starting a new ALB

[Pat B]

A few years back a friend gave me a 72"x2" locust board and hickory backing. It been sitting in the utility room until today. I decided to build an American Longbow. I cut the locust and backing strip to 68" long. The locust is 11/16" thick, the hickory backing strip is just over 1/8" thick. I cut both to 1 9/16" wide and the bow limbs will have a straight tapered width to the tips. The handle riser is Eastern red cedar with a 4" handle and 4" fades.
I will have to get some glue for this glue-up. I do have Urac but as you can guess it is out of date by now and even though it's been in the refrigerator I dare not use it.
Here are a few pics of the beginning...

[Buemaker]

I am sure it will be a good one in your experienced hands.

[Mad Max]

I am sure it will be a good one in your experienced hands.

X2 on that one

[Roy from Pa]

Looking good Pat.

[onetone]

 

[Pat B]

I hope I don't let y'all down. Now I need to locate glue for the backing. I've never used Unibond but if it is similar to Urac and not too expensive I might use it. Otherwise it will probably be TBIII.

[Roy from Pa]

Unibond800 isn't very expensive, Pat.

I get a gallon for about $50.00 and that last all winter with 3 guys making bows.

They sell it in smaller quantities too.

I'm at camp now and can't remember exactly the name of the company.

I'll see if I can find it online.

[Roy from Pa]

https://www.vacupress.com/product/unibond-800-12-gallon-liquid-resin/

[Pat B]

Thanks, Roy. I wonder if I can find a smaller amount, maybe a pint. I would never use 1/2 gallon. I'll keep looking. I can also try to find Weldwood Plastic Resin. I've used it a bit. It is similar to Urac I used years ago.
 How's the cabin treating you? I knew once y'all got there you wouldn't want to leave.     

[Buggs]

Exciting to see all these wood bows being built!

That Locust looks like it has some short grain running belly to back. Any concerns about that?

[Pat B]

Phil, it does have some short run offs but it was what was given to me so I'll just have to see how she works out. It also has 2 knots on the sides that run across or into the limb area so that's another concern. I guess we'll just have to see what happens.
 I will pre-tiller the belly first so I get a smooth, even bending before glue up. I'll cut out the back profile soon and start that pre-tillering and keep y'all posted with the results. She may not even make it past that. 

[Buggs]

I got some extra fiberglass sleeve, in case you want to go to the dark side

[Pat B]

   Yuck!!!   

 I found a little lateral warp in the stave so I thought I'd try to straighten it with heat. I clamped it to a old, real, pine 2x4 with a thin spacer at the center line holding it to the form and clamped the end to the 2x4 then heated both sides along the limb. I'll give it a few hours at least and see if it straightened. Any slight lateral bend that may remain I'll deal with once I get the back profile cut out and pre-tillered to an even bending state. At that point there will be less wood to move for the correction.
 a few more pics...

[Kirkll]

I hope I don't let y'all down. Now I need to locate glue for the backing. I've never used Unibond but if it is similar to Urac and not too expensive I might use it. Otherwise it will probably be TBIII.

The unibond is basically the same product as Urac Pat. Made by the same Nelson Paint Co. I would use that over TBIII for its durability in all weather conditions.    Kirk

[Pat B]

I would, Kirk but in my almost 40 years of wood bow building I wouldn't have use 1/2 gallon of Unibond. If I could find a pint or quart I would buy it but so far all I see is 1/2 or 1 gallon sizes.

[Pat B]

I just released the stave and there was no change so I used a thicker spacer and tried it again isolating the bend a little more. I guess we'll see.

[Kirkll]

I would, Kirk but in my almost 40 years of wood bow building I wouldn't have use 1/2 gallon of Unibond. If I could find a pint or quart I would buy it but so far all I see is 1/2 or 1 gallon sizes.

Well I would probably use it for one project or another myself, so I looked into purchasing some through that site Roy provided. I thought I could buy a gallon and just send you what you need….. but…. They only ship via FED-ex and the shipping is as much as the glue is.    

I’m going to have to look into finding a local supplier that carries it. I’m not going to pay $30 shipping for $30 worth of glue….. I gave it a shot bro….

I did notice that they have 3 colors on the hardener powder now. Makes me wonder how clear the white powder looks. The old urac was great for dark woods , but you could see all the glue lines on lighter colored wood.

Has anyone here got any experience with the white hardener?    Kirk

[Kirkll]

I just released the stave and there was no change so I used a thicker spacer and tried it again isolating the bend a little more. I guess we'll see.

Do you introduce any moisture or steam when you are trying to reshape the stave? Or do you just use heat?    Kirk

[Pat B]

I appreciate the thought and effort, Kirk. I'll keep looking. Do you know anything about Cascamite glue? It seems to be a urea type glue also. I've heard it mentioned before but don't remember the results.
 Usually with slight corrections I just use my heat gun. I get the wood just too hot to touch, clamp it on the form, reheat and let it sit until cool, usually over night. My initial attempt I released it after a few hours. It felt cool to the touch but it didn't help so I used a thicker block(3/8") reheated it well and left it overnight. That brought the offending back in line or almost so. I may do another session before glue up.
 I did cut out the back profile on the belly and backing. I think I will glue on the riser so I can start the pre-tillering to get the limbs to bend evenly and together and get a good shape with the riser blending into the belly well.


back view

belly view
  That far tip looks a bit off center so I will make an adjustment there before I go any further.

[Kirkll]

"Do you know anything about Cascamite glue? It seems to be a urea type glue also. I've heard it mentioned before but don't remember the results."

I'm afraid not. Never worked with it.   Sorry.... Kirk