Screening a Food Plot?

[Elsecaller]

Not sure if this is an appropriate question for this forum or not, but here goes:

I'm establishing a small orchard food plot for wildlife with persimmons, mulberries, crabapples, and elderberries. However, this plot is currently quite open and with the openness I'm questioning whether I can get to my stand locations without spooking off deer, particular early morning. The path I take is far enough away I should be fine as long as I have something screening off the food plot.

There is a large open field, then a low area, then another small field on the other side where the food plot will be located that is tucked up against the woods. My plan is to plant a screen of sandbar willow in the low area, and then plant a screen of white pine and jack pine some 10-20 feet into the big field. The willow should fill in much quicker and give some protection until the pines can get established.

Any thoughts? Good idea, bad idea? Any experience I can learn from? I'm trying to keep the project manageable from a financial standpoint. think I can get everything I need for about $100.00.

[Bowguy67]

You’re not thinking big enough. You’ll need to figure where deer are coming into a plot and set there not build a spot you hope they’ll walk past.  Now you’ll need to adjust according to wind or only hunt it when it’s good.  I’ve never seen them eat elderberry or mulberry. Besides elderberry is a summer fruit mulberry too early as well. Mulberry trees grow big enough in my area to hand stands though.
If you build a box type blind you’d prob be ok once in but entering in the dark or leaving than could be tough. Id still be using the perimeter of it was me. 

[Cory Mattson]

Not sure if that’s a misprint but not a fraction of this is happening for $100

We don’t hunt food sources directly in the morning because you will blow them out

Things may be different and I could be wrong lol

[Elsecaller]

You’re not thinking big enough. You’ll need to figure where deer are coming into a plot and set there not build a spot you hope they’ll walk past.  Now you’ll need to adjust according to wind or only hunt it when it’s good.  I’ve never seen them eat elderberry or mulberry. Besides elderberry is a summer fruit mulberry too early as well. Mulberry trees grow big enough in my area to hand stands though.
If you build a box type blind you’d prob be ok once in but entering in the dark or leaving than could be tough. Id still be using the perimeter of it was me.

I've done a lot of reading and deer love mulberry leaves and green twigs. Turkey, pheasant, grouse and a dozen other wildlife also enjoy them and I'm sure I'll have some volunteer saplings after a few years the deer will love to browse. I don't have a problem with them being a summer fruit since they are planted with crabapples and persimmons that are going to easily cling on through November.

I guess I didn't specify, but this plot is not *only* for deer, I want it to be for small game as well.

[BAK]

Trees aren't your only option, you could try Nine bark, or High Bush Cranberry as well.

[Elsecaller]

Not sure if that’s a misprint but not a fraction of this is happening for $100

We don’t hunt food sources directly in the morning because you will blow them out

Things may be different and I could be wrong lol

Sorry, I didn't make it clear with my post.

1.) I'm not hunting the foot plot. The path to get to my stand, which is placed between the food plot and bedding areas to the north, takes me within view of the food plot since it is open field. I'm just afraid that being as open as it is I could still spook deer 70-100 yards away. I'll see if I can get a picture or diagram to demonstrate what I'm talking about.

2.) I already have the fruit trees planted and protected. The $100 I mentioned was for the pine saplings and willow saplings. At 25 plants the pines are only $1.40 each. I have leftover caging to protect them already.

[Elsecaller]

Trees aren't your only option, you could try Nine bark, or High Bush Cranberry as well.

Thanks!

[rastaman]

When Mulberry trees start dropping their fruit in early spring, the hogs in our area wear them out. That's one of the areas i concentrate on in the spring.  Good luck with your venture!

[Cory Mattson]

OK you are in a better situation than I thought
Good Luck <><
<———————-<<<<<

[Ryan Rothhaar]

You are right, both mulberry and elderberry are very highly favored deer browse, talking leaves, not berries.  Mulberry is hit hard everywhere I've hunted in the Midwest and they'll pick up the dried up brown leaves on the ground till they are gone. I remember where I find mulberry trees as they will influence deer movement into the rut.  There was one on Dads farm that I set up on as a destination feed site several times.

I wouldnt want screening for access to a food plot to be more food, for sure. Switch grass is highly used as a non food screen.....ie the deer aren't standing there eating it while you walk in and out, getting spooked by you....which was the point of the screen in the first place....

R

[Elsecaller]

[Sam McMichael]

How long does it take for these trees to begin producing fruit? I am only somewhat familiar with mulberry, persimmon, and crab apples. I have always thought it takes a while. When do you expect to have a productive plot?   

[goobersan]

Miscanthus giganteus
It's a sterile grass,  grows tall,  and spreads by rhizomes (aka root system). In a couple years you'll a wall of grass to hide your movement

[Elsecaller]

How long does it take for these trees to begin producing fruit? I am only somewhat familiar with mulberry, persimmon, and crab apples. I have always thought it takes a while. When do you expect to have a productive plot?

Depends on a lot of factors, but I'd say five years on the optimistic end. I'm young, so I look at it as an investment.

[Friend]

Whitetail Institute's Imperial Whitetail Conceal may serve you quite well.

[Elsecaller]

Whitetail Institute's Imperial Whitetail Conceal may serve you quite well.

I was actually real keen on using some tall native grasses as a screen at first, until I was reading and pretty much everyone said you need to spray your land with herbicides so the grass you plant can compete. I just can't get behind that.

[gregg dudley]

I like your strategy of planting multiple tree varieties in the same plot.  If you can keep the deer coming with a staggered crop you are on to something.  That being said, if you have a high deer density and just a few of each tree, the deer will devour the fruit in short order. 

I don't get an idea of scale in that picture, but if what you are trying to screen is the orange dot or the red/yellow x marks in the second picture you might consider building brush piles or stacking round bales of hay along that fence line or finger.  It would serve as an immediate screen while your trees are growing and it could also be used to influence deer movement or create a pinch point.  Brush piles are also a great habitat enhancement for small game.

I've also seen guys purposefully park old farm equipment and other stuff along fence rows, etc, in a way that served as a screen.  If it is an active farm, deer get used to stuff like that. 

Also, I know a lot of people walk that treelike, like your blue trail show, but if the crop allows for it or if it is your own land and you can leave a half tractor width or even less unplanted for a trail, I prefer to walk across the field.  Yeah, I know, money/yield, etc., but life is about balance.  Even if you spook deer walking in, they generally come back into the field after a few minutes because you aren't right on top of them.  And because you don't leave a scent trail right down the woodline where they all have to come out (and often like to travel) they might not even make it to your trail especially early in the growing season when they usually browse closer to cover.  If it is a taller crop, like cotton or corn, you are set for screening cover.

[Elsecaller]

I like your strategy of planting multiple tree varieties in the same plot.  If you can keep the deer coming with a staggered crop you are on to something.  That being said, if you have a high deer density and just a few of each tree, the deer will devour the fruit in short order. 

I don't get an idea of scale in that picture, but if what you are trying to screen is the orange dot or the red/yellow x marks in the second picture you might consider building brush piles or stacking round bales of hay along that fence line or finger.  It would serve as an immediate screen while your trees are growing and it could also be used to influence deer movement or create a pinch point.  Brush piles are also a great habitat enhancement for small game.

I've also seen guys purposefully park old farm equipment and other stuff along fence rows, etc, in a way that served as a screen.  If it is an active farm, deer get used to stuff like that. 

Also, I know a lot of people walk that treelike, like your blue trail show, but if the crop allows for it or if it is your own land and you can leave a half tractor width or even less unplanted for a trail, I prefer to walk across the field.  Yeah, I know, money/yield, etc., but life is about balance.  Even if you spook deer walking in, they generally come back into the field after a few minutes because you aren't right on top of them.  And because you don't leave a scent trail right down the woodline where they all have to come out (and often like to travel) they might not even make it to your trail especially early in the growing season when they usually browse closer to cover.  If it is a taller crop, like cotton or corn, you are set for screening cover.

That's a great idea Gregg, I hadn't thought of using something like round bales. I've actually hunted from behind some old round bales before that had been left behind and pushed off the field and into some bushes on the side of the field. Worked liek a charm.

All great suggestions.

[Tedd]

Egyptian wheat (hybrid sorghum) will work as advertised. Even exceeds most claims for height. It is an annual but will stand all winter and spring. Makes a great screen and wind block. The stufff is amazing. The seed company recommendations for seed rate are are correct. No need to over seed like we all do! Mine has to be pushing 20' tall at times. Thicker seeding will make a denser but not as high.
If you want it to really get to maximum heights use urea nitrogen 2-3 times per summer. Any fertilizer is better than none and you almost can't over do it. Lime too. Mine gets so tall that I don't think I even need to fertilize it.
Get it in the ground around the time you plant corn. The hotter the weather, the faster it grows! A 6' wide patch will be a 100% screen. It will be slow to germinate and slow to start but in august it grows a couple inches per day, 2-3 feet per week!
I have some photos I'll try to post.
As my trees, brush and weeds grow I will not need the Egyptian wheat anymore. But for now it makes good cover and hides deer from the road.
Tedd

[Elsecaller]

Egyptian wheat (hybrid sorghum) will work as advertised. Even exceeds most claims for height. It is an annual but will stand all winter and spring. Makes a great screen and wind block. The stufff is amazing. The seed company recommendations for seed rate are are correct. No need to over seed like we all do! Mine has to be pushing 20' tall at times. Thicker seeding will make a denser but not as high.
If you want it to really get to maximum heights use urea nitrogen 2-3 times per summer. Any fertilizer is better than none and you almost can't over do it. Lime too. Mine gets so tall that I don't think I even need to fertilize it.
Get it in the ground around the time you plant corn. The hotter the weather, the faster it grows! A 6' wide patch will be a 100% screen. It will be slow to germinate and slow to start but in august it grows a couple inches per day, 2-3 feet per week!
I have some photos I'll try to post.
As my trees, brush and weeds grow I will not need the Egyptian wheat anymore. But for now it makes good cover and hides deer from the road.
Tedd

Do you need to bother at all with spraying herbicides for weed control?