Here are some things you can do to manipulate the string tension and watch how the limbs are bending once you get your tracking issue resolved. Play with different string lengths and limb pad angles. Look at the way they bend and what it does to your string angle at 30-32" draw lengths. If you are so inclined, you can set up an in line scale and measure your string tension and compare the different string lengths and preload put in the limbs with your adjustable riser.....
You need not go down a technical rabbit hole with all the DFC charts and testing to come up with a very nice shooting product. A good eye, and some limb balancing will do the trick nicely. But some guys are into all the nitty gritty details. But..... the in line scale will open your eyes to how much just string length and different brace height does to your performance. an AMO bow length is not measured by the string length. Its tip notch to tip notch around the curl and straight through the riser.
While you are still prototyping it don't matter what bow length you have or brace height either for that matter. Cut it down some more until it tracks straight, then move the stop in your form to add the length you want on the but end......Thats how i build medium and long limbs on my RC and hybrid bows, i have a 1'' longer stop for the long limbs. i used a 10.5" finished wedge on medium limbs, and its 11.5" on the long limbs, with the tip notch in the same location on the hooks. This keeps the dynamics the same.
Its how those limbs are bending that matters and how much energy they are storing. The preload or string tension will determine how well your limbs stop, and transfers the energy rather than staying in the limbs.
Here is an example of 10 degrees vs 15 degrees on my SS limbs when i was first getting them dialed in. notice the very straight limb at brace vs the the one with a slight bend at brace. Then look at the two limb pad angles and where the limbs are bending....
Topic: Static limb help (Read 2256 times)
