Simmons Broadheads true weight

[NinjaVanish]

Question for any of you that have weighed out your Simmons heads when you've gotten them:

I've ordered 175 landsharks and 190 Timbersharks that both came in around 185 grains. I'm trying to get something around 175 without too much modification. Does the 165 grain Tigershark come in heavy as well?

I know 10 grains doesn't make a hill of beans difference, but I'm pretty precise with the weights in my quiver, usually only 1-2 grains difference between them all, if that. All of my VPA heads come in relatively close to 175, usually around 180 and can work with that. Any guidance here is appreciated. 

[Terry Green]

You won't shoot the difference in 10 grains unless you are severly borderline on spine. You won't be able to shootvthe difference either as you aren't perfect like head weights.... that also vary from sharpening after 3 kills.

Paralysis by Analysis comes to mind....

Work on your shooting accuracy, via Magic T, and the animals you are chasing... both are MUCH more important that petty fretting over 10 grains.

[NinjaVanish]

Terry, while appreciate your sentiment and tend to agree to a point, I still want my quiver to be within 1-2 grains. To each his own I suppose. I even said in the OP that it didn't make a hill of beans, and it really doesn't under 25 yards. At 30-40, with the wider angles of the Simmons heads and the additional weight, I do notice a difference in drop.

[Terry Green]

Terry, while appreciate your sentiment and tend to agree to a point, I still want my quiver to be within 1-2 grains.

Learn to shoot at those distances .... quiver or no quiver nor wider or not, it matters not to me.

Best of luck getting your quiver within 1-2 grains..

[NinjaVanish]

Seems like what I'm doing does matter to you otherwise you wouldn't have responded because you completely ignored the OP and told me to do something different. And I'm not talking total weight of the quiver; I'm referring to each arrow being within 1-2 grains of each other.

[kbetts]

I can handle them being a tad heavy, but not light.  I see variations but I honestly don't weigh every broadhead.  If I feel like I took alot of material off, I may check it.  My arrow spine is pretty consistent so I'm shooting more than one weight broadhead most of the time.  Somewhere between 160-200.

I do weigh all of my finished wood arrows though.  Under 20 yds, I can't see a difference in 50 grains.  Alot of those arrows vary by a gram or 3....which is about 50 grains.

[D.Rose]

Once I get a tune I really like my arrows to match up at least within 5-8 grains of one another. That's just a confidence boost for me because I am particular on my set up. Anything that gives me extra confidence is a plus no matter what it is. Of course 99% of people will never be able to shoot to see the difference in 15 grains between each arrow but if you don't start taking those steps you will never get elite accuracy. I am one of those people who weigh out components with each other to keep tolerances tight though. It makes basically zero difference but what else do I have to do while I wait on deer season. 

For what It's worth seems like the majority of my simmons heads come in a bit light. I want a 200gr broadhead so I will add whatever gold tip weight stack I need in the back of the insert to get the total weight I need anyways.

[GCook]

I'll give you one better.  I don't weigh them.  I order 150 grain heads.  They get put on and shot.  The arrows are tuned for 150 grain heads.  I spin test them.  I can work a few things if something isn't right.  Usually it's an arrow or insert or nock adjustment issue but I'd check weight at that point a well. 
But as said I can't shoot 10 grains difference on a fletched arrow 25 yards and under. 

[LookMomNoSights]

Where's the popcorn emoji?

1 to 2 grains is the apex of critical.   That right there,  regardless of useful or not, is the difference between 2 of the same model scales.....made on the same day, one powered with Duracells and another with Energizers.
I have been fortunate and am thankful for the knowledge and experience shared by those that have come before me ....... something not to be taken for granted. I am always open to learning .....even when it means changing something I may have always thought was "the way" to do something ...........
As far as broadheads go,  I have never opened a new package of heads and weighed all of them and they come out to be exactly what the package states. This is true for all manufacturers models I have ever used .......which is a fair amount.  If that miniscule variance was of any consequence,  those manufacturers wouldn't have issues producing heads fast enough to keep up with consumer demands ......  something we seem to be experiencing these days.
I shoot lights out on targets to 40 yards with broadheads and field points,  with a 35gr difference between the 2.  I have a ballpark for total arrow weight for each individual arrow that makes it to the stand but it doesn't matter to me once I arrive at the goal.... because the goal was to make them all go where I need them to when the string is dropped.   

[Wudstix]

Never used to worry about broadheads, since I got a grain scale I check every one.  Most new heads are within 5 grain range for a dozen.  At 50-60 yards that might be significant, but my hunting shoots have all been under 18 yards. (48 yrs)  20 grains of arrow weight at 20 yards starts to be noticeable to me.  I just try to keep an arrow set matched (close) in my quiver at one time.  Do you weight each arrow, each nock, each insert, each fletch?  Analysis Paralysis is real!!!
 

[NinjaVanish]

Again, I think everyone agrees that it doesn't really matter. That was never the point of my question.

I LIKE to have my arrows coming in within 1-2 grains of each other. Is it necessary? No. Do I give a rat's ass if you think I'm overthinking it? No. It's just what I like.

Thanks to everyone who understood the question and didn't take this thread somewhere far, far away.

[GCook]

Again, I think everyone agrees that it doesn't really matter. That was never the point of my question.

I LIKE to have my arrows coming in within 1-2 grains of each other. Is it necessary? No. Do I give a rat's ass if you think I'm overthinking it? No. It's just what I like.

Thanks to everyone who understood the question and didn't take this thread somewhere far, far away.

I only owned one set of Simmons.  I'll not spend money on anymore.  Sharpen nicely, make a helluva gash.  Tips and blades bend if it hits anything solid.  Rib, offside shoulder, even a turkey.
Who cares how closely matches they are if they are one and done.  To be fair the third one has held up through a couple pigs and still ready for another one.
But no, as I said I don't weigh them.
I noticed you put your age as N/A.  It actually does.
I'd recommend you find a different web forum if arguing these types of points is what you like to do.  It doesn't work as well around here as it does places like AT.  Here it's a bit more, calm.

[sbschindler]

I have weighed several Simmons Broadheads and none weighed as advertised, the 190 grain heads weighed in at 177, my arrows were tuned to shoot 200 grains tips so I thought 190's would be pretty close, So I bought the 205 grain Simmons safari heads they weighed in at 217, but after sharpening and a bit of belt sander work they now weigh in at 207,  , most of my hunting is for elk and I need a broadhead to be fairly close to the advertised weight  because that is what I've tuned that arrow with, To me its not about not hitting the target but I want my arrow to be tuned and flying straight so I get all the penetration i need and want.

[sbschindler]

I have found the Simmons to be as tough as any other broadhead I've shot, I've put several thru elk and all performed great, my only complaint is they don't weigh as advertised, aand that is all for the tune of the arrow

[Sam McMichael]

Ninja, not being critical nor judgemental, but I was wondering if you also spec out your field points as tightly as you do your broadheads. If so, how many points, etc. do you have to try to get within the 1 to 2 grain margin for each dozen arrows you build? At what point does cost become a factor, as it seems to me that you would have to go through a lot of points, shafts, nocks etc. to build a quiver full of arrows that closely matched.
 


 

[Terry Green]

I'll tell you a Simmons  story  in a few... hold on.

[Orion]

Here's my partial answer to the question.  I had some Simmons heads. Did weigh them and they were heavier than advertised, but I don't remember by exactly how much.  However, because I was putting them on wood shafts, I just matched the heavier heads with the lighter shafts to try to arrive at relatively equal arrow weight.  Regardless, a few minutes with a file would bring them all pretty close to your goal.

My reason for discontinuing their use has already been alluded to in one post above.  The points easily bend or break when hitting a fairly solid object. 

[GCook]

Cook, not only that, but more people that actually kill stuff, not just fantasies about it like other forums.  Sorry, that's the truth.  Go find dead animals on AT. 

Bisch and I post dead animals there.  I've noticed the last couple of years others have followed suit and more barebow hunting members are posting up and some good topics are discussed.  I didn't see anything wrong with the OPs question, just his/her reasoning for the weight variance being questionable.  I know in very fast compound bows with low BHs very closely matches arrows with small run out tolerance make for a lot more accurate, long range killing arrows.
However most of the heads like Simmons or Zwiickey are not a machinced ferrel, stamped and machine sharpened blades set up to be high tolerance weight wise fly like a field point out to 100 yards.
Most barebow traditional guys think 30 yards is a poke at an animal.   Most I know like 15 or 12 even though they shoot well on foam animals at 30 yards at every shoot. 
Was the reaction unreasonable?; Maybe but the OP almost seemed like someone who knew it wouldn't be well received, a troll, and then immediately went on the offensive with his/her response to Mr. Greene. 
So you know it wasn't gonna end pretty for him.
I've questioned Mr. Greene's responses a time or two and he's questioned mine. We are both here and I hope he, like I, feels no I'll will for being asked for clarification. 
But just like TBH, THF or any other forum you don't own there are rules.  If they aren't rules you can live by, move on.  I've hit the back button many times on forums because my answer wasn't gonna help me or the thread but that has been a learned process.  And if I do post on one something I know may get me in a stink I do so with the belief what I said was to defend a valid position or how another member was treated (called names or belittled) and that getting chewed out or banned was worth the post. 
Here I think there was much fluff about not much but I do agree, show me some dead animals and I'll start to see why what you do helps you to be successful. 
That's why Bisch is one of my trad heros.

[JR Chambers]

I would just take the lightest head in the group and then reduce the weight of all the other heads to match. Then you would have matched broadheads because no company will ever have all their heads weigh the same

[Terry Green]

1st I would like to apologize for me getting a little defensive yesterday. I tried to give what I thought was good information in 2 or 3 posts and I used emoji cons with campfires and I guess I got taken completly wrong....

I've got to get my mom out of the hospital now as the doc just came out to tell what to expect and do for her.... more later...