What would you do? Tune or not to tune?

[D.Rose]

So I threw together an ILF set up and just grabbed some arrows and started shooting. Instantly I just started drilling what I was looking at. First time I have experienced anything like that since I have only been shooting traditional for the past two years. Every so often I catch the arrow coming out of the bow with a slight kick. So since it hits where I am looking and shoots so good for me should I even try to go for a good tune or just run with it? I am thinking about shooting some broadheads and if they seem ok with penetration and flight then just going with it. It's hard for me not to try and achieve a good tune but I have never had a set up feel this natural to point and shoot.

[Pat B]

If your arrows are flying well right off the bat and they shoot well with broadheads(?) I'd say go with it. The few that may hit the strike plate are probably poor release with them.
Also, if you plan to hunt with this bow this season I think now is too late to be messing with tuning if the majority of your arrows are flying well.

[Roy from Pa]

Number all of your arrows, it's possible one may be crooked or nock not aligned well.

If the arrow that always clicks is the same #, check out that arrow.

ILF bows shoot great and most are cut fairly close to center.

Sounds like you are shooting well though..

[woodchucker]

If it ain't broke... Don't "fix" it!! 

[D.Rose]

So I have another question. Is it just the set up that makes me be able to naturally hit what I am looking at and if so is it possible to tune a bow or adjust arrow set up to achieve that? I really just don't want to mess with the bow because I really like the way it's hitting with zero thought or influence from me.

[Roy from Pa]

The ILF being more center shot will shoot very well.

Bows that are not cut close to center will require a weaker spine arrow but yes you can get any bow shooting well by tuning.

[D.Rose]

Yeah I shoot my Toelke pretty dang good and shoot about the same type groups  with it as I do the ILF. I have it bareshafting excellent at 20 and almost tuned to perfection. With that said it just doesn't really hit with my eye and takes more effort to get the arrow to go where I want. I have changed arrow length and everything but I just can't get it to hit where I'm looking unlike the ILF.

[kennym]

The ilf grip may be fitting you better ...

[katman]

For me, I would shoot a bareshaft. If its tuned confidence goes way up. If not point weight or limb bolt adjustment should be all that's required if your nock point is on.

[Bowwild]

I'm having the same experience with my new Black Widow PAX Carbon. I just tuned it (brace ht) for quiet and started shooting. I'm very satisfied with my shooting out to 20 yards. I'm not shooting past that.  Of course my arrows, weight and points are set-up for the bow I'm using.

The broadhead you plan to hunt with should be shot to be sure.

[JohnV]

Why would you not want to take the time to see if there is a better set up than what you have now?

[Kirkll]

Yeah I shoot my Toelke pretty dang good and shoot about the same type groups  with it as I do the ILF. I have it bareshafting excellent at 20 and almost tuned to perfection. With that said it just doesn't really hit with my eye and takes more effort to get the arrow to go where I want. I have changed arrow length and everything but I just can't get it to hit where I'm looking unlike the ILF.

Your sight picture and shelf cut out shape is different from your Toelkey to your ILF rig, as well as the grip shape most is likely different too. It may be as simple as canting your Toelkey a bit to open up your sight window perspective.   

Try drawing both bows with an open hand pointing your index finger towards the target with your eyes closed. Then open your eyes and see where the bow is naturally canted. Often times a grip shape will not fit your natural wrist rotation shooting the bow in a vertical position,  and by having to compensate on each shot will produce  exactly what you are describing.

.02 cents.   Kirk