Shaft Spine

[Captain*Kirk]

When choosing an arrow shaft spine for hunting arrows, do you tend to choose a spine based on the standard spine charts for your draw length, draw weight and bow type (within the recommended range) or overshoot/undershoot based on arrow flight and your preference?

[smoke]

I use the charts but if I plan to use extra point weight (over 125 grains), I will usually add on another 10-15 pounds of spine. I get the full length shafts and then bare shaft tune them with the desired point weight - just cut down the shaft until it flies right. 

[BAK]

Spine charts only give you a starting point.  You'll need to try a few till you know what works for you.  Buy about 3 shafts of various spine and go from there.   

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I use the charts but if I plan to use extra point weight (over 125 grains), I will usually add on another 10-15 pounds of spine. I get the full length shafts and then bare shaft tune them with the desired point weight - just cut down the shaft until it flies right.

Ditto

[Mark R]

Me ditto to

[M60gunner]

Me also

[katman]

Agree with above. After several bow tunings you get a feel for what spine and point weight will be close for you. Taking centershot into consideration.

[McDave]

There are a lot of variables that enter into arrow flight, including a few that would be impossible to build into any chart because they originate from the shooter.

So my preference is to bare shaft tune any new shaft I plan to use.  Bare shaft tuning accounts for all the variables, because what you see is what you get.

[ArthursParadox]

There are a lot of variables that enter into arrow flight, including a few that would be impossible to build into any chart because they originate from the shooter.
So my preference is to bare shaft tune any new shaft I plan to use.  Bare shaft tuning accounts for all the variables, because what you see is what you get.

 I completely agree, I was so confused when I first started bareshafting. For whatever the reason (still not sure) I consistently need a shaft one size stiffer than what charts tell me. I have just learned to accept it.  If I can get it to flys true bareshaft I go with it.  I stopped questioning the reasons as I don't need any more distractions.

[dhaverstick]

I usually use a dynamic spine calculator to help me narrow things down. The one you could download from Stu Miller was good but Three Rivers Archery now has an online version that is basically the same thing.

Darren

[LookMomNoSights]

Masters Of The Bare Bow, Vol. 2   Ken Beck demonstrates and explains perfectly, bare shaft tuning .........  with regard to understanding spine and choosing an arrow,  this is an absolute must see for any archer I'd say.
Spine charts will get you marginally close if one where to just build arrows using a chart and hope for the best when you let your completed arrows fly .......which is nowhere near good enough for most.  You have to bare shaft.
There may be times that you might want to shoot a particular broadhead and that head is way out of your normal weight range - example,  the lightest head that an outfit offers is a 160 and you mainly shoot 125's.  You can shoot that heavy head,  but may have to go WAY out of what a spine charts tells ya,  and your heavy broadhead won't even be noted on that chart. You'd have to do homework and best guess what shaft or adjustments to a shaft to make and then bare shaft test to confirm good flight.
You may notice that a shaft that shows a bit stiff when shot bare,  is brought right in to the money when the broadhead is finally mounted and balanced.  Every individual shaft/arrow build intended to shoot at an animal that I put together, is spine checked, bare shaft tested,  Is shot completed with broadhead at least a half dozen times and sometimes more,  before it makes the quiver to hit the woods.  I don't do a best first arrow up front thing......they all fly exactly the same and perfectly or they don't go hunting.

[Onehair]

Ditto the spine calculator. Once you figure out the arrow dynamic spine your bow likes, you never have to do it again. If you change arrow, length, spine or weight, run it through the calculator and you an see just what point weight you need to get a match. Bullet proof

[MattfromVT]

Another vote for the 3Rivers dynamic spine calculator. I shoot higher FOC arrows so the regular spine charts aren't as helpful. With the 3R tool I'll put in my bow specs and desired insert/point weigh, then cut the shaft an inch longer than it says. From there I'll fine tune by 1/8" cuts until it's where I want it.

[Captain*Kirk]

Are most of you shooting carbons?
I find it a major PITA to glue on a nock and a field point, then remove the point and cut 1/8 off, re-taper, and then glue on the point again. I shoot POC shafts...

[MattfromVT]

I shoot carbon and wood. For either I tune with only 1-2 shafts so the point removal/cutting process isn’t as annoying.

[Captain*Kirk]

I shoot carbon and wood. For either I tune with only 1-2 shafts so the point removal/cutting process isn’t as annoying.

That's generally what I do, too. No more than 3. But it's still a long, tedious process.

[GCook]

I usually use a dynamic spine calculator to help me narrow things down. The one you could download from Stu Miller was good but Three Rivers Archery now has an online version that is basically the same thing.

Darren

This.   There are a lot of old school guys that will tell you the calculators don't work but they are wrong.
Like McDave said there are a lot of variables the chart doesn't calculate.   Unless you input those values.  There is a personal variance calculator at the bottom of the 3 Rivers chart.  If your set up bare tuned differently you can adjust that up or down until it matches up to your set up.  Then every time you start with a different bow use it.  For example if yours is a negative 5 you just use that every time and it will balance your equation.
Disclaimer:. Always cut long anyway and trim down as bareshaft test indicate.  But it will get you pretty close.

[Sam McMichael]

The standard charts are usually a good starting point, but slight deviations are necessary to take into account such things as individual draw, release, etc.

[M60gunner]

I used the calculator to get me in the ballpark with my Vintage Works 62 Kodak and wood arrows. Only time I hit the spine dead on. Of course I had to “make” that spine on each shaft. Lots of work but worth it IMO.

[BUCKY]

Im bare shafting now and its making me nuts! Im shooting two arrows that are close on the chart. The one i should be shooting is way weak! The one that should be too stiff is perfect! Go figure.