Broadhead adapters - Steel vs. Aluminum

[LookMomNoSights]

For many years now,  I have epoxied my broadheads to steel adapters.  That method has always been great for alignment and plenty strong and I'm not necessarily looking to change anything, but ......  I am wondering if the aluminum adapters stand up to the steel when used in this same way?  Using a lighter aluminum adapter, if rugged enough,  may allow me to utilize different arrow inserts / broadhead combinations without having to go to a different spine .....   If anyone has experience with aluminum in comparison to steel for adapters, I'd like to hear your thoughts.   Anyone hit bone or anything really solid with aluminum adapters and how did they hold up? 

[toddster]

I use to use Aluminum adapters, but decade ago I started using STEEL, for the weight for more FOC.  I do recall a couple failures but not sure if was just aluminum adapter or angle of impact.  Last few years have used ETHICS and had zero issues.  That being said I am no expert, I do know that the Ranch Fairy is doing some testing just to see if there is a difference (besides weight) for failure. 

[Orion]

I use both.  Never had either bend on deer size critters.  Have bent both on rocks and other hard objects.  Steel is a little stronger, but hit hard enough, it too will bend. 

[Ryan Rothhaar]

Used both, probably 80:20% aluminum to steel.  No issues with either for 35 years. I choose which based on what weight I want, not based on strength.

R

[Terry Green]

Used both, probably 80:20% aluminum to steel.  No issues with either for 35 years. I choose which based on what weight I want, not based on strength.

R

What he said.... AND!

I have only used steel on my Bison and a few hogs..... the only issue I have had with aluminum  is I have bent a couple on hard hits on rocks out of 65 and 70# bows with judos, BUT, they were NOT epoxied to the insert.....

However, I would advise against using 'lighter' or the 'short' aluminum adapters as I have heard they don't hold enough glue to make a tight enough bond to keep them from jamming up into the Bhead furrel and splitting the Bhead. 

Now, you might test this yourself as I do NOT know if the folks I've heard this from used epoxy.  If you do decide to test this I would recommend making sure the inside of the bhead furrel is cleaned very well 1st, then 'cone up' some sand paper and sand the furrel a bit for more adhesion and acetone again.... then after totally dry..... epoxy.

The last this I would recommend if you test them..... is to make sure you follow the above and give us a report!!! 

[LookMomNoSights]

That makes sense Terry regarding the short vs the long and the surface area to hold glue.  I picked up both short and long to mess around with them but maybe I don’t even bother with the short...... I believe it’s only around 10 gr difference anyhow between the 2.  Seems I’ll have to do some tinkering around to maybe see how they hold up but everyone’s take on the aluminum makes me feel confident.  I’ve been wanting to approach it like Ryan’s school of thought with simply getting the weight you want but I’ve never bent a steal one and when you hold one of them aluminums in your hand it doesn’t feel like it would take a hard hit very well but guess I need to give them another look.   I sent an Ace standard 125gr on a 75gr steel insert at a woodchuck a few years back and that broadhead hit a rock square and curled up at the tip like a jelly roll....... but the steel adapter appeared to hold up just fine.

[Terry Green]

Yes, I used a steel adapter and mini aquarium tubing inside the arrow for the weight for the bison.

[Bow man]

I use alum. when gluing on My Ace Standards I use, have never had an issue in 12 years.  I have taken many deer and when in S. Africa took and Eland no issue. My reason for using the Alum was to be at a spefic weight with the Broadheads. 

[supernaut]

I'm enjoying this thread and the insight, thanks all! 

I've decided to shoot aluminums this year and have been playing with different broadheads and weights. I glued up some Ace Standards on aluminum adapters to give me a screw in weight at 160 grains and so far I've been happy with the testing and shooting I've done in the yard. I'm hoping to get some shooting at some ground hogs behind the house when the hay is cut so that will likely provide a bit of a "toughness test" for the aluminum adapters, always rocks to hit and sometimes even a ground hog. 

I ordered some 125 grain Magnus Stingers to try as well and am awaiting their arrival. I've got great flight with the 125 grain field tips.

I have some old Razorheads that I may glue an adapter in that will bring me in around 135 grains. I don't think the 10 grains will matter much but.....

Has anyone here ever done a weight reduction on an aluminum adapter and if so, method used (I assume hit it on the grinder?) and did it affect gluing, mounting?

[Dave Lay]

I’ve shot the long aluminum adapters for a lot of years and don’t remember any failures , there are solid and hollow ones I much prefer the solid.  I’ve shot the steel on occasion but only to up my point weight and then only the 100 grain since the 75’s are shorter and dont have the surface contact the long ones do, same with the aluminum.  And I have trimmed the length on aluminum adapters to clear bleeders and to adjust weight, but that little weight made no noticeable difference so I just stick with the long solid adapters.

[supernaut]

" And I have trimmed the length on aluminum adapters to clear bleeders and to adjust weight, but that little weight made no noticeable difference so I just stick with the long solid adapters."

Thank you Dave!

[Terry Green]

Supernaut, I've shot a lot more test animals than ground hogs so I can save you the time...

Now  why do you want to reduce the weight on a 42 grain adapter ?

[Mike Malvaini]

Just shoot Zwickey 4 blades and you wont have to worry about any 'trimming' and bleeder blades. Delta, Eskimo, No Mercey.  If you can find them.

[matt steed]

Wow! I am thankful for this discussion. I have killed deer with both set ups. But I will say that I have had two failures in the yard before season. Just last fall, I was going to use some original woodsman glue on heads, I glued a long 43 grain aluminum adaptor inside the head with hot melt glue. I was shooting a foam 3-D deer target. The adaptor broke flush with head the first shot. The shot was directly in the foam. I have had this happen to me twice over the last several years. Once using a ACE head with aluminum adaptor and this time with the woodsman and aluminum adaptor. My bows are 50#. My arrows are 2117 aluminums, with a weight of about 600 grains.

I have been thinking about taking the 75 grain steel adaptor and trying to grind a little weight off the front to make it 50 grains.

As anyone ever tried that ?

[LookMomNoSights]

Wow! I am thankful for this discussion. I have killed deer with both set ups. But I will say that I have had two failures in the yard before season. Just last fall, I was going to use some original woodsman glue on heads, I glued a long 43 grain aluminum adaptor inside the head with hot melt glue. I was shooting a foam 3-D deer target. The adaptor broke flush with head the first shot. The shot was directly in the foam. I have had this happen to me twice over the last several years. Once using a ACE head with aluminum adaptor and this time with the woodsman and aluminum adaptor. My bows are 50#. My arrows are 2117 aluminums, with a weight of about 600 grains.

I have been thinking about taking the 75 grain steel adaptor and trying to grind a little weight off the front to make it 50 grains.

As anyone ever tried that ?

Ok this is why I asked the initial question-only cuz if your somewhat familiar with the properties of aluminum,  I think most would be inclined to think the steel to be MUCH stronger! But now we got genuine experience here too with Terry, Ryan and more that have had no issues and in some cases,  favor the aluminum!  Dialing in point weight is my only reasoning for looking into this option.  I also know not all aluminum is equal (same with steel). Most aluminum inserts I’ve seen look cheaply cranked out,  but I do have some long ones in my supplies that look very cleanly machined..... they look of higher quality.  Maybe some inserts even though same material,  are better (stronger) than others?  What I gather thus far is you gotta build and target test and if they stand up to the targets, get to killing some animals with them and decide at that point I guess 
I believe at some point you could get titanium from Abowyer,  but I feel like no longer? Anyway,  I see an aluminum adapter torture test sometime in the near future 

[Terry Green]

Look Mom.... I've done my own test since the early 80s, see how yours goes and let us know for sure.

KEY, KEY is that the head must be tight at IMPACT.  I do not epoxy all of mine by far as I remove my heads from the arrow for airline travel as I have too much to do once I get to camp that to start touching up heads, something I learned 20 years ago so I need to be able to remove mine if need be.

BUT, I can tell you what will help keep them tight is to go against the norm, or wives tale, is to shoot right wing feathers. Also learned long ago shooting aluminum back in the day.  I was told that I need to shoot left wing if I was right handed. There were no judos back then and I shot a lot of field points and I remember those aluminums rattling all the way to the target way to frequently.  That 'hollow' hum rattle drove me nuts and I got TIRED of constantly tightening them so, I one day got a dozen right wing....

Case closed.... right wing spins in a direction to KEEP the tips/bheads tight, especially at impact as the rotation into the target is in the tightening direction instead of the loosening direction like left wing feathers.  The right wing shot NO different at ALL.  I also found out years later by someone that If I shot left wing I could use 'plumber's tape' which never existed when I made the switch.  Now I don't need to keep up or deal with such tape because I have 15 dozen right wing arrows at least.  However, it might help you if you are shooting left wing....

I say all that to let you all know that if your tip/bhead is NOT tight, there will be leverage applied at impact, and the more its loose at impact the weaker the post will become.  The tip/bhead MUST be flush and snug to make the best of the strength of the set up. If there is the tiniest gap - that will be the weakest link.

Hope that helps someone.... 

[Ryan Rothhaar]

Terry is right, the heads have to be glued tightly onto the adaptor AND the adaptor screwed tightly into the insert. I have had a couple of each type over the years, steel and aluminum, break off while the animal is running, with the broadhead end sticking out the other side. In all cases the break was right where the shoulder is behind the taper. I think this was due to broadhead partly unscrewing due to the end of the arrow being dragged thru brush while the animal was running.

I drag the screw threads through a little bowstring wax, this keeps the adaptor tight when screwed in.  I glue them on with hot melt.  I really don't care if the arrow or adaptor breaks while the animal is running off after the shot, it's done its job by then!



R

[hawkeye n pa]

Agree with Ryan's last post.  Used to do a lot of ground hog hunting and have ruined many  a arrow.  But only a few screw in adapters.  Had way more aluminum shafts crack, split, etc.  Remember though that rocks, locust fence posts, and old broken farm equipment was  quite often the back stop.   Haven't shot many with carbon arrow's but they have snapped off behind the insert with similar shots. 

[supernaut]

Thank you Terry, Ryan and all for the input and tips. I appreciate everyone's experience, knowledge and testing.

Terry, I was really just curious if anyone had success with taking an aluminum adapter and reducing the weight to get to a particular broadhead and adapter weight combo.

[cacciatore]

Agree with Ryan's last post.  Used to do a lot of ground hog hunting and have ruined many  a arrow.  But only a few screw in adapters.  Had way more aluminum shafts crack, split, etc.  Remember though that rocks, locust fence posts, and old broken farm equipment was  quite often the back stop.   Haven't shot many with carbon arrow's but they have snapped off behind the insert with similar shots.

This is why we foot Carbon with an aluminum sleeve