Form building question

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

What are you lining your forms with? The formica strip I got from Binghams looks like clear glass!

Would like to be able to source stuff locally.  What are you guys using?

[kennym]

I think that is what they send now days. I use black glass or streaky clear , or on a test bow, nothing til I see how it pans out. If you use a router with pattern bit and get the template as near perfect as you can, they don't have to have a covering...

I'd say if you need to line it to take bumps out, a .060" parallel will work fine if you keep it waxed between bows.

[JGR1269]

I use the same actionboo I use for lams. I just finished up a new belly mounted t/d recurve form today and glued a .133 strip on after perfecting the form. I glue it on just like I’m gluing up a bow with the air hose and a pressure strip. I’ll put masking tape on to protect it before each glue up as well as plastic wrap.

[Noah70]

I use 1/8” clear acrylic or plexiglass.  It’s available from most glass repair shops or many building suppliers in sheets up to 4’ x 8’, or they mostly will cut what you need. It cuts easily on band or tablesaw, and is coated both sides to protect the finish.
I sand one side and epoxy it to the bottom form by taping it in place and then laying some laminates above it as well as the pressure strip (to provide some thickness),  then add the air hose and air, put it in the oven and you’re done. Remove the protective coat before you bake it, or the adhesive can be problematic when baked.  Very nice super smooth surface.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions! I used spray adhesive like the Binghams video suggested, but curious as to how it holds up.

Just thinking about a plan B!

[Crooked Stic]

I use a template on my router table with pattern bit. So the surface is smooth already. Any plywood voids filled with bondo and sanded down. If needed I use .060 prll of actionboo.

[Mad Max]

Just fill the voids and some Shellac to seal it.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Has anyone finished both top and bottom?
This is going to be for a take down bow. I can use the same profile for both my ILF limbs and some bolt on limbs.

The only difference is the taper portion is flipped between the two. I want to be able to put the fire hose on either side.

This will save me from making  another mold?

Anyone done this?

[Buemaker]

I use .027 inch thick galvanized steel. A shop that makes gutters and such will cut a strip for you.

[Longcruise]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions! I used spray adhesive like the Binghams video suggested, but curious as to how it holds up.

Just thinking about a plan B!

Not a fan of that method.  I use contact cement with no issues.

[kennym]

I've been using contact cement also, but Chad Holm told me on a new form, he just used EA 40 when he glued the first bow up. I just didn't figure I could pull all that off without having a onepiecebowformthing !! 

[Shredd]

I don't line it...  Just careful sanding...

[Robertfishes]

I have only used black glass myself...but I have at least 16 pieces of streaky clear glass from 6 or 7 years ago if I need to build a new form. I have only used 3M high strength 90 to glue glass to the form. My newest form is over 6 years old and oldest form is around 13 years old. They are still straight and true. KennyM and Crooked Stic helped me get thru my first one piece Recurve form build. Later on I got a template from Kenny for his first 64" longbow design and found it made a awesome 66" bow too.

[kennym]

Good to see you post Robert!