2022 what did you do today?

[Bryan Adolphe]

Finally got back into the shop last night. Finished a few limbs, automotive cleared and finished the bow in the middle. Got the riser in the left ready to clear this week.
It has full end grain overlays on belly and back and carbon fiber end caps. I reduced the grip size a little as well.

Nice job well done 

[Mad Max]

I glue up more footed veneers the other day and cut and sanded to thickness today 22 veneers.
I went flat grain on the Cocobolo this time.

[Mad Max]

Cocobolo changes when air gets to it I guess, you can't tell in the pictures but this morning when I went into the bow shop I could tell they we darker.
They had a purple tint yesterday but today more brown.
Yesterday


Today I took this pic. at the same angle


The out side veneer (1st cut) on today's veneers has a lot of Orange--Top left
We will see what they look like tomorrow 

[Roy from Pa]

Looks awesome..

[onetone]

Very nice work.    As shown in the last pic, is that how you plan to pair them on a given bow?

[Mad Max]

Thanks Roy

Very nice work.    As shown in the last pic, is that how you plan to pair them on a given bow?

They are 36" long now so a good bit can be cut off one or both ends
4 veneers is a pair
Everyone book matches them in pictures, but when you glueup  like this
   ========/======= center of riser =======\======== looks better than below.
   ========/======= center of riser =======/========
If you just have one type of wood veneers the orientation doesn't really matter

[Kirkll]

  ( btw... i ran a par instead of a .001 taper on this one due to the draw weight getting below 45# for better stability).

Using a Parallel verses a .001 stack taper your limb thickness at the recurve is thicker, I can see that helping stability.
A couple questions about Recurves
What is your glass width (1-3/4") and width taper shape on the limbs?
Also how long is the width taper?
I'm guessing you working limb is around 18"?
With your butt wedge being .025 taper you should be bending about 4-1/2"/5" of it?

I always start out with 1.75” glass and then run them down parallel and checking them for true 90 degrees. They come out about 1 5/8” width when mounted on the riser. My width taper profile template is 1 5/8”  that travels pretty much straight until it hits the fades about 5” off the riser then a straight taper to 3/4”.

My finished width profile sometimes comes down to 1.5” to 5/8” tip width. Sometimes down to 1/2” tip depending on adjustments for tracking and sting groove depth. They are all a wee bit different depending on rough draw weight vs finished draw weight.

These Bare limbs, or even the stock Bear limbs are odd ball length. The risers are 1/2” longer than ILF risers going 15.5” for an A riser 19.5” for a B and the #2 limbs run 21” and #3 at 22” length. The wedges on these limbs are shorter than my Sasquatch limb design and the working potion of the limbs are a bit shorter too. I use the same geometry of the Sasquatch SS RC, but lay the limb pad angle back to match the Bear risers and their funky wedge system.

Measuring the working portion of a limb may be different for different bowyers. I use fade tips on the wedge to the fade tips of the tip wedge for my log WL entries. Typically around 10-11” . I believe this is where the majority of the energy is stored. But…. The butt wedges flex a bit at the fades as well as the area going into the tip wedge…. So the actual portion of the limb bending is a bit longer than my log entries…. So with static tips the working portion will be shorter than a working recurve limb where the hooks open up. For performance reasons as well as better string angle and extended draw length maximum, I prefer the static tip design personally. I’ll often leave an internal tip wedge out on low poundage recurves running a par or reverse taper, and still get a static tip out of it on shorter draw length… now I have a low poundage bow with a long draw length, I’ll use both the tip wedges and the exterior RC overlay….. the key to torsional stability in these glass recurve bows is limb thickness at the base of the curl. That’s why some guys struggle with building fast taper RC limbs at lower draw weights. A 55-60 # RC with an .002 forward taper is still manageable. But anything under 55# I’d recommend an . 001 max taper rate just using glass.

Did this answer your questions bro?    Kirk

[Kirkll]

That Sassquat is wild looking  
It also looks huge! How much does that weigh? I think I would need to hire a caddy to hump it thru the woods for me

Mass weight of the riser on these “B” length Bare Foot risers are 1.9 pounds. The HD ChomaPly has a high density with very little flex to it. It actually has a very nice feel to it. Here is a stock TD Bear B riser side by side with the Bare Foot design I’m building.  But I build these in 17.5” and 21.5” lengths too.

[Mad Max]

Yep you answered my questions

Nice looking risers, how thick from the grip locator to the back? looks narrow but that looks like a big riser too.

[Kirkll]

Yep you answered my questions

Nice looking risers, how thick from the grip locator to the back? looks narrow but that looks like a big riser too.

Its a bit shy of the std 1.75" depth in the grip, but.... the grip itself is a bit wider in width, and is shaped with a natural wrist rotation angle and a bit lower thumb pad location... You can shoot this with an open hand, loose finger hand placement with no torque on the bow at all. I have recieved some great reviews on my grip shape.    Kirk

[Mad Max]

I do mine the same way, thumb groove lower than the index finger groove
Damon Howatt did it on there bows.

[Buemaker]

Them veneers look great Max.

[Mad Max]

Thanks bue

[flntknp17]

I know it isn't archery, but its definitely woodworking and some of the folks here liked seeing my first scratch build earlier this year.  This is my second scratch built fiddle and it came together a lot quicker than the first since I didn't have to make so many tools and jigs (around 250 hours versus about twice that for the first).  Everything is scratch built from raw lumber and the varnish was also homemade from alcohol and pine resin and pigment.  My middle son has claimed it as his new daily player.

I promise my next post will be another bow....I found some really nice wood the other day at a local sawmill and it is begging to become a bamboo backed longbow.

[onetone]

Hey they are all “stringed instruments” and that is a beauty. I have high regard for luthiers. 

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Flntknp very nice! I am in the middle of making a simple Bowed Psaltery.  Wife has started playing the hammered Dulcimer and I love the wood work in these instruments.

Tomorrow is opening day Archery season but it is suppose to rain like heck. So I am going wood shopping instead.


Max, those footed veneers are awesome!

[Mad Max]

Max, those footed veneers are awesome!

They should look Awesome for what I had to pay for the boards.
Edge grain and flat grain both look good on Cocobolo

[Mad Max]

That Sassquat is wild looking  
It also looks huge! How much does that weigh? I think I would need to hire a caddy to hump it thru the woods for me

Mass weight of the riser on these “B” length Bare Foot risers are 1.9 pounds. The HD ChomaPly has a high density with very little flex to it. It actually has a very nice feel to it. Here is a stock TD Bear B riser side by side with the Bare Foot design I’m building.  But I build these in 17.5” and 21.5” lengths too.

I like a smaller radius for the throat of the grip also, it locates the crotch of your thumb and Index finger.
The top one is 1-1/2" circle and the bottom one is 1-1/4", and I have made them 1-1/8"
Yours look pretty small too.

[Buggs]

Yesterday actually, my spindle sander took a crap

If anybody has one of these and it stops oscillating, it's probably this little dohicky

I'm not sure which happened first or certain if they are all related, but after I removed the stand I found all kinds of damage.

The dust collection housing was completely broken away from every attachment point. It requires a near complete disassembly to replace, so I strapped it back on with some neoprene fabric and a metal bracket.

Also broken were the 2 plastic centering bolts. I suspect their failure might have caused the other problems.
I whittled down some UHMW and drove it thru a nut to thread.

If your spindle sander starts to make any strange noises, stop and inspect it because its not fun tearing them down.
And that little dohicky..... $40!!!    Makes me wish I had a 3-D printer

[Mad Max]

What brand spindle sander?