Aluminum??

[the rifleman]

I used aluminum arrows back when I first started shooting stick bows.  I quickly became a fan of carbon because it didn't bend or kink and rarely did it break.  I would go through my tuning gyrations any time I got a new bow or different brand of arrow.  I would get good results bareshafting, but only after spending a lot of time and trimming shafts 1/4" at a time.  Only when my release and form were perfect would I get a good bareshaft.
Well today, after going through those tuning mechanics and getting pretty close to tune with some carbons, I grabbed an 1816 aluminum and that arrow flew right into the bull.  I figured it had to be a fluke so I proceeded to shoot the half dozen I had and my groups not only shrunk, but my over all consistency improved.  I found an 1816 bareshaft, full length as the fletched we're and with just a bit of tweaking my nock height I had the bareshaft right in there with the fletched.  The bareshaft was much less finicky than my carbons.  In this case the bow was 40# at my 27" draw.  The carbons we're .700s w 200 up front at 28 5/8".  The 1816s spine at .756 I believe and I was just using 100 grs up front.
Just wondered if anyone else has had this experience.
It just seems the aluminums are more forgiving and easier to work with.  Anyone that bateshafts alums-- do you cut 1/4" at a time?  Just wondered how sensitive the are to length changes compared to carbons.

[McDave]

Aluminum arrows are much more consistent in spine and weight than carbon arrows.

I have a set of 1816's that I keep for a tournament that I like to shoot in that doesn't allow carbon arrows.  They are cut to 28”, and my draw is 27.75”, so that's about as short as I can cut them.  They weigh 390 grains, with a 100 grain point.

I usually shoot GT Ultralight 600’s cut to 29” with a 100 grain point out of this bow, which is a 40# Bob Lee Legacy, and they weigh 308 grains.  The 82 grain difference between these and the 1816's is the main reason I prefer to shoot them.  We have a lot of 50 yard shots at our tournaments out here in California, and the difference in trajectory a that distance is quite noticeable.  I think if my max distance was 30-35 yards, I would prefer the 1816’s.

I'm amazed that carbon .700's with 200 up front tune for you, in a very similar setup to what I am using.  It's been so long since I tuned the 1816’s that I can't really tell you if they were easier or harder to tune than the Gold Tips.  I don't remember much difference.

[the rifleman]

McDave, it could be the 700s work for me as I'm shooting a Toelke Whip that's not cut as close to center as your Bob Lee.  You're probably getting more performance out of the recurve limbs and I wonder if using a lighter arrow could make that arrow act a bit weaker as it's being pushed faster?  Or it could be something in my own dynamics like release, but I've always gotten along better w weaker arrows than you'd expect.  150s on those 700s show stiff.
I do shoot 600s out of my Wengerd which is 39@28, but cut past center and really performs w a skinny d10 string.
Our max distance for 3d is usually 30 so my arrows are usually in the 10-11 gpp range as I like to practice w what I hunt with.  Sounds like that 308 grain arrow would be the ticket for your longer shoots.  Not sure I'd fair well at those ranges.

[Steelhead]

I think you got a an arrow in the 1816 that is really near perfect for you at 27 inches  draw,40#s bow at 27 inches draw cut to 28 or close to that

I shoot a 1916 out of my bows that around 40  pounds.I cut them 29-29.5 inches,I draw 28 inches and shoot 150 grain field points mostly.So slightly stiffer arrow for me accounting for my longer draw and the longer arrow.

If you get close with aluminum in your initial choice in shaft size.You can typically get them to shoot well without too much fussing around.The consistent spine all around the shaft helps and their close to begin with if you pick the right one.

I can get a 1916 or 2016 to shoot out of all my bows and I think I could get an 1816 to shoot as well by varying length and tip wieght.I cut my 2016s longer.I think a 1816 cut to barely above my draw length with light point will work for me as well .

I can play with strings as well with both B-55 and FF strings to get an arrow to work.I got one type of each string type for all bows.I go back and forth between thse 2 type of materials and get better arrow flight sometimes depending on softer spine arrow or stiffer arrow.I dont mind using B-55.I like it.You get used to it.

Most my bows are cut to center and hybrids or recurves.

[SlowBowKing]

I had a similar experience with randomly trying aluminum arrows. One day I left my carbons inside and took out a few 2016 Eastons I had from my compound days in the early 2000s. They flew like darts! I ordered some cheapy aluminum shafts and have never looked back!

[Sam McMichael]

I shot aluminum for a few years, but when I bought my first Hill bow, wood just seemed the way to go. I've been shooting it ever since. I have one R/D bow that shoots aluminum so well I keep a few for that bow.

[Wheels2]

The heavy foc guys like carbon because a stiff spine carbon is lighter then a comparable aluminum with a lighter tip.
I am a hold out who still shoots a 125 Snuffer or a 175 Delta.
As stated above, you can't beat the consistency and price of XX75 or X7

[Wheels2]

FWIW, I have found wood easier to tune than aluminum, and aluminum easier than carbons.

[M60gunner]

I also find aluminums easier to tune. Seems I don’t need a bunch of extra weight inserts and other gizmos . I follow what I learned from Ken Beck’s video years ago. I figured if he can bareshaft 70 yards in the wind he knows what he is doing. I do find carbons more durable as I an’it the best after 30 yards. I do have the the tools to straighten the aluminums and haven’t lost my touch.

[beemann]

I Never could get carbons to fly as well as my aluminums so I gave up.  Don't have the patience to switch now.   

[Wudstix]

Personally, I like the ease of getting a dozen wood arrows spined 15-20# over bow weight for high performance (D/R), broadheads over 160 grains, and 29" (draw plus @1.5").  Sometimes trim to 28.5", closer to DL+1".  Just go shoot and hunt.  Aluminums are pretty consistent as well, I like the 22XX arrows for my heavy bows.  Carbons I just fiddle with the few I have come across in trades, but never hunt them.  Mainly Arrow Dynamics.
 

[Slickhead]

I find aluminum easir than anything else. I love wood but its a labor of love. I like being able to buy, trim and tune. No straightening. But wood is quieter IMHO.

[Red Beastmaster]

I have two recurves, two longbows, and a hybrid, all between 42#-44# @ 27". They all shoot the same 1816 like freaking darts!  I am not about to mess with perfection.

[RIVERWOLF]

.....Really love aluminum arrow shafts !   Been shooting 2018's for a LOT of years.   All the small dia. thick walled shafts do excellent for what stickbow shooters need . They also work for a pretty wide weight range due to the smaller dia.  .  1816-1916-1820-2018-2020 all EXCELLENT  stickbow shaft imho .  Great ease in purchase , good price , and you can go simple or dress them up with a multitude of options in wraps-paints-inserts-adapters-weights, etc...

Love shooting wood as well......

[Herdbull]

I've mostly used 2219 arrows. Mike
 

[Arwin]

 I like the Easton Tributes if I go aluminum.

[Skates 2]

Once I went to carbon, I never looked back. Carbon is FAR superior to aluminum in many ways. 

[Kirkll]

My Dave nailed it. Aluminum shafts are the most consistent in spine of all the shafts out there. Unfortunately the durability doesn’t hold a candle to carbon shafts. With carbon shafts, after being tuned properly are either dead straight or broken… nothing between.

Wood arrows are cool. Nothing more beautiful than a nicely crested set of Sherwood shafts, or footed shafts. And if you can get a matched set in weight and spine, they are reasonably easy to bare shaft tune….. but… these are wood and require maintenance and adjustment at times.

The crazy thing about carbon shafts is that they are not created equal. There is a very wide range in spine consistency on different brands, and different quality carbon shafts.  I was shocked how much difference in spine there is on some shafts.

 I got my spine tester set up one day and checked a bunch of different brands for spine consistency. I could not believe how much difference there was rotating a carbon shaft 90 degrees. In some cases they were worse than woodies going from edge grain to flat grain.

This was a serious eye opener for me. After realizing carbon shafts were consistently inconsistent in stiffness just rotating them 90 degrees in  a dozen matched shafts, I started spine testing all my shafts prior to bare shaft tuning, and getting the spine matched up as close as possible. This took all the fight out of bare shaft tuning, and I was back on track again.

This totally changed my perspective on carbon shafts.


Food for thought.     Kirk

[Wild Bill MCP 808]

I use aluminum most all the time for my form and my way of shooting I find the aluminums seem to stabilize sooner than carbon. That's my shooting. I have used all arrows over the years they all shoot good when tuned to the bow.

[Wudstix]

Have to agree with Mike for heavy bows.