The tiller isn't off by much in these photos, but the draw weight is 5 pounds over my finished product, and i like it like that.
During the course of bringing the draw weight down and balancing the limbs i work both the sides and sand the glass belly and back. For this lower draw weight bow my .040 glass is a bit on the heavy side, and i will end up with about .035 belly and back and that will lighten the limb mass. The draw weight difference on sanding glass is about 1# for every .002 of glass sanded. So if i slowly bring it down .010 i'll be really close to my desired draw weight.
Once i drop below 36# draw weight I could easily use .030 glass for strength, but i don't do it. You loose a lot of limb stability with thinner glass. .035 is about as far as i want to go on those light draw weight limbs.....
With recurve limbs with an aggressive hook like i use on my SS design, there is a magic number on limb thickness i must maintain to keep those limbs from going sideways too easily. Right at the base of the hook if that limb thickness gets below .190 the limbs start getting seriously squirrely. So i use a par instead of my typical .001 taper to get a thicker limb out there where i need it. On a 25-30# set of limbs i'll use a reverse taper to thicken that section at the base of the hook....... Yes.... i'm loosing performance, but a with a target weight recurve stability trumps arrow speed. Kirk