If you are working with TD limbs you can use long lean wedges like Crooked Stic is describing 10-11" length. Tip of wedge fades to tip of tip wedge fades should be around 10-11" . THAT is what i call the working section..... The distance between the two fade tips on wedges top and bottom.
The power lams are typically used on one piece or two pc bows unless you are using real short wedges.. On those i run about 5" past the riser fades. Example: 20" tip to tip of riser fades. 30" double ended PW on the back of the riser. 8'' tip wedge going into the form, finished tip wedge about 5-6" down from the tip notch location.
The cool part about running long lean wedges and tip wedges is that you can shift them up or down and lengthen the working portion to accommodate longer or shorter draw lengths..... Two identical sets of Med length limbs will have different stacking points between a 10" WL or an 11" WL space between the fade tips.....
Of course your mileage will vary depending on forward taper rate, wedge taper rates, and TW taper rate.
I like an .001 forward taper on my RC limbs, 12" milled wedges that go into the form with a .25-.30 to nothing taper in 12".
My tip wedges are milled at 8" length from about.060 to nothing. I shift the stop on the form for wedge location, wedge length, and limb length trying to keep the tip notch located at the same location on the hook.
The length of the glass at the limb tips going into the form can change your tip wedge location. Typically i use 30" glass and lams for all my TD bows except the aftermarket Bare limbs, and cut off both ends for finished length... Those Bare limbs have much shorter funky wedges, and only take 27" glass. I also use a shorter tip wedge on those limbs...
Hopefully this input will help you.... Kirk