2022 what did you do today?

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Glasses! Weird thing is , it was only a section.  I will measure more places from now on! Not just the ends.

[Longcruise]

Today (and yesterday and probably tomorrow  ) I'm contemplating this ebiara. Shows a lot of porosity after the first whiskering.  First time with this wood so any finishing tips appreciated!

Not as much character as expected.  It does show much better wet.

[Mad Max]

Recurve in the hot box



2 Shoshone Big Horns in the workings



Bocote veneers from KennyM

[Buggs]

Today (and yesterday and probably tomorrow  ) I'm contemplating this ebiara. Shows a lot of porosity after the first whiskering.  First time with this wood so any finishing tips appreciated!

Not as much character as expected.  It does show much better wet.

You going to seal and fill?    Not familiar with that wood and it porosity. If it is porous, you could use a contrasting pore filler to add visual interest.

[Longcruise]

Today (and yesterday and probably tomorrow  ) I'm contemplating this ebiara. Shows a lot of porosity after the first whiskering.  First time with this wood so any finishing tips appreciated!

Not as much character as expected.  It does show much better wet.

You going to seal and fill?    Not familiar with that wood and it porosity. If it is porous, you could use a contrasting pore filler to add visual interest.

The contrasting sealer might be good.  I'm kinda rethinking it and maybe seal with clear shellac cut 50-50.

Heres a  wet look.

[Kirkll]

He has good eyes! Got it cleaned up and profiled. It is 5 though thicker in one area about 8 inches long

Hopefully I can work that out on the tiller board.
Spent yesterday evening figuring out how I did that and then kicking myself for lack of quality control in such a critical stage.

Turns out my lam sander adjustment nob will "self rotate' due to vibration during the long lam sands. Going to make a nylon nut to use as a locking device...

Great eye Kirk! I will post pics on the tiller board hopefully  this weekend.

I don’t know what system you use for grinding lams, or what type of drum sander or edge sander you are using. But getting nice consistency in your lams is a must.

I use a drum sander , and all my sleds are precision machined aluminum. Believe it or not you can still screw up lams if you mix and match different runs.  I typically mill 20-40 .001 and .0015 at the same time. This covers my RC and hybrid designs. my Flatliner takes a pair of .002 lams and I mill a bunch of those at the same time too.

The trick to precise thicknesses is getting your lams close, and flipping them every pass, and running them in the same location on the conveyor belt. The last pass through I flip the lam again without changing the depth.

Good fresh 36-40 grit paper helps a lot, and cleaning the paper now and then with a giant eraser…. What ever they call those.

 Loaded up sand paper, a booger on your conveyor belt, or even sawdust under your sled can make a .05 difference in a short section of your lam.

Once you start coming in within a 1/4” tiller difference every time, you got it down….. from what I see in that photo, you could have as much as 1.5” difference top and bottom.     Kirk

[Mad Max]

36 to 40 grit paper 

I use 80 grit

EA-40 website said 120

[Kirkll]

I used to use 80 on veneers, but after forgetting to change the paper a few times I realized that 40 grit works just fine on those too.

On sanding glass and carbon,  I did use 80 grit when I was building a lot of carbon limbs. It worked well sanding the foam cores too. but I quit messing with that stuff. Totally unnecessary for building high performance bows.

You’ll find some guys that will argue about needing a smoother surface with epoxy and no need for “tooth”, but I disagree with that theory, and have had many years of trouble free success with using heavy grit on laminations.    Kirk

[Buggs]

You’ll find some guys that will argue about needing a smoother surface with epoxy and no need for “tooth”, but I disagree with that theory, and have had many years of trouble free success with using heavy grit on laminations.    Kirk

That myth has been debunked over and over, in fact it was discussed and debunked in a thread you started;

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=178730.0

[B-JS]

Made myself a Little bow quiver for 3D Shooting, today.

[Kirkll]

That quiver looks like Tom turkey at full fan. Kinda cool looking.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I got started on my tillering board. Tried out my set of limbs......75 lbs
Carried the wedge to far into the curve and too thick. Started stacking at 20 inches.
Was 35 at brace height.

Going to fix the adjustment nut on my lam grinder and for another try.

Also have new form screwed and glued together and may cut it today for a different profile limb with more of a straight section before the curve.

[Kirkll]

With the shape of that limb, and the thickness of the limb butt wedges, I’m afraid by the time you get the draw weight down to 45# it’s going to be vertically unstable even using .001 or even par lams.
 
It would help you a bit laying the limb pads at a steeper angle, but then you will end up with a 8-9” brace. 

 I like the looks of those nice long fades  though…. If it flattened out a bit, say about 4-5”before going into the reflexed tips. You would have a much more manageable working section that provides better stability and give you a much longer draw length before the graph starts curving up again….

Honestly I don’t think you are going to be happy with that limb shape.

I’ll be interested seeing what your new form shape looks like.     Kirk

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Not going to waste any more time on these limbs. Chalk it up to learning curve. I will post up my new limb curves for comments before I cut them out. I can pull the existing form back about 2 inches and get a little longer straight part, and I have one set of limbs that I did that with and they feel pretty good.

Flat oart of wedge on the back or belly. I have done all mine with the long flat part on the back and the taper which starts after the limb pad on the belly.

Make any difference?

[Kirkll]

Just use a straight taper wedge…. To don’t need no stinking flat spot on a wedge.

[Mad Max]

Flat oart of wedge on the back or belly. I have done all mine with the long flat part on the back and the taper which starts after the limb pad on the belly.

Make any difference?

Most wedges the flat part is on the back and the taper on the belly.
The way kirk makes his it doesn't matter

I have made some that where a straight taper also

[wood carver 2]

Nasa, we have a problem…
Anyone think that this can be repaired?
Dave.

[Kirkll]

I’d say that was a kill shot….    Nope…. I think she’s toast myself.   Kirk

[wood carver 2]

Damn my accurate shooting… 😁😜
Dave.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Organized my shop! Lowes had these solid metal shelf on clearance for 32.99! Got 4 of them. Now I can organize my wood easier.

Setting up for fireworks in Mother nature's amphitheater.  Mt Sterling NC directly in fron and Mt Camrer TN in far background. Setup our RV down at my shop on the mountain this weekend