2023 What did you do today....

[Kirkll]

I built a couple of wood ones that were limb pad angle adjustable out of red oak that i could shoot with when i first started messing with it, but i couldn't change the riser length and i threw em in the wood stove....

What i found the easiest way to fine tune limb pad angle on a new limb design was building the first few in ILF format. then i could adjust as i shot them with the limb bolt.   Kirk

[Mad Max]

I've milled a lot of aluminum, all it needs is a lubricant.
It mills fast also. Mill right to left starting on the back side and it throws the chips behind the mill.

What is happening??

[Kirkll]

I milled this anchor caddy for my boat last year. That’s a 40 pound anchor made for the Columbia river in serious current. I built that too from solid stock steel.

[kennym]

Mike I think it was Benbow, believe actual name was Galen Benson...

[Jon Lipovac]

Maybe I can shoot this thing. 31” draw crossbow!

I’ve got a question for you guys. I came in way heavy on these limbs for some reason. I had changed my limb pad angle from 17* to 16* to give a little more preload, but didn’t expect them to come in so much heavier than the bow I built for Stic in the swap. Same stack, I thought, but came in 18lbs heavier.

In an effort to reduce the weight I narrowed the limbs more than usual and went way narrower than planned as I turned my thickness sander wheel the wrong way a whole turn.( I made a jig/sled I use to profile the limbs in my drum sander to get a more consistent and even shape on both sides of the limb)

Anyhow. These limbs are profiled more like a long bow than a recurve but seem to be way more stable than I thought they would be. Pics are at 31”. Temp string grooves in tips. I was gonna trash these limbs but am now thinking of finishing them out. I don’t think I would go this narrow on any bow I would give or sell to someone but I’m thinking they might actually work.

How narrow have you guys gone on recurve limbs before? These are 1” at the base of the curve and .5” at the string grooves.

[Longcruise]

Mike I think it was Benbow, believe actual name was Galen Benson...

That's it.  Thanks, Kenny.  He was an inveterate experimenter.  He never quit right up until the end.  He was a man of Faith.

[Longcruise]

Here's his riser.

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=156248.msg2698041#msg2698041

[Jon Lipovac]

Nice!

[Mad Max]

Not just today but I've been tillering the boo backed osage glue-up James Parked gave me at the Classic. The tillering is done and I have 4 coats of Tru-Oil on her. Should be done in a few days(if it would quit raining) and I'll post more pics then.

bottom bow in this pic

Nice Pat
Show us a braced and full draw

[Pat B]

I will tomorrow, Mark.

[Mad Max]

 

[Kirkll]

“How narrow have you guys gone on recurve limbs before? These are 1” at the base of the curve and .5” at the string grooves.”


I’ve built them that narrow before many times, and the ones that came in 65# and I lowered to 53# were seriously fast…. As long as they are stable torsionally, and tracking straight, you are in good shape…. 

Believe it or not… it’s the thickness of the limb at the base of the curl that determines your stability much more than width. A deeper core narrow limb beats a wide profile any day in performance.   

Kirk

[Mad Max]

Recurve 60" NTN 44#@28"---1-1/4" wide limbs at the fades--.002 forward taper.

Base of the curve .940 wide and .200 thick
.437 wide at the nock

[Jon Lipovac]

Kirk and Max.
Thanks for the replies. That gives me the confidence to finish these out and not be a waste of time.

[Mad Max]

Kirk and Max.
Thanks for the replies. That gives me the confidence to finish these out and not be a waste of time.

Your glue up form needs to be straight with no warping and the glue surface square to the form all the way out.

[Kirkll]

Kirk and Max.
Thanks for the replies. That gives me the confidence to finish these out and not be a waste of time.

Your glue up form needs to be straight with no warping and the glue surface square to the form all the way out.

That is damn good advice… nothing worse than building a built in twist to a recurve bow.  Even with TD limbs , checking that those limbs are Exactly 90 degrees from a machined surface from the limb pads to the tips is very important.

Kirk

[Kirkll]

I milled a few TD Bare wedges today and got a set laid up…

[Crooked Stic]

I done a little horse trading with Jon L. A guy gotta keep a high ender around. Got this Stalker. Not bad looking and a good shooter.

[Crooked Stic]

Just found out something that I never thought would work. I have removed the H&L from my baby drum and use spray adhesive and strap tape the ends. The adhesive had been a bear to get off the drum using lacquer thinner. So I remember someone saying the used mineral spirits to clean the drum. Never thought it would work better than lacquer thinner or acetone. 

[Kirkll]

I wouldnt think you would need much adhesive on that drum to hold the sand paper. Are you using spray contact cement? you would think lacquer thinner would work well... Mineral spirits eh?   learn something every day.