Recurving a red oak board bow.

[Robyn Hode]

I was working on a HBO bow until the back cracked. So Until I figure out what I want to do with the HBO, I decided to play with a red oak board bow I started. I’m thinking about recurving the ends some but I have never done it. So I have some questions for the experts. The bow is 64” ntn and 1 1/2” at fade tapered to 1/2” at the tips. From the tip to about 10” in the bows thickness is about 1.25”. How far from the tip should I start the recurve? I was going to steam it for about an hour. Is that long enough? Also do you actually put the tip in the water when steaming? Just trying to learn something new. Thanks.

[Kirkll]

You'll probably get better advice from these all wood bowyers than me, but..... I have worked with a lot of red oak building cabinets and furniture.

For really tight radius work i like to soak my boards over night in water, then put them in my steamer for about an hour, then clamp them up to my form and let them dry a couple days.   But.... It depends on the thickness of the material you are bending, and the current MC levels, as well as the radius.... you will get quite a bit of spring back from red oak.

With wood bows, introducing too much moisture during the steaming process might not be beneficial due to drying time afterwards. If its bone dry now... i think steaming after soaking it awhile would work ok. if it's 12% or higher MC level, you might just need heat to bend it....    .02 cents worth..... Kirk

[KenH]

Steaming is steaming -- not boiling.  Keep the tip out of the water.  The bow tips are 1-1/8" thick and 1-1/2" wide???  Don't steam until you've got the bow floor tillered, it will be MUCH easier to bend!

[Mad Max]

There was a guy on here years ago that made a how to on Red Oak board bows. 4est trekker  was his name.
I don't think your bow is wide enough, he went with 2-1/2" wide at the fades, and glued on a tip overlay 3/4" thick and 4" + long, this way he could sand the bottom off and make it a recurve.
Something like this, 4" of glue surface should hold up.

I think the how to is long gone but I found this and he made a comment on the topic.

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=148893.0

[mmattockx]

I’m thinking about recurving the ends some but I have never done it. So I have some questions for the experts. The bow is 64” ntn and 1 1/2” at fade tapered to 1/2” at the tips. From the tip to about 10” in the bows thickness is about 1.25”.

At that length and width I wouldn't suggest recurving it unless you are aiming for a very light draw weight, like <30lb @ 28" or shorter. I have made some red oak board bows and the wood is pretty marginal for anything but a moderate weight flat bow unless you are very skilled at tillering or otherwise manipulating the wood to keep stresses low.

If you still insist on trying to recurve it then you will need to get the thickness at the bend down to 1/2" or less or it will never work with oak.

There was a guy on here years ago that made a how to on Red Oak board bows. 4est trekker  was his name.
I don't think your bow is wide enough, he went with 2-1/2" wide at the fades, and glued on a tip overlay 3/4" thick and 4" + long, this way he could sand the bottom off and make it a recurve.
Something like this, 4" of glue surface should hold up.

I think the how to is long gone but I found this and he made a comment on the topic.

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=148893.0

This is a far better way to go than trying to steam bend red oak. A similar technique from Tim Baker is shown at the end of the recurve chapter in TBB Vol. 2.


Mark

[Mad Max]

I think this is a good one but only view a couple times.

 The "So You Wanna Build a Bow?" Build-Along  (Read 33344 times)

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108949.0

[Longcruise]

That's a good one.  Success hinges on the board selection (coming from a non-expert )

[Pat B]

I've made a few red oak board bows, most being hickory backed though. I've used the tip overlay method Mark suggests above with good results but just remember to be sure the string groove isn't out past the end of the limb or leverage could cause the tip overlay to come loose which could be disastrous.

[Robyn Hode]

I’m not set on recurving the bow. I just want to try something different. I will look into the 4est trekker how to. I think I have it saved off somewhere.
I will also check out Tim Baker’s section in TBB vol. II. Been awhile since I have read that. Thanks.
 

[Longcruise]

My experience with board bows is that they are more resistant to shaping at least with steam.  I think it’s related to the difference between kiln and natural air drying.  Baker talks about it in TBB.

[Mad Max]

I’m not set on recurving the bow. I just want to try something different. I will look into the 4est trekker how to. I think I have it saved off somewhere.
I will also check out Tim Baker’s section in TBB vol. II. Been awhile since I have read that. Thanks.

That is the link (above) to 4est build, photobucket killed the photos. I do have a few sheets printed with pictures I will share if you want.
If you could make it 2-1/2" wide at the fades it would hold up better.

[Longcruise]

Red oak always worked best for me as a pyramid bow.  And, if carefully done is probably the most sure fire design for a board.