb cedars 30.5" with 125-160 tips shoot well out of my bows both RC and LB.  He's in the ball park.

[The Whittler]

I would say the 2", is 1" taper for point and 1" for clearance.

[snag]

Why not bareshaft them? If that gives you a more accurate read on the shaft and it's length and tip weight that will fly the best out of your bow...why not?

[bigcountry]

I find bareshafting POC can give bad results.  I think its just the difference between shaft spines.  It will tell if your spine is grossly off however.  

I have shot thru paper however POC at 4 yards (centershot bow) and pick out the ones with a good tear. This has worked for me.  

Later I took the arrows that showed a bad tear and tested on a spine meter and saw they were way off advertised values.  

These were 3Rivers stuff.

[ChuckC]

If cedars are very out of "tune" you can and will break them as they whack into the target.  Been there..
ChuckC

[woodchucker]

I wouldn't waste my time.....Some of my best shooting arrows look like corkscrews  

[Whip]

This is kind of a guess as to what he might have been saying, but maybe he was trying to explain that 80-85 spined arrows that are cut 2" longer will fly approximately the same as 65-70's that are cut closer to your actual draw length.  It definately is true that longer arrows will act like a lower spine arrow that is cut shorter.
What is your bow weight and true draw length?

[myshootinstinks]

I don't bare-shaft wood at all, just fletch 'em up let 'em fly. Any tuning I do w/ different tip weights or by the length.

[James Wrenn]

I am anal about tuneing and bareshafting.  I however do not bareshaft wood arrows.There is just not enough consitancy in them for it to be worth while to me.I use bigger feathers on wood and just tune with point weight/length or amount of centershot untill they look good going down range.jmo

[WidowEater]

ive heard wood arrows tune better out of longbows that are cut well before center and maybe this is the reason behind that

[hill boy]

I think he knows what he's talking about.Bare shaft them and see.I recently ordered shafts from a well known arrow builder and he told me the same thing.Well I bare shafted them and he's right.As long as you given him he proper info.

[Roadkill]

it's what we do all winter to have fun!  Hunt rabbits every Sunday, play with bow/arrow combinations on Sat at the local shop.  Drive the wheel bow shooters crazy on how accurate a bareshaft is at 20 yards out of longbows and recurves.

[Bjorn]

Think about the BW order process.
It would be too hard for the arrow builder to suggest that you bareshaft-he would take too long to get the order; and he has to eat too.
So he has to find a way around bareshafting; and he has.
But if you are rolling your own bareshafting is the simplest, most accurate way to good arrow flight.

[Daddy Bear]

I'm very low tech on my tuning methods for my hunting longbow. To me, it's a hunting arrow and the most important thing is broadhead flight. I do not see how anyone can reliably predict the effect a broadhead will have on a shaft that was tuned using a field point and no feathers. I can see this bareshaft tuning being valid if you intend to shoot field points, but I don't see its validity if you are ending up w/ a broadhead and big feathers.

I start w/ the hunting head I intend to use for the game I seek, I choose the biggest feathers I can get away with, I choose a shaft that gives me the strength and weight I'm striving for, and I try to choose a spine that gives me room to remove length until I reach a point the arrow goes around my handle and flies straight down range. When I reach this point, I know this arrow will shoot field points equally well.

Daddy Bear