Now the ONE Survival Arrow Shaft

[Terry Green]

Now that we have the broadhead and bow threads running....

Tell us your choice for Survival Shafting......

[smokin joe]

If I can fill my bow quiver I would pick 3-rivers Traditional Only carbon -- they are very tough and they shoot straight. I use some other carbons that I like as well, but if I had to limit myself to only one brand I would pick the 3RTO.

If I had to have just one arrow in my quiver that had to last through a lot of kills, maybe I would select a bow-fishing shaft. They are incredibly sturdy.

[smokin joe]

By the way, these are very interesting threads, Terry. Makes a guy think.

[David McLendon]

Not available anymore but I've been using them for years and made sure I had enough in all sizes to not run out.
Carbon Express Heritage
 They are tough as hell, and I have torn up very few over the years.

[George Tsoukalas]

I'll go with a hickory arrow. I'll loose it before it breaks. Jawge

[durp]

What Jawge said but with self nocks

[GCook]

Beman Centershot 340.

[woodchucker]

WOOD... If I run out, I can always make more.

[JR Chambers]

Easton Axis

[KentuckyWolf]

If I have access to nothing…hickory…hands down.

If I can have nocks, inserts, etc. then it’s carbon express heritage.




I still got a pile of the Cx HE 250s….but got to switch to something else eventually.

[Carpdaddy]

Easton Axis Full Metal Jacket.

[STICKBENDER98]

Like Joe said, if I can fill my back quiver, Surewood Shafts Doug Firs, 60-65# spine. If only one shaft I'm going with a 500 spine Gold Tip with an aluminum footing.  I really like his thoughts on a bow fishing arrow for durability.


Jason

[2fletch]

If starting the survival trek with no arrows, I"d look at what was available. I once made shafts from a variety of materials, including blackberry briar, wild rose, and dog fennel. The dog fennel requires a lot of drying, but makes a decent survival shaft. I tested it by shooting a 20 target 3-d round, and a month later shot a raccoon that I thought might be rabid.  It's not carbon, or hickory, but in a survival situation, they may not be available

[KentuckyWolf]

Any port in a storm….but given an option or choice?

[Sam McMichael]

Hmmm... In survival mode, it would probably have to be wood based on availability. Hickory or river cane would be high on my list.  Since we are limited to only one, I would go for cane.

[Mark R]

Hickory, I shot one into 50 gal. steel drum, I still shoot it.

[Pat B]

My all time favorite is sourwood shoot shafts. Heavy, full length taper and virtually unbreakable. My second choice is hill cane which grows along the creek that runs through our property here in the Southern Appalachian Mountains. It makes an excellent arrow shaft with it's full length taper, it is heavy and very durable.

[r05c03]

My all time favorite is sourwood shoot shafts. Heavy, full length taper and virtually unbreakable. My second choice is hill cane which grows along the creek that runs through our property here in the Southern Appalachian Mountains. It makes an excellent arrow shaft with it's full length taper, it is heavy and very durable.

Sourwood, as in Oxydendrum arboreum? I will have to check that out and maybe get a couple specimens. I wonder how it will accept coppicing. I coppice Osier Dogwood for basketry and arrow making. I should try some sourwood.

[Pat B]

Yes, that sourwood. I find my best shoots along road cuts that are bush hogged every few years. When collecting any shoots for shafting be sure it is second year growth. When these shoots grow the first year they reach their ultimate height and have leaves growing along the shoot. The second year small branches grow where the leaf scars are from last year. After the growing season is the best time to harvest them. I assume they can be coppiced but I also walk our woods looking for shoots at the top or along the trunk of small trees. This is common for sourwood. These shoots can be from 6" long to 6' long with the ones around 36" being about perfect. My finished shafts are 30" long with a 5/16" nock end(I use self nocks only) and a 3/8" point end. Sometimes I have to use a thumb plane to reduce them. You can also remove the bark as soon as you harvest them with very little checking if any unlike most other shoots I've harvested.

[Terry Green]

Sorry for the confusion, this question is for what shaft would you want to have in survival, not what you make in the woods.