Bandsaw blades ?

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

So what are you using to slice out your lams? I have a Resaw King that I just killed and looking at new blades. This thing made awesome smooth cuts but they are pricey.  I cut a bunch of phenolic and a few sets of glass limbs and then some Jatoba. Dull as a fro now.

I have a diamond blade for my table saw for the glass and phenolic in the future and will refrain from using the bandsaw and my good blade...

Pony up for another Resaw King or what are some better priced alternatives?

[Buggs]

Whatever Mad Max uses. Did you see the laminated handle bow that was done without any sanding?
Check that out

[wood carver 2]

Wood slicer resaw blade. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dave.

[Buggs]

Do you guys get your Wood Slicer's from Highland Hardware or are there other sources?

[Mad Max]

Highland woodworking

Hillbilly I don't cut anything but wood on my band saw.
The Resaw King is for cutting veneers.
I hear people keep cutting glass with dull carbide blades .

[Kirkll]

I don’t cut veneers on my bandsaw any more even though I bought a second saw just so I could.

Actually…. I just got a good deal on a 17” Jet bandsaw, not specifically for cutting veneers. I used the wood slicer from highland and also tried the timber wolf. Both worked well, but were not fun to get set up just right for veneers every time I needed it. I use that saw for other things too. 

My second bandsaw is a 14” and has a 3/4”x 3 TPI carbide tip blade I use for G-10 , glass , micarta, phenolic, and riser work. It’s all I use it for.  Very expensive blade but they last for years.

I cut my veneers on a table saw, then use the drum sander. I use a thin kerf 8.25” , 24 tooth on my 10” saw. And use 7.25” carbide tipped framing blades made by Diablo  for ripping glass and carbon. those are very thin kerf just over 1/16”.

Kirk

[Jeff tech]

Glass will wipeout a band saw quicker than shit. Don't use it on glass,no. JF

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Yea, no more glass. It was awesome and extremely smooth before I did that. I may try the Wood Slicer. I cut out my riser today with another blade and the Jatoba is mean stuff. Gorgeous  , but I will not use it again.

[Kirkll]

They make different types of blades for different purposes. If you have a saw set up with a re-saw  blade for cutting veneers, you cant use it for anything else and expect it to perform the same way.

I use a 1/2” 6 TPI for cutting radius footing lines in a riser block on my big saw. A typical re saw blade isn’t designed for radius work and using it for that pinches the set of the blade, and Glass kills em dead and dulls  the cutting edge.

A carbide “tipped”blade…. Not to be confused with a carbide steel blade. Will cut glass, carbon, micarta, and G-10 and keep on going. but cutting wood after using it on composite material it won’t perform as well. You either gotta change blades or use a different saw.   For me it’s much easier to change blades on a table saw, than a band saw. And a lot cheaper using a $10.00 carbide tipped blade.

Kirk

[Mark R]

Yep what Kirk said

[Longcruise]

Kirk, where do you find your 8 1/4" blades.?

[Kirkll]

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0840X-Diablo-4-Inch-Finishing/dp/B00008WQ2L/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AN0ASVCXKU3I&keywords=diablo+8.25%22+saw+blades&qid=1660057692&sprefix=diablo+8.25+saw+blades%2Caps%2C876&sr=8-1

[Buggs]

If you have a cabinet or tuned up saw, you might consider a higher end blade. Quite a few blade maker offer thin kerf 60T finish blades, in various diameters. I've been using a Tenryu, I can buy it locally. Its a real good blade and has only touched clean wood. The key to blade longevity and cut quality, is to clean them regularly. It does not take much resin buildup to cause a blade to heat up in use, which accelerates the dulling process.

[Shredd]

  I have a 18" bandsaw with a 1" blade on it for milling wood...  A 14" saw with a 3/4" carbide blade for general use and cutting raidus's... I love the carbide bandsaw blade...  Stays sharp and the smoothest cut..   A 10" saw with a 3/8" metal blade on it and another 10" saw with a 3/8" wood blade on it...
   I cut my Lams on a table saw with a 8" blade...  I have a jig made that cuts tapers pretty accurately...

   **  If you are wanting a pretty good small bandsaw go with a Craftsman 10" saw...  They don't make them anymore...  I don't know why...  There are other brands that have the same build...  You may want to try one of them...  All 9" saws are pieces of chit...  Have never came across a decent one yet...

[Kirkll]

If you have a cabinet or tuned up saw, you might consider a higher end blade. Quite a few blade maker offer thin kerf 60T finish blades, in various diameters. I've been using a Tenryu, I can buy it locally. Its a real good blade and has only touched clean wood. The key to blade longevity and cut quality, is to clean them regularly. It does not take much resin buildup to cause a blade to heat up in use, which accelerates the dulling process.

That's interesting Buggs.... I've been running saws for 40 years and never worried about cleaning the blades. I just send them in for sharpening. I use carbide tipped blades on all my saws except some band saw blades and hand saws. How do you go about cleaning them?   Kirk

[Buggs]

Thats funny, I always just clean my blades and never worry about sharpening

Soak them in a shallow pan of denatured alcohol for however long it takes to soften up the residue and then scrub it off with a brass brush. After its dry, it gets  2or 3 coats of Bostik GlideCote. As long as whatever is on the blade is tree based, the alcohol will dissolve it. Unless it's burnt

[Longcruise]

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0840X-Diablo-4-Inch-Finishing/dp/B00008WQ2L/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AN0ASVCXKU3I&keywords=diablo+8.25%22+saw+blades&qid=1660057692&sprefix=diablo+8.25+saw+blades%2Caps%2C876&sr=8-1

Thanks.  I have an 8.25 Dewalt and am looking for blades other than the proprietary ones.  Not that they are not good blades but the Diablo may have a thinner kerf.

[Kirkll]

Thats funny, I always just clean my blades and never worry about sharpening

Soak them in a shallow pan of denatured alcohol for however long it takes to soften up the residue and then scrub it off with a brass brush. After its dry, it gets  2or 3 coats of Bostik GlideCote. As long as whatever is on the blade is tree based, the alcohol will dissolve it. Unless it's burnt

You do this with carbide tipped blades too?   I gotta give this a try...  Kirk

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

When I first got my bandsaw,  8 decided I was going to resaw some maple that was green and had figure....bad idea. Too green. Gummed up every thing and took forever to get the sap build up off the wheels and blade.

I have several blades and have gotten good at setting them up, but decided the carbide teeth were up to the task on the glass...or maybe it was the Jatoba...

My resaw blade in the future will be like a nice suit, only drag it out for real special occasions.  Lams only...

Laguna does offer a sharpening service. May try it.

[Buggs]

Heck yeah, I do all my blades from Bandsaw to Handsaw. Especially noticeable with a hand saw, you can feel when its building friction. A motor just pushes thru it and you won't notice if you have good hearing protection, or never use hearing protection

Here is another strategy for smooth cuts on a table saw;