Staining birds eye for veneers?

[oldandslow]

Looking for some tips for staining for a glass bow veneer.
I'm thinking water based is better?
Like to hear from your experience...

[Flem]

Nitrates, specifically Ferric Nitrate. Other nitrate solutions will work also. Gun guys use a diluted, expensive version on stocks. This is for a deep carmel brown. If you are looking for a variety of colors, Aniline dyes for water, work great.

[Jeff Freeman]

I've done with alcohol base stains. Turned out great

[oldandslow]

I've done with alcohol base stains. Turned out great

Yes of course. I'm just.assuming oil based may prove less then optimal for epoxy bond

[Jeff Freeman]

You are correct.I wouldn't use an oil base

[katalyzt]

I've used Keta Dye on Curly Maple with good results. 

It's really easy.  I just mixed mine in water and rubbed on with a folded up cloth square.  It's a bit hard to tell in the pic but I was able to do a fade from orange to red and that's pretty much my 2nd go at it so it's pretty easy stuff.  Fun too.

[Mad Max]

I think water  base can pernitrate better on veneers .030 will dry in 3 or 4  days in low humidity

[oldandslow]

I've used Keta Dye on Curly Maple with good results. 

It's really easy.  I just mixed mine in water and rubbed on with a folded up cloth square.  It's a bit hard to tell in the pic but I was able to do a fade from orange to red and that's pretty much my 2nd go at it so it's pretty easy stuff.  Fun too.

That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer.  Something really bright. Just because.

[oldandslow]

I think water  base can pernitrate better on veneers .030 will dry in 3 or 4  days in low humidity

I did some googling and found water based can penetrate very well. Gonna go with aniline dye. I have enuf of the maple to try several colors. Probably do up a few and pick the best ones

[katalyzt]

That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer.  Something really bright. Just because.

Go for it and then post your results. You can get all sorts of bright colors. One tip I would give is that if you want it really bright then just try putting a drop of the dye straight onto the cloth square and just rub it in. 

[oldandslow]

That's nice. I was thinking along the same lines, to make a bright blue or red veneer.  Something really bright. Just because.

Go for it and then post your results. You can get all sorts of bright colors. One tip I would give is that if you want it really bright then just try putting a drop of the dye straight onto the cloth square and just rub it in.

Thanks. There is also a local wood supplier who seem to experiment alot with colors and dyes. They do the resin tables and such. They carry the water soluble dyed in various colors. I'm sure they'd be a good reference for what I want to achieve

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Please post up your results!

I just brought home some quilted maple and a large slab of quilted ambrosia maple.

I want to die or darken the quilted to make it pop more. Problem is, in the riser, I want to do a mix of quilted maple and morado walnut.

I need to die the maple slightly but want to do that before gluing up the riser.

Will dye penetrate enough to stand the Sanding and shaping needed on the riser?

[oldandslow]

So far my progress has been slow.
The darker stains hide the birdseye and I wasnt pleased with the result.  Looked kinda muddy.
I think a lite color will work better.
From what I have seen the analine dye doesnt penetrate a lot

[Mark R]

Try using some tru oil on a sample, rub in 5-8 sparingly coats, it should make the grain pop, stain or no stain.

[Mad Max]

So far my progress has been slow.
The darker stains hide the birdseye and I wasnt pleased with the result.  Looked kinda muddy.
I think a lite color will work better.
From what I have seen the analine dye doesnt penetrate a lot

It's a hard wood, the water base will go deeper

[Richard Korte]

I’ve stained a lot of veneers using Transtint Dyes dissolved in alcohol, especially curly and quilted Maple. If you try to stain a thin veneer, it will curl or warp as it dries. I mill the veneers I plan to dye fairly thick, about 1/8” or so. I splice them together with superglue and run them through my drum sander using fine sandpaper, 180 or 220 grit, sanding only the side I plan to dye. After dyeing, I allow them to dry thoroughly, then run them through the sander, using 60 grit on the un-dyed surface, to take them down to my desired thickness. I use a 6’ long by 4” wide piece of vertical grained Bamboo flooring as my sled, and I applied self stick drywall sanding sheets to the sled to prevent the lams from sliding while running them though the drum sander. I always dye and mill my veneers first in the building process. That tells my how thick my Bamboo cores should be to attain my desired stack. Works fo me!      Richard

[oldandslow]

I was under the impression that I needed to have a rough surface for glue up?

I had considered dyeing a larger piece and then when dried...just bandsaw out what I needed.

I have seen what happens when dyeing thin veneer.
Curls nicely 😳

Thanks for your reply

[Jeff Freeman]

Good to see you here Richard. I knew you have dyed a lot of veneers and they have turned out great. I've seen them in person. I own and shot them also. JF

[Flem]

I was under the impression that I needed to have a rough surface for glue up?

Urban lore, or Bowyer's lore. Originated from the observation that all the glue was being squeezed out in the massive wood and metal forms with 70psi firehoses. Needed some trenches to retain some adhesive.
Ask any fine furniture maker, from the last few hundred years, what their joints look like prior to glue up.

[oldandslow]

I was under the impression that I needed to have a rough surface for glue up?

Urban lore, or Bowyer's lore. Originated from the observation that all the glue was being squeezed out in the massive wood and metal forms with 70psi firehoses. Needed some trenches to retain some adhesive.
Ask any fine furniture maker, from the last few hundred years, what their joints look like prior to glue up.

I've done numerous glue ups with planed wood.
I guess it's the epoxy that somehow I understood needed some grooves. Wood glue benefits from that tight fit because of capillary action...doesnt smooth on recommend 80 grit?
Just looking for clarity. Obviously Richard is having success!