I need some wisdom from the wiser !

[Bryan Adolphe]

So I was going to start out by trying to build some lighter limbs for a recurve I have and I got to looking at the existing limbs and I noticed two completely different size wedges correct me if I’m wrong but is that uncommon ?

The bottom limb the wedge measures approximately .300 and the top limb measures approximately .240 quite a difference. Anyways I built my wedges .300 to nothing by 8 inches same as what’s on the existing bottom limb.
My big question is the more I read the more I’m worried about my new limbs getting too thin up by the hooks and I’m gonna have troubles with them , existing limbs going into the hooks measure approximately .200 The lams I cut and .040 glass will come in at approximately .175 at the base of the hooks do you think they will go squirrelly ? ,and  would a tip wedge help?
Or should I just glue up see what the heck happens ! 
The limbs are 23 inches from nock to bolt.
Total stack .250
Both Maple lams tapered .002

[garyschuler]

I would venture that they are the same or very close. You would need a dial indicator to get a better measurement. Those t - squares get stamped off all the time just like tape measures. I could be wrong but hey the Boss says so all the time.!!!Hope ya get it squared away. No pun intended.!!!!

[Crooked Stic]

If you are talking total .004 taper with very much hook they gonna go sideways unless everything is perfect. Be better off with a parallel stack. Or a tip wedge.

[Kirkll]

I believe a big reason that existing set of limbs is tracking correctly is the .200 thickness at the base of the hook…. But without seeing the bow unstrung it’s just a guess. What is the draw weight on those limbs?

I have never seen different size wedges on one set of limbs before. It is uncommon.

A pair of .002 tapers would give you an .004 forward taper. This is unheard of on recurve limbs. Most recurves have a max forward taper of .002, and when the limbs get less than .190 at the base of the curl, they start loosing torsional stability and become very squirrelly.  ( I’m referencing static tip RC limbs too)

For anything under 50# I would recommend an .001 FT, and less than 40-43# go with a parallel. Or you could use .002 reverse tapers to bring them parallel, or thicker at the base of the curl.

Of course a lot of it depends on how radical the hook is, and how far out on the hook the tip notches are placed.

Can you post photos of the bow assembled unstrung?     That would be helpful

Kirk

[Bryan Adolphe]

Thank you guys good to know the answers now before I wreck some good Glass Kenny lives a long ways away from me lol This is the first recurve I ever owned bought it many years ago it’s 60” 19” riser 51#@28, I would like to come close at around 45 or even a little less with my back issues right now I would like to carry on shooting but not at 51. If anyone’s got a recipe they wanna throw at me to give it a try I’m sure I’ll get a lot closer than if I try and dream one up  I have no problem experimenting it is fun that way , the lams that i cut can be used somewhere else so I think I may start over. B

[Mad Max]

Anyways I built my wedges .300 to nothing by 8 inches same as what’s on the existing bottom limb.
My big question is the more I read the more I’m worried about my new limbs getting too thin up by the hooks and I’m gonna have troubles with them , existing limbs going into the hooks measure approximately .200 The lams I cut and .040 glass will come in at approximately .175 at the base of the hooks do you think they will go squirrelly ? ,and  would a tip wedge help?
Or should I just glue up see what the heck happens ! 
The limbs are 23 inches from nock to bolt.
Total stack .250
Both Maple lams tapered .002

Your starting out with 1-3/4" glass?
I think it could be done but everything would have to line up down the center.
I have done it with no problems but my forms are square and straight. stable-kore would help too.

[Kirkll]

If you are mounting the new limbs on that same riser, I bet you can get away with an .002 forward taper just fine. The hooks are not real aggressive, and the limb pad angle is laid back to about 20 degrees I’d guess by looking at it.The shorter wedges are working in your favor too by allowing the limb to flex a bit closer to the riser, and the forward grip placement is helping you too. The shape of the limb at brace looks good on that bow. If you adjust your string length to match that limb shape, I think you’ll be in good shape.

If you have 4 .002 tapers right now, just flip one end for end and that will give you an .002. Flipping 2 of them end for end will give you a parallel. Try the .002 and if it’s too squirrelly, flip 2 of them on the next go round.

Are there any overlays on the belly side of the limb curl? If so, these are working as external tip wedges, and are stiffening up the curl making it more static. You never mentioned if the existing limbs have tip wedges in the core.

When doing a swag lay up, (scientific wild ass guess) I would get enough glass and lams milled for two sets of limbs all cocked and ready to go. Then if you miss weight by more than 8-10 pounds, you can adjust the stack height accordingly and go again. Typically figuring .002 per pound will get you close on your adjustment using .040 glass backing. Sanding glass is close to the same ratio.

Note*. Type of wedge material used , length, and the taper rate of the wedge can effect how that limb bends significantly. With a flatter limb pad angle on your riser, longer thinner wedges work better than a fast taper wedge and push the working portion out further and eliminates a hinge off the fades.

Fitting limb butts into a radius limb pocket in the riser is not for the faint of heart. I experimented with building a replica of an old Cascade Golden Hawk years ago, and never was real happy with my limb butt connections shaping by hand. I think you would need to set up jigs and mill those limb butts to get decent consistency for both the riser and limb butts. But a jig could be built for a pattern sander too.

Good luck on that portion of your project. You’ll need patience to pull it off.

Kirk

Kirk

[Bryan Adolphe]

Thanks guys I think I will remove one .002 taper and replace it with a parallel that should solve that I believe, no there was no tip wedge or overlays on the existing limbs, I’m not sure what the correct Termanology is but there is a Limb butt overlay were it seats in the riser I’m guessing that works in conjunction with the Limb wedge also?
An overlay applied to the tips on the belly side would that be done after the layup over top of the glass ? Cheers Bryan

[Mad Max]

An overlay applied to the tips on the belly side would that be done after the layup over top of the glass ? Cheers Bryan

Yes after

It works both ways, something to have a belly string groove and will add some stiffness at .030 and more stiffness at .060

[Bryan Adolphe]

 

[Kirkll]

An overlay applied to the tips on the belly side would that be done after the layup over top of the glass ? Cheers Bryan

Yes after

It works both ways, something to have a belly string groove and will add some stiffness at .030 and more stiffness at .060

I like laying up the overlay when i lay up the limbs myself. Much easier. better transition.  I think i already shared a video on how i do mine.    Kirk