2022 what did you do today?

[Bryan Adolphe]

  Very nice veneers well done   

[Mad Max]

Not big enough, is it....

I ended up with 18 veneers, I guess I forgot the first 4, so I did make a mistake Pat

[Kirkll]

Bet ya had to do a lot of rubbing with that magic rub...

I wonder if that thing would work on an arthritic thumb joint? I could use some magic rub today.... this finish sanding is killing me....

[Mad Max]

That black and white has a nice look

[Kirkll]

Well i figured you guys might like a few specs and photos of the whole bow. She's in the spray booth right now, but here are a few pics on the tiller tree after i finish sanded the limbs..    AMO 62"  Bare Foot "B" riser (19.5") #2 limbs  (21"), 60" string . 7.25" brace, 43.32 @ 28"   ( btw... i ran a par instead of a .001 taper on this one due to the draw weight getting below 45# for better stability)..... look at the string angle at full draw on this thing.... It's going to be smooth getting off the string on this baby.


Just for fun......I did one other slight alteration in these limbs.... Can anyone spot the difference between my SS RC or other Bare RC limbs i've built?   i'll be curious to hear what you see.

[Pat B]

Kirk, that's a stunning bow. Looks and functional beauty. 

[Buemaker]

Looking good. Do you use tip wedges when there is no taper?

[Roy from Pa]

Very nice Kirk.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Finally got back into the shop last night. Finished a few limbs, automotive cleared and finished the bow in the middle. Got the riser in the left ready to clear this week.
It has full end grain overlays on belly and back and carbon fiber end caps. I reduced the grip size a little as well.

[Mad Max]

Looking good Hillbilly

Can't really find any good pictures to compare on your website Kirk?
None on the tiller tree, maybe less bend mid limb at brace

[Kirkll]

Looking good. Do you use tip wedges when there is no taper?

Bingo! That is it Buemaker! 

Typically I always use tip wedges on this limbs design.  but this one, being a par layup, with a 28” draw at lighter draw weight, I decided to just use the exterior overlay and leave the internal tip wedge out. If you look real closely you can see the hooks are opening up just a wee bit at full draw….. not much… but just a tad bit.

Kirk

[Kirkll]

Looking good Hillbilly

Can't really find any good pictures to compare on your website Kirk?
None on the tiller tree, maybe less bend mid limb at brace

Here is a 62” Sasquatch SS Special you can compare the limbs to. This one has tip wedges and recurve overlays  both… but… this bow is being drawn a full 32”. Keeping the limbs static is a serious advantage at longer draw lengths and helps maintain a flatter string angle.   Kirk

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rohCABKZmcgLt6Q37

[Kirkll]

Finally got back into the shop last night. Finished a few limbs, automotive cleared and finished the bow in the middle. Got the riser in the left ready to clear this week.
It has full end grain overlays on belly and back and carbon fiber end caps. I reduced the grip size a little as well.

Looks to me like you are experimenting with different riser shapes. Good looking wood combo’s there too.  I like the one on the far left the best.

If I could make a suggestion for you to try without criticizing your work at all, I would recommend adding some length to your risers and lengthen the limb pads about 1/2”.   I think you would be pleased with the results.

What is the riser length on the one on the left?    Kirk

[Kirkll]

Here ya go max…. I found another 62” Bare Foot “B”with #2 limbs to compare it to that has tip wedges. Only this one is being drawn to 31”. This riser was my original design with no hardware. I’ve changed that to using a bow bolt that gives the archer some tiller adjustment capability.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jHfsEZx4BA94w4jy5

[Mad Max]

Yeah a tip wedge will push the limbs forward  between mid limb and the recurve a little 

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Finally got back into the shop last night. Finished a few limbs, automotive cleared and finished the bow in the middle. Got the riser in the left ready to clear this week.
It has full end grain overlays on belly and back and carbon fiber end caps. I reduced the grip size a little as well.

Looks to me like you are experimenting with different riser shapes. Good looking wood combo’s there too.  I like the one on the far left the best.

If I could make a suggestion for you to try without criticizing your work at all, I would recommend adding some length to your risers and lengthen the limb pads about 1/2”.   I think you would be pleased with the results.

What is the riser length on the one on the left?    Kirk

Those are all 16" risers, 3 1/2" limb pads, 60" bows.

I have made a few 17 and 18" risers and a few with 4 inch limb pads. The one on the left was an impulse yesterday.  Wanted something with a little more flare to it than the rounded backs.

The one on the right is the bow I shoot the most. Everything from shelf cut to window cut, grip size, just works very  well for me.

I dropped down to 16 " riser because I was going to try a shorter bow, 56-58 ish.

I could easily go back to a 4 inch limb pad and step up in riser length and keep the limb bolts in the same place.

I do like the shape of the one on the far left the best. The wife, my greatest critic likes the other ones because she hates edges and sharp lines.....go figure.

I am getting good speed with these and believe I have my wedge configuration like I want it now. Thinned the wedge down from .400 to .345-.350 a d kept the length. It helped with stacking on the back end.

Thanks for the critique and advice!

[Kirkll]

With the same wedge configuration and bolt location you could go from a 16” to a 17” and just lengthen the limb pads to 4”.  This will give you room to make a radius shape similar to the belly ramp shape of a one piece instead of angular.

This extra length will push your working limb out a wee bit further and help your string angle a wee bit too.  That’s how you make advancement in your bow design is splitting hairs. Enough hairs pile up and you start seeing a bigger difference….. one bow at at time…. Just be sure and keep a detailed bowyers log, and only change one thing at a time.

I do this belly ramp shape on most of my riser designs because I like the looks of it most. 

As far as different length bows go. A trick I learned while developing ILF limbs was that staying with 17” 19”, and 21” riser lengths and just building #2 and #3 length limbs on the same form using a different wedge length, and stop location. You can maintain your limb dynamics and performance pretty consistently from 60” to 66” bow lengths to accommodate different draw lengths. You could go down to a 15” riser too, but they are not very popular.

Food for thought….

  Kirk

[Mad Max]

  ( btw... i ran a par instead of a .001 taper on this one due to the draw weight getting below 45# for better stability).

Using a Parallel verses a .001 stack taper your limb thickness at the recurve is thicker, I can see that helping stability.
A couple questions about Recurves
What is your glass width (1-3/4") and width taper shape on the limbs?
Also how long is the width taper?
I'm guessing you working limb is around 18"?
With your butt wedge being .025 taper you should be bending about 4-1/2"/5" of it?

[Buggs]

That Sassquat is wild looking  
It also looks huge! How much does that weigh? I think I would need to hire a caddy to hump it thru the woods for me

[Bryan Adolphe]

Bet ya had to do a lot of rubbing with that magic rub...

I wonder if that thing would work on an arthritic thumb joint? I could use some magic rub today.... this finish sanding is killing me....

 Kirk that’s a pretty wicked looking stick  very nice !