McDave, the 500s had shown weak with his set up the previous fall prior to putting on the thick sideplate and retuning the bow for his 600s, so I couldn't understand why the 400s wouldn't work. One of my biggest downfalls in this sport is my constant fascination with tinkering/tuning and seeing what I can get to work out of each rig---then when things are going well I change it up again---this past season I shot 2 deer with 2 different arrow weight/broadhead combinations out of the same bow. My goal is to get one arrow/bow combination tuned and stick with it throughout 3D and into hunting this year---we'll see
. Fortunately my buddy in the scenario above does not have this affliction and he will be using his combo now that we've tuned it.
I've seen those videos in extreme slow motion where the properly tuned arrow flexes so far around the riser that the fletchings are no where near the sideplate and even outside of the shelf edge. I have no idea what mine are doing at that point so I don't think placing the sideplate and rest so there is a gap would hurt a thing. I do sometimes rotate my nocks for feather to touch my nose (again this is a constantly changing dynamic for me) so my feathers aren't always in the same position. I have not noticed wear on any of my hen feathers (except on one occassion where the bow showed positive tiller and I shot 3 under), so my tune seems to working.
As far as the helical deal---I used to shoot in offhand muzzleloader competition and when I built my first smoothbore and began shooting it I realized that when you don't spin things, accuracy can be iffy if it exists at all. Not saying this is the case with arrows, but putting a helical on my feathers doesn't cost me a thing and is good insurance, if only from a confidence standpoint.
Always good to hear your thoughts.