Easton Full Metal Jackets--I was wrong!

[iohkus]

First I've heard about the JB Weld. I love FMJ's and will try the JB. Thanks Steveo!
  Will  

[Steve O]

Originally posted by FerretWYO:
I like it. Welcome to the dark side Steve O

  Randy, this thread is 5 years old...I am the KING of the "Dark Side"      

[Jayrod]

Originally posted by Steve O:
 

Originally posted by FerretWYO:
I like it. Welcome to the dark side Steve O

  Randy, this thread is 5 years old...I am the KING of the "Dark Side"       [/b]

Hahahahaha Classic!! Thxs for the infor the info steve o your a Goodman!!

[Jayrod]

Originally posted by Steve O:
 

Originally posted by FerretWYO:
I like it. Welcome to the dark side Steve O

  Randy, this thread is 5 years old...I am the KING of the "Dark Side"       [/b]

Hahahahaha Classic!! Thxs for the infor the info steve o your a Goodman!!

[damascusdave]

Mike I shoot .340 spine FMJ's out of my LXR which you may be familiar with...I started with three and after shooting them a lot into all sorts of things I finally bent one some which still did not cause it to shoot badly...I just happened to notice when I rolled it...the other two are still my primary hunting arrows...I shot both of them into the ground this fall shooting at grouse with no harmful effects...I use VPA two blades and they mesh nicely with great alignment...I am a devoted FMJ shooter

DDave

[Jayrod]

Sorry doublepost

[Bowwild]

Thanks for this report Steve O.  I have a dozen and have only cut one to length. It was a trial in case I wanted a different "rain arrow" with vanes in my quiver.

I thought the same thing that they couldn't be as tough as the carbon. I figured the aluminum outer tube was just a way to make carbon take a bend.

I'll consider these arrows a little differently now.

[John Havard]

Steve, I want to be sure I understand - you glue the inserts into the front of the shafts with JB Weld?  I can easily see doing that for gluing the BH insert into the BH (metal-to-metal).  But the JB Weld does a good job of joining the aluminum (or other metal) insert to the carbon shaft?  If so that's a really cool use for JB Weld.

[2treks]

John, I have been using JB weld for gluing inserts into my carbons for about 15yrs. Maybe more. Very few have ever pulled out and I can usually determine that my prep was poor. the shafts that I prep thoroughly have never had an issue.
CTT

[DarkTimber]

I use the JB Weld for my inserts on regular Axis shafts.  I started doing this after reading the post by Steve O and the difference between it and the H.I.T. epoxy is unbelievable. Since switching I have not had an insert push in the shaft after impacting a hard object.  I have found I still need to foot my shaft because if it impacts a hard object at an angle it will actually bend the threaded part of the tip/broadhead adapter cracking the edge of the raw carbon, but the insert doesn't budge.  I'm confident if I was shooting the FMJ instead of the all carbon Axis the footing would not be necessary.

[tracker12]

Any special prep needed for using the JB weld.

[2treks]

I will slightly score the inside of the shaft with a dental pick or sandpaper rolled up. I like some bite for the epoxy.
Then clean very well with denatured alcohol.
I do the same for the inserts

Mix up the JB and COVER ALL PARTS. Push in the insert and twist/turn/push-in/pull-out until well covered and let it dry.
Done.

[Steve O]

Originally posted by John Havard:
Steve, I want to be sure I understand - you glue the inserts into the front of the shafts with JB Weld?  I can easily see doing that for gluing the BH insert into the BH (metal-to-metal).  But the JB Weld does a good job of joining the aluminum (or other metal) insert to the carbon shaft?  If so that's a really cool use for JB Weld.

Yes John, HIT insert to shaft. I clean the inside of the shaft and the inserts. I take a stainless steel brush and spin it inside the shaft to rough it up, then clean the inside of the shaft again.

Light coat of JB Weld on the stepped part of the insert, spin,push in to about 1/8" of flush, wipe off excess, the plunge to proper depth with HIT tool.

Lay FLAT on the table (so inserts don't slide!) and let cure. I leave the unused mixture of JB out so I know when it is totally cured.

ROCK solid.

I do sometimes use it for the point to insert glue joint, but only when I am sure I will not be changing weight. I think it is not reversible.

[Steve O]

Chuck types faster    :D

I typically use denatured alcohol as well. On the metal stuff I pour it in the female portion of the point and shake it up , pour it out, then light it up to burn off all the impurities. I use some needle nose for the inserts to do the same.

[damascusdave]

I use hot melt to glue inserts in mine...never had an issue and a bit of heat on a long field point lets me easily pull or turn inserts...I also hot melt glue in my VPA Penetrators...makes for a very unitized shaft/broad head mating

DDave

[MnFn]

I have a few FMJ's and they do shoot nice- never hunted with them yet.

With 145 grain heads, they are hard to pull out of my bag target- the back of the heads catch as they stick out wider than the shaft. Are there done field points that are better for skinny shafts?

Gary

[M60gunner]

There are 9/32 field points for skinny shafts. I use them for my Axis arrows. I use the 145 grain ones. Is FMJ same outside diameter? I do not know that answer.

[M60gunner]

There are 9/32 field points for skinny shafts. I use them for my Axis arrows. I use the 145 grain ones. Is FMJ same outside diameter? I do not know that answer.
I use golf shaft epoxy, for gluing the heads of the "woods" to the carbon golf shafts. I figured hitting a golf ball (shock) is similar to an arrow hitting a hard object. Only downside is it is not reversible. I melted a carbon trying.

[highlow]

Shot FMJs in my wheelie days a couple of years ago. Managed to bend a couple when not getting a pass through and the deer rolling on them. Also recall splitting the shaft of at least one when contacting a rock after getting a pass through. Didn't use JB so if I had might not have happened. Can only speculate though.  Other than that, I liked them.

[Sixby]

I blew the ends off of two of them when I first got mine. Split the shafting about three inches up. I Stopped stumping with them after that and will not again until I foot them. I find them to be not much better than most other Premium arrows including xx75 and xx78 aluminums which are bunches cheaper and straighter to start.. They are sure cool looking arrows though. Now I have to get some inserts and fix these up.
God bless, Steve