I am SO lost!

[kyhuntertoo]

I just started shooting a recuve about 2 weeks ago.  Fifty pound Bear Kodiak Supreme.  I feel like I'm already getting used to the draw and the weight.  I have 2 2117's, 2 Gold Tip 5575's (trad, wood grain finish), a 2016, a 2314, and a 2413.  All are cut to 29" and tipped with 145 grain points and 5 inch feathers.  The shafts range in weight from 470 to 570 I shot quite a bit yesterday, trying to see which arrow flies the best, but i just don't know what i'm looking for. I'm just to inconsistent right now to move forward with a particular shaft.  I'll put an arrow or two in the bullseye, then the next one will miss by a foot.  I'll never get good groups because of the different weights and spining plus I'm still too new.  The 2016 seems to fly pretty well but it's one of the lightest.  I just feel like I can't concentrate on getting good groups because my point of aim is different because of the weight differences. I need to go ahead and make a choice but all of my "results" are not consistent.  Any suggestions?

[laddy]

The guys will need the marked draw length to the far side of the bow.  If your draw is short or long could make a big difference on these shaft sizes.  If it is shorter than 28'' you could be over spined on every arrow.  The 2016 would be the closest.

[kyhuntertoo]

i don't know what the "marked" draw lenght is.  the arrows are cut to 29 and they are hanging over the shelf about 1.5 inches.

[STIKNSTRINGBOW]

how is your form? consistant release is almost more important than arrow, with consistancy you can get accuracy and see how arrow is impacting target. get closer to target so that they all hit and see if they are impacting tail up, tail down, right or left,once you get them all on target you can see if the problem is arrow, or bow, or the nut on the riser.

[kyhuntertoo]

being overspined on those shafts would be okay, all i need to do is add some front in weight which would help with the FOC and add overall weight.  but i have been to 3 shops and cannot find any insert weights around here. trad does not seem to be real popular here.

[frassettor]

Make sure you bare shaft tune. Make sure your feathers are cut off, step back 10 yards and try to see if the knock kicks left or right. I use a styrafoam target to bareshaft because it is a soft target and you can see how your arrows are sticking out of the target. If they are sticking out nock right, that means your spine is to stiff, try using a heavier tip, or use a longer arrow. If the arrow is sticking out nock left, that means your spine is to weak, try cutting a little off ( I do 1/4 at a time), until you cant cut anymore off, then you will have to go to a stiffer spine. 3 Rivers has a great tester kit for both field points, and arrows.

[kyhuntertoo]

i'm sure if any trad shooter saw my shoot they'd probably puke.  i am trying to make a consistent anchor point and cant the bow the same way every time.  my grip pressure is very light.  i have no mentor or coach to tell me if i'm doing anything right or wrong.

[kyhuntertoo]

i didn't even think to bareshaft shoot.  bought just enough feathers to fletch up that half dozen and they're all done.  now i got to cut them off?!  i've already spent fifty bucks on arrows and don't even more than two of the same.  this is getting expensive quickly.

[Toxophilite]

In your first post you said you just started with a recurve.  Are you saying you just took up traditional archery or have you just switched from longbow to recurve?

[kyhuntertoo]

i just switched from a compound to a recurve.

[frassettor]

Sent you a pm

[kyhuntertoo]

Originally posted by frassettor:
Make sure you bare shaft tune. Make sure your feathers are cut off, step back 10 yards and try to see if the knock kicks left or right. I use a styrafoam target to bareshaft because it is a soft target and you can see how your arrows are sticking out of the target. If they are sticking out nock right, that means your spine is to stiff, try using a heavier tip, or use a longer arrow. If the arrow is sticking out nock left, that means your spine is to weak, try cutting a little off ( I do 1/4 at a time), until you cant cut anymore off, then you will have to go to a stiffer spine. 3 Rivers has a great tester kit for both field points, and arrows.

okay, but with which shafts?

[Killdeer]

The 2016 is the closest you have to your correct spine. What you need to do is get at least 6 of them together and shoot only them. I think a 145 grain point would be best, and I can send you some if you don't have a closeby place to get them.

Stack all the other arrows in a spare quiver and forget about them. Practice your shooting, watch the form videos on this site, and practice some more. Don't confuse yourself with too much information or tuning, or fussing with equipment. A 2016 will hit the target well enough that you can concentrate on developing your fundamental shot sequence.

PM me if you need the points, and let me know how it goes.

Killdeer  

[kyhuntertoo]

i had my (soon to be) wife trying to "watch" arrow flight yesterday......as best as she could.  i got to say the 2016 probably flew the best and most consistent. that and then maybe the 2314.  but that is probably the lightest arrow.  it's not really any louder, but is it going to be heavy enough for deer sized game?

[Toxophilite]

Killdeer, ya just said it ALL!

[kyhuntertoo]

just put the 2016 on the grain scale and it is exactly 500 with the 145 points.  so technically i guess i'm okay. i really don't want to shoot those gold tips......they're 7 bucks a piece.

[Lefty]

No offense to anyone that offered advice above, but I would forget about arrow tuning, barshafting, and where the arrow is hitting the target for right now.  I would recommended getting close to a target and develop good form first.  Think draw, proper alignment, solid anchor, back tension, smooth release, and followthru.  Without developing consistant form first, you will create bad habits that will haunt you the rest of your shooting life and you will not be able to rely on what a bareshaft is telling you when you are trying to tune.  I would stick with that 2016 to start with.  At 29" and 145 grain point, it is probably the closest out of the box tune, of the arrows you listed.  After you have developed your form you can look into fine tuning some other arrows to you bow.  JMHO. Good luck, practice good form, stop when you are tired, don't get overly frustrated, remember Rome wasn't built in a day, set realistic goals, and most importantly remember it is suppose to be fun!

[Basic Instinct]

I would go with what Killdeer said.  Get yourself a few more 2016 and shoot.  I would work on form and release, getting it down the best you can before tuning. If your not getting a consistant anchor point/release you will have a hard time getting them to shoot the same for tuning. 2018's are a little heavier and would be close to your spine (depends on length and point weight) if weight of arrow is an issue with you. Just my 2 cents worth.

[Lefty]

Killie,
  Us Postal folks most think alike, although you are much faster in the typing department!
Chris

[BigArcher]

From my experience, different shafts can all be shot from the same bow.  And hit fairly close to each other.  When you shoot you will see when you have a smooth flying arrow.  That means it came off of the bow cleanly.  It may go a touch left or right ,high or low, but will still fly well.
If you have the option put broadheads on and shoot.  That really shows off the problems in bow setup.  Nock point to low is a common problem.
This is not as complicated as it would seem. Right nock height, good loose, decent bow grip and you should be shooting just fine.

BigArcher

Watch the arrow
Don't change anything shot to shot.