2117

[Wolfie2nd]

Hello it's been a great while since I've posted up here looking for some help. I'd like to shoot 2117s out of my bow. I've got 51# at my 26¾" draw on my 62" dryad epic setup. I'd like to keep the arrow no longer than 29" think this would be possible?
 I'm looking to have a hunting arrow that would pack a huge amount of energy and getting up and over that 600gr marker. Any help or advice would be fantastic

[McDave]

Longbow or recurve limbs?

[Wolfie2nd]

Longbow or recurve limbs?

Sorry about that. They are the epic recurve limbs on a epic riser

[Whiteoak63]

It has been a long time since I have shot aluminum, but you should be able. I might be wrong but at that length it should take around 230-240 total weight up front.

[McDave]

I used 2117 arrows cut to 29” on a 57# BW PMA with a 125 grain point back in the ‘90's.  I would expect that with a 200-250 grain point, you would get to or exceed the 600 grains you're looking for on a 29” arrow.  I certainly wouldn't cut it any shorter than 29” until you're sure that wouldn't make it too stiff.  I think what you want would be possible, although it might be a good idea to start off with just one shaft at first, to see how things go.  If anything, you might need a slightly weaker shaft (2016?).

[Wolfie2nd]

Yeah every sign is telling me 2016. I shot 2117 years back out of my 67# MA widow but those days are far gone. Thanks for the replies

[DouglasCorrell]

I think you can almost certainly make 2117's work for your setup if you tinker a little with shaft length and tip weight. One reason I love aluminum is the ease and relatively-low cost of experimentation.

IIRC there's a thread somewhere in PowWow celebrating the versatility of 2117 shafting.       

[bucknut]

I shoot 200 gr up front on 28 1/2" 2117 out of my Tall Tines pulling 54 @ 27.    Works for me

[Dave Lay]

I think your right on the 2016’s I think a 2117 is gonna be to stiff for ya

[Wolfie2nd]

So I got the 2117s to bare shaft @ 29.5" with 175gr field tip. Groups right in with the fletched arrows at roughly 20 yards. My only issue is I keep getting nock high, left and right is good and I feel that I have moved my nocking point 10x now.
For reference I draw 51# @ 26.75 on a dryad ilf recurve. Brace height is 7.25 the upper limb is 17cm lower limb is roughly 17.25 cm for some reason I can't get the upper and lower to match exact.

[McDave]

Probably you're getting a false nock high.  Move your nock point way up, I mean an inch or more, until you're sure you're getting a true nock high, and then start working your way down again.  You know it's a true nock high if you can move it down and get a nock low; otherwise you can never be sure.  You have to make small adjustments, about 1/16” at a time.

Try to get your tiller measurements to reverse: 17.25 top and 17 bottom, if you can't get them to be equal.

[J. Cook]

In my experience that .400 spine shaft at 29.5" is much too stiff... I think you'll find MANY on here (me included) that shoot 2117's from 55 to 60# at 28" draw with 175 or 200 grains up front.  With your poundage and draw length, it seems like they should be very stiff without throwing 300 grains on the front which would make a heavy slug of an arrow.  Admittedly, I do not know the centershot of the bow you referenced which definitely matters.

That may be why you are still getting some nock point issues - for me, bare shafting tends to be an exercise in futility for most bows.  I simply don't have a perfect enough release for the results to be pure.  Visual flight and performance are much more of an indicator for me.  i will get "close" with bare shaft tuning if I'm tuning in a bow that is significantly different than my others.  Then I fletch two arrows with very bright colors so I can see and keep tuning to ensure broadhead and field tip shoot the exact same with no visual wobble or "odd" impacts. 

Hope this helps you out, but I do think the bare shafting for most is only something to give you an idea - most of us cannot truly shoot good enough for it to give perfect results.

[Wolfie2nd]

I do get a wobble when they fly its not left to right but vertically up and down. It's minimal but enough that I notice it over 20 yards. Otherwise the arrow is going where I am looking. 20 yards 6 arrows in a solo cup. Tomorrow I will see how they fly with German Jager 175s..
 I agree that in order to bare shaft and have 100% results every shot needs to be a clean release with perfect form with a fresh Styrofoam target.

[Gen273]

I think the 2016 would be perfect. 2117 might work, but you will probably have to play more with length and point weight because it's stiff for your setup.

[MnFn]

I think the 2016 would be perfect. 2117 might work, but you will probably have to play more with length and point weight because it's stiff for your setup.

Longbow or recurve limbs?
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[Wolfie2nd]

I think the 2016 would be perfect. 2117 might work, but you will probably have to play more with length and point weight because it's stiff for your setup.

Longbow or recurve limbs?
[/quote
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Dryad Recurve limbs

[Wudstix]

I'm not much help, but found that 2215 (75.2#) was about same spine as 2117 (77.4#), but lighter arrow.  Also, look at 2020 (73.9#).

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