My second take down

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Learned a lot from my first one, and this one as well. I am very pleased at how this one came out. After cleaning up the limbs, it came in at 1/8 positive tiller with a tiller string I made that is about 12-14" draw or brace height. It was spot on at normal brace height I want to run at 7 3/4". Weight came in at 42 lbs at 28"

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

The back is walnut and the belly is curly maple.

[kennym]

Lookin good !!

[Mad Max]

x2
you need a little more roundness  in the riser.
Round over those corners more on your next one

[Buemaker]

Very good.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

x2
you need a little more roundness  in the riser.
Round over those corners more on your next one

After holding it for awhile, I see a fee areas I want to go in and reshape before I add anymore finish. I think you are right though. It does not flow well into a few areas, like the handle butt and tip of the riser window.

[Mad Max]

 

[Kirkll]

You are off and running now!  Things will smooth out as you get more bows under your belt. The first ones all are a bit blocky shaped until you get get comfortable. Good looking rig there.

I would seriously try and steer you towards using heavier riser material. Black walnut is cool looking, but has a history of riser failure. Same with curly maple.
Use rock hard maple, bubinga, Iron wood, and other hardwoods with more density, and you’ll get more mass weight in the riser and better strength. This is a good thing.

 If you want to use the softer hardwoods, you should look into using I beam construction, or tie your limb pads together with a full overlay on the back side.
You really need to cap that end grain on the back of the riser. Riser failures are heart breaking, and you can end up with a knot on your gourde too.

Question: Why are you putting overlays on the bottom of the limb butts where they mount on the riser? Are those overlays on top of your glass?

Don’t be surprised if you see those start lifting a bit after extended use. Overlays in that location don’t do well under compression. Even glass overlays can  lift and separate in the wedge area on the belly side like that.

Kirk

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Kirk,
I had an issue with one of the limb pad areas when it came out of the mold. It had a slight area that had a bump due to a clamp that got wonky on the mold.

I was watching South Cox on his Stalker video and he does that on some of his take downs.

This helped me repair that and then was able to machine that flat.

On the back of the riser, that curly maple is under a glass strip that did run to the limbs, but did not like the way it looked.

I thought about I beaming this one, but hoping the heavy Bloodwood laminate in the middle will hold. The insert does go through the Bloodwood as well and hopefully ties it together .

I have a bunch of maple and walnut ,so trying to find ways to use them. I have a nice piece of Bubbinga and some more Rosewood.

I am finding that I am allergic to several of the exotics , so , trying to make the maple and walnut work.

It may blow up tomorrow,  but if it does, then I can know the exact cause and effect.

I probably do need to run the glass the entire back. This riser was supposed to be just a quick and originally almost trashed it .

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Kirk, is this the area you are saying should be capped? Will be easily enough to do.

Thanks for all the advice!

[Kirkll]

Honestly bro.... i wouldnt do a thing to this one you just completed. Sounds like your draw weight is light enough to hold together ok. Just don't pass it off to some gorilla with a 32" draw and you'll be fine.

Here is a bow with a radius back shape i built from Mango. It has a phenolic limb pad overlay that runs clear around the back of the riser tying the two limb pads together. This really helps stiffens up a riser.

https://goo.gl/photos/wHtgFjYf8xnXPGqH9


The best strength you'll get is using an I-beam. Its pretty simple to do too. just use a 3/8" thick wood I-beam and you can still cut the shelf a 1/8" past center ok.  For target bows that guys want a full 3/16" past center cut riser, or an ILF rig that goes 5/16" past center or more, you just off set the I-beam. 

You can even Hide the I-beam completely like these. Some of these have Footings and a 1/4" G-10 I-beam for strength and added mass weight.    There are lots of options.

https://goo.gl/photos/mxuQUGwQuUK9GAbq9

https://goo.gl/photos/vd8jQFVj5brKg4BC6

https://goo.gl/photos/bYhyfhjQ6omQBnd39

https://goo.gl/photos/A6K67S29dp2PmyvQ9

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Kirk you do amazing work! Those are gorgeous.

I reshaped the ends slightly  and chronod it.
160 fps at 10 gpp. About where my other 42 lb bows are. It shoots petty dang well .

If it cracks or breaks, I will let everyone know. Will break my heart, but that is what learning is about.

[Shredd]

  Nice... Do you have a pic of her at 28" draw???

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I can get one tomorrow,  hopefully on a real draw board.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Not quite 28 and probably not centered up. Best I can do with the wife taking pics.

[onetone]

Nice work AH. Your riser has crisp lines. You might try a little more radius on some of the angles ... or not. You'll find what works well and appeals to your eye.

[kennym]

Nice job! Great string angle, looks like she has more draw length left .