Been Quietly Working Behind The Scenes...

[Pointed_stick]

Just finished my latest attempt at bow building. A mild R/D longbow. 66" tip to tip. Arrow rest cut just shy of center. Maple and ipe with black glass backing, and elk antler tips. B55 flemish twist string. Got about 100 shots through it so far, shooting pretty well. Draw weight is lighter than I was planning on, but that is on me. I started with thinner ipe than previous attempts in order to save some work in the tiller process, and thought my math was correct based on the thickness of the other efforts. 27# at 28". I went with the tried and true ea40 epoxy this time after my failed experiments with other brands, and it was absolutely worth it. The 2 hours working time alone is not something I plan to give up any time soon.
I will try to get an image that shows what I am referring to later, but a question for those who work with glass. I sanded with 220 to scuff the surface, wiped with a dry rag, then with acetone to remove any dust before spraying finish. Most of the surface came back to a nice shiny black, the re are a few spots where there are some light gray specs etc. Is this residual sanding dust that was not removed most likely? or something else? Thank you

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Nice job! Very well could have been dust. What did you clear it with?

Another tip, go to an automotive paint store or somewhere on line and pick you up some Tack Cloths. They are used to wipe surfaces down right before you paint or clear. They a re very tacky and will pick up any dust or debris they touch. Will not leave residue harmful to paint either.

The brand I use is called Surgical Blue

[Pointed_stick]

Thank you!! I have some tack clothes...I opted against them since by touch they seem to leave some type of residue behind. At least the ones I have anyway. I used the Helmsman spar urethane over a few coats of teak oil after letting it cure for the recommended 72 hours.

[Pointed_stick]

[Pointed_stick]

[Pointed_stick]

[Pointed_stick]

[Mad Max]

So you have Black glass and Ipe on the back side of the riser?
and the last picture is to extend the fades some?

How thick is the glass?

I've seen glass on the back and Horn on the belly before but not what you have, Where did you get the idea for glass and Ipe?

This is a bamboo backed Ipe bow
In the picture you can see a 1/8" thick I call it a power lam, it's 2" longer than the riser on both sides to keep the riser from popping off.
The power lam is 1/8" thick and the last 2" on each side are tapered to zero and it's in between the bamboo and the Ipe.

[Buggs]

It looks like black glass on back and no glass on belly side.
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?

Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.

[Mad Max]

It looks like black glass on back and no glass on belly side.
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?

Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.

I agree

Ipe is very good for the belly of a bow, I believe it will hold up to the Glass backing but not sure.

[Pointed_stick]

It looks like black glass on back and no glass on belly side.
The last pic looks like the riser is getting glued on?

Thats a confusing set of pictures. Maybe you could give some details about the sequence and materials used.

It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly. The last pic is the riser being glued, as in the sequence of the build I had cut the curve for the d-flex and used it  when gluing the backing to the core. I kept them separated at that time knowing there would be some spring back after it was released from the form, the redefined the curve on the top of the riser block to more precisely match curve in the belly side of the bow that it would join to as the mating surface. So as not have the epoxy trying to bond a spring in place where the joint comes together. The pieces of maple on the fades are mostly an aesthetic detail so as to leave the alternating wood pattern exposed only on the sides.
 

[Mad Max]

You should be good with that 27# bow but for a 40/50# bow you need that power lam

[Pointed_stick]

You should be good with that 27# bow but for a 40/50# bow you need that power lam

Power lam will spread the force of the limb flex out away from the fades more?

[Pointed_stick]

Where did you get the idea for glass and Ipe?

Already had a piece of black glass, and some ipe on hand without having to buy anything....and a concept was born. Not the most scientific approach, but finacially responsible. 

[Mad Max]

You should be good with that 27# bow but for a 40/50# bow you need that power lam

Power lam will spread the force of the limb flex out away from the fades more?

Yes

[mmattockx]

It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly.

I'm interested to hear how this works out. If any wood can survive on the belly with glass on the back it will be ipe. I like the maple underlays on the riser, cleans that up nicely.


Mark

[Mad Max]

Put some wide masking tape on the belly, from tip to the fades and then brace the bow, if the tape wrinkles the belly is compressing, also masking tape on the back after bracing and then un brace it, if the tape has wrinkles it’s stretching . This may give you some idea what is going on

[Pointed_stick]

Put some wide masking tape on the belly, from tip to the fades and then brace the bow, if the tape wrinkles the belly is compressing, also masking tape on the back after bracing and then un brace it, if the tape has wrinkles it’s stretching . This may give you some idea what is going on

Interesting suggestion, thank you
I can assume that in either scenario we would want no wrinkles in a perfect outcome...

[Pointed_stick]

It is .030 Black glass on the back, no glass on the belly.

I'm interested to hear how this works out. If any wood can survive on the belly with glass on the back it will be ipe. I like the maple underlays on the riser, cleans that up nicely.
Mark

Thank you, and will be glad to keep you updated on any potential issues. I plan to shoot it a fair amount, and it is light enough draw my wife will probably get a bit of use out it as well. Is there a shot count by which we deem a combination a success? 1k, 2k....?

[Mad Max]

The back of bows stretch, and the belly compresses.

You WANT Wrinkles.  That will tell you the bows is working